All Forum Posts by: Adam Abdel-Hafez

I agree with others, you really need an engineer to sign off on this. By doing so, you may be able to get by with maybe 3 Lvl's and no post in the middle. A 24' span is a very long span especially for a inexperienced person. I can recommend an engineering company in Atlanta if needed

I agree completely with Rick Baggenstoss , at this point it's almost impossible to find a good deal in 30310. But 30318 and 30314 are coming up (30318 is a huge zip code so obviously some it has been popular for years) but the collier heights area and anything along mlk has gotten better as well as the north part of 30318 below riverside and west of Howell station area. The area in between (Bankhead, etc) is still pretty rough though. Going off of what Rick said, rehabbing a 1970's ranch is soooo much easier than a 1920's historic home that has not been maintained. So if you get those 100 year old homes, I think you need to be looking at ARV's of 250+

I work a lot on older homes including 100 yr old homes. If you have copper water lines your house is probably not 100 yrs old or you have it confused for galvanized. Typically I always replace all supply lines and shut off valves throughout any house I do. I assess plumbing and see what needs to be done. Typically you have to replace a few sections here or there on the water and/or sewer line. If you have galvanized pipe you need to replace it, if it is copper and no leaks then I would leave it. For electrical, I would not just upgrade the service just because it is old. In 100 yr old homes you will probably have knob and tube wiring which needs to be rewired and you also need to check the condition of the wiring. If the panel is 100amp service, but the wiring has been derated to 80amp, then it won't be able to handle the AC, fridge, stove, water heater, etc all running at the same time. So it's more of a case by case basis and assessing the condition of each component rather than a general rule of thumb of always replacing no matter what.

Tony Castronovo like others have stated it really depends on the price and how extensive the damage is. If termites are on joists then it typically isn't TOO terrible (sistering joists, jacking up floor, etc). But, if you have joists, main support beams, and posts then it could end up being a tear down. Now, I would say 9 times out of 10 it is not that severe, it is usually only that bad if the house has been abandoned for years.

You are also looking at roughly $75/sqft on the rehab. If you managed the subs yourself I would say a rebuild would probably be worth it, but hiring a GC I don't see you getting it for less than $110/sqft and that's for a 2300+sqft house.

Brandon Davis I know it didn't work out with us on that one due to my time constraint but I know of a good builder that I could recommend to you. Not sure if he works in that area, but it may be worth a shot. Contact Gabe at Citiside Construction and he should be able to help you.

Are you just replacing the roof or are you replacing/installing all of the soffit, fascia, and gutters? Yes if you are just replacing the roof then you should be around the $5k mark for a 1400sqft house, but if you are replacing/installing all new gutters, soffit, and fascia it will be higher for sure.

Joshua King depending on what the house looks like of course, it may be tough to do all of that within your price range you are looking at. Just the roof, gutters, soffit, and fascia will be probably $10k if you are fully replacing the roof and not doing a layover, installing gutters, soffit, and fascia. At that price point and for a rental I wouldn't install fascia and soffit, just connect the gutters to the exposed rafters. Depending on how you do the shower as well, that could get costly (tile walls, tile pan, curb, etc). I am not sure how much experience you have with renovations, but obviously the level of finish dictates how much this will cost greatly.

Patti Robertson I don't really remember any situation where I have refilled a system twice. If the first leak seal doesn't work then usually that means there are multiple leaks, the compressor is bad, the coil is bad, etc and you have to do a more drastic repair/replacement. Ericka Grant I have HVAC guys I use regularly. I usually charge around $60-70/lb of freon and when we do a leak seal it is usually 1 or 2 lb we have to install plus sealing the leak.

It's typically costs me around $300 to do a leak seal and add freon. I do not think that is any reason to replace a unit/system. Even if it's an R22 system, on a rental if it's not broke then don't fix it. Who knows, the system may last another 5-10 years