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All Forum Posts by: Sean McKee

Sean McKee has started 27 posts and replied 221 times.

Post: Tenant Broke his lease without paying the buy out fee

Sean McKeePosted
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Chicago, IL
  • Posts 221
  • Votes 155
Quote from @Corey G.:
Quote from @Sean McKee:
Quote from @Corey G.:

Tenant informed me he wanted to move out about 6 months into his second year (about 30 days ago). He thought he went month to month after the first year but never informed me of it (which is required in writing) and I have the lease set to renew for another 12 months automatically written into the lease. Well I'm pretty sure he just moved out anyways without paying the buy out fee (2 months rent pretty much). I haven't had these terms written into my lease very long and the tenant that broke the lease previously went ahead and paid it. What is the suggested process for this? I'm very familiar with serving notice for things like late fees/evictions but never have tried to collect on this. Technically he's late on the June rent now as well. Should I serve a late notice and then eviction and add the fees up at the eviction hearing or is thttps://www.biggerpockets.com/forums/52/topics/1245957-tenan...here a different/better way to do this? 

 Sorry to hear this. If they moved out it's no longer an eviction. As long as your lease is iron clad and you have reviewed your local laws, you might have a case to go after the rent/fees owed. 

You could send him to a collection agency for the amount owed after you deduct the security deposit. This would allow you to credit report it. Some charge fees to do this. I've done it once, but for a few thousand dollars. Did not get the money back, but the tenant did get a negative mark on their credit.

Front Lobby, is a credit reporting site. It's relatively affordable, but you can only report late rent and late fees(fines and other damages you need a judgement) .They also have to be 30 days past due. So if you rent it within 30 days and keep the security deposit you probably won't be able to report him. If it takes you a few months, then you probably could depending on how your lease is worded. Make sure you double check with any credit reporting agency, to stay on the right side of the law. I always error on the side of caution. Credit reporting is good way to keep some people in line with the terms.

This happens all the time, especially in lower end markets. There's not much you can do besides credit report or collection agencies. Small claims court is not worth it unless it's more than 10k or you are absolutely sure they would pay up if you got a judgement. I've gone the small claims court way a couple times, it's not easy and it's not cheap.

I know your pissed, but this is part of the game.... 

I'm not super pissed or anything, it's mostly just that I'm strict with rules and I expect them to be followed so I like to hold people accountable to that. If you are saying that fees require a judgement, then how would you go about getting a judgement in the case that someone had already moved out or are other companies more lenient with their requirements? 

 The judgment is much harder. I’m going after a contractor for 3k he ran off with. This is mostly to prove a point. I have a lawyer and we are working on “trying” to serve him. We don’t exactly know where he lives. So we did a skip trace and might have located him. If we managed to Serve him, then we can go to court and get a judgement. However , he still probably won’t pay, but at least it hits his record. You would have to follow a similar process: start a small claims case with your local court, work on finding and serving the individual, and then get a judgement.

You can go after him in court, but it’s likely not going to be worth it. It’s a major pain. 

I would suggest the credit reporting/collection agency route. It would be cheaper. You just need the tenants DOB and their last known address. Collection Agency would likely allow you to report the damages from him breaking the lease, just not the credit reporting agency

Post: Tenant Broke his lease without paying the buy out fee

Sean McKeePosted
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Chicago, IL
  • Posts 221
  • Votes 155
Quote from @Corey G.:

Tenant informed me he wanted to move out about 6 months into his second year (about 30 days ago). He thought he went month to month after the first year but never informed me of it (which is required in writing) and I have the lease set to renew for another 12 months automatically written into the lease. Well I'm pretty sure he just moved out anyways without paying the buy out fee (2 months rent pretty much). I haven't had these terms written into my lease very long and the tenant that broke the lease previously went ahead and paid it. What is the suggested process for this? I'm very familiar with serving notice for things like late fees/evictions but never have tried to collect on this. Technically he's late on the June rent now as well. Should I serve a late notice and then eviction and add the fees up at the eviction hearing or is thttps://www.biggerpockets.com/forums/52/topics/1245957-tenan...here a different/better way to do this? 

 Sorry to hear this. If they moved out it's no longer an eviction. As long as your lease is iron clad and you have reviewed your local laws, you might have a case to go after the rent/fees owed. 

You could send him to a collection agency for the amount owed after you deduct the security deposit. This would allow you to credit report it. Some charge fees to do this. I've done it once, but for a few thousand dollars. Did not get the money back, but the tenant did get a negative mark on their credit.

Front Lobby, is a credit reporting site. It's relatively affordable, but you can only report late rent and late fees(fines and other damages you need a judgement) .They also have to be 30 days past due. So if you rent it within 30 days and keep the security deposit you probably won't be able to report him. If it takes you a few months, then you probably could depending on how your lease is worded. Make sure you double check with any credit reporting agency, to stay on the right side of the law. I always error on the side of caution. Credit reporting is good way to keep some people in line with the terms.

This happens all the time, especially in lower end markets. There's not much you can do besides credit report or collection agencies. Small claims court is not worth it unless it's more than 10k or you are absolutely sure they would pay up if you got a judgement. I've gone the small claims court way a couple times, it's not easy and it's not cheap.

I know your pissed, but this is part of the game....

Post: Turned over unit - Prospective tenants are not happy that the laundry not in the unit

Sean McKeePosted
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Chicago, IL
  • Posts 221
  • Votes 155
Quote from @Mike A.:

After five years, we removed a tenant (via non-renewal of lease). They moved out and turned over the unit. Since it was never turned over under our ownership, we gutted the bathroom (needed it), redid the cabinets, countertop, and all three bedrooms. It's been on Zillow for about six weeks (most inexpensive in the neighborhood), and the # 1 comment we have is they do not like that the washing machine and dyers are coin-op and that they are in the basement. It's a four unit building, so the most economical way to install the washer and dryer was in the unit. There are also hook-ups in the basement for other tenants to connect theirs if they wish. I was thinking on placing a combo washer/dryer in the kitchen, there is a small space, but we have to run water lines from the basement and a drain hose. We really didn't want to do this, but we are concerned that it's taking a long time to fill. We filled a 1-bedroom in 3 weeks last fall. That was listed at $2k, and this is listed at $2.7k (again, a 3 bedroom). A combo washer/dryer would be around $1400, and a plumber to run the lines probably another $1200 or so. We've already spent around $15k in the reno with supplies (trust when I say the unit needed it.

Any suggestions?


 This is all market dependent. It sounds like You might be in an area where this is expected. What are other landlords doing?

I installed on site laundry in the basement, only to have tenants never use it and go to the laundry mat instead because they could do more volume. In that area I stopped providing laundry all together.


Before spending thousands of dollars, deep dive in your market and figure out what is required. I don’t know about your market specifically, but other factors could be contributing to the long turn time(ie. higher vacancy market)

Post: Prices don’t make sense in Chicago?

Sean McKeePosted
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Chicago, IL
  • Posts 221
  • Votes 155
Quote from @Russell Brazil:

Break even at 20% would be a dream in the major metro areas on the coasts. Takes 45% in most of those cities to break even. 


 Do you mean 20% down payment?

Post: Prices don’t make sense in Chicago?

Sean McKeePosted
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Chicago, IL
  • Posts 221
  • Votes 155
Quote from @John Warren:

@Boris Le this is undoubtedly one of the most challenging times since I got my license for investors to enter the market. There definitely are still deals, but they tend to go to the more full-time folks who have the knowledge and experience. With that said, I am a big believer in buying in your back yard. Where do you live now? Focus there and double down. I wouldn't spread out to a new part of the city or suburbs where you don't know the area. 

I most recently purchased a building in Berwyn in 2024 and now a value-add deal in Cicero in 2025. I have stayed in the same areas where I started so my local market knowledge continued to improve, and my competitive advantage stays strong. 


 John are you finding cash flow in Berwyn/Cicero?

Post: Deal Diary: Flip $130k to $450k - 2 unit in Little Village Chicago

Sean McKeePosted
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Chicago, IL
  • Posts 221
  • Votes 155
Quote from @Henry Lazerow:

Before:

After: 

When we bought the building, it had a tenant who needed to be evicted with big nasty dogs. We ended up paying him $2500 to leave, as did not want to wait the whole 8 months for an eviction.

Purchase: $135k

Sold: $450k. Original expected ARV was $400k. Redfin has Little Village growth at 10.6% in last 12 months so we got lucky on that end and our ARV was very accurate prior to the last 12 months of appreciation. Ran MLS comps to determine.

Rehab costs: Prefer not to share on a public forum.

Financing: Did a 25% down rehab loan that was at 9% and 2.5 points from a local bank. I also used my HELOC from another property for most of the downpayment so really did the deal with close to $0 out of pocket. My heloc is at 8.5%.

Scope of rehab: Kitchens/baths/flooring/paint. The basics to make it nice and rent ready, kept unit layouts the same. Some new windows, gutters, new garage door, motor, etc. Everything was beat up from decades of being a rental prior. 

We rented the 3/1 garden unit for $1720. I have the top unit 3/2 as a rental listing now from the new owner and have had a ton of inquiries 30+ for $2250. Rents in Little Village have gone WAY up especially if you do a nice rehab. A few years ago I would never of imagined 2 units at nearly half a million and demand for rentals going over $2000+ in Little Village. Probably will be over $500k next year, Brighton Park 2 units (neighborhood next over) are already now breaking $500k mark. The whole SW side is gentrifying rapidly. Looking at a 6 unit in area now for the my next one, this one a BRRR to hold onto long term.


Great job! Little Village is nice rental market, I have a 4 unit there.


out of curiosity what part of little village? Closer to Pilsen?

Post: Need Help Estimating Rehab Costs

Sean McKeePosted
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Chicago, IL
  • Posts 221
  • Votes 155
Quote from @Dahtanun Combest:

Hello, I'm new and I plan on doing fix and flips in Chicago's South Suburbs. I'm trying to figure out what Rehab prices (material/labor) should I expect to pay as an investor and still be profitable.I'm focusing on SFH maybe 900-1,800 sqft. For example, how much should a roof cost? How much for single pane windows?How much for double pane windows? How much for plumbing?How much for electrical? How much for HVAC? How much for siding?How much to renovate a garage? How much for a nice updated bathroom? And how much for a nice updated kitchen.(nothing Super crazy just nice,updated and modern. It seems that most contractors that I speak with are all over the place with these prices so I'm trying to get a general guide post for this market. Square footage approach eample:Light rehab sqft? Moderate rehab sqft? Heavy rehab sqft?(scope of work for each of those categories included please)would help a lot. Thanks!

There a lot a great advice so far. Also , try J Scott’s The Book On Estimating Rehab costs. It’s a great start to give you an idea. Between this and other resources you can make an offer to get started.

During the inspection phase have GC walkthrough with you and give a detailed estimate. This might cost you a several hundred dollars, but it’s well worth it. Unless you do volume, there’s a low chance you’ll be up to date on all the various codes and material/labor cost. I’m in the same boat and involve a GC for the final cost estimates.

The number one protection from cost overruns is the price you pay, something always comes up you aren’t expecting. Sometimes small and sometimes major.


Post: What kind of flooring should I use for a rental

Sean McKeePosted
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Chicago, IL
  • Posts 221
  • Votes 155
Quote from @Alec Jacobs:

I am a newbie real estate investor and I am doing a lot of the rehab myself and I was wondering what type of flooring long term rental investors use?

Initially I wanted to use vinyl snap together flooring since it is pretty durable and I have worked with it before. The downside is it would take a while to install it myself and I think it would be a more expensive option. I have kinda been against installing carpet but it might be an easier and cheaper alternative.

I would love any and all thoughts. Thank you!


 If you have class C rentals, I like to use Traffic master Grip Strip Water Resistant Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring. It's like 1.99 per SQFT. Instead of the snap it has an adhesive. It's easy to install and cut. If installed properly it can take beating and it's water resistant. It's pretty easy to switch out pieces that do get damaged.

If installed improperly(I'm the one that installed it), gaps will start to form. But even then for the lower tier market it's still fine. It hasn't buckled up.

With the exception of the one unit I installed, it's held up pretty well.

Post: FAILED Direct Mailing Campaign (sort of)

Sean McKeePosted
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Chicago, IL
  • Posts 221
  • Votes 155
Quote from @Robert Portal:

Speaking from a personal standpoint here as I get several mailers each month about my properties. They all have the same look and feel and I'll discard them right away. Unfortunately, you have to hit them at the 'right time' but that's impossible to do unless they're in a difficult situation and want to get rid of the asset. 


 I get a number to and most end up in the trash. I got lucky and did reach the owner right when he wanted to sell. He was a burned out landlord and tired of it.

What continues to draw me to direct mail is the ability to limit competition. In this case I had the best mail piece, I was the best negotiator, I had the best terms, etc, because I was literally the only other investor involved. No one else had reached him.

On the MLS and other mediums I'm competing with people that are more experienced, have superior marketing, can offer cash, can offer better terms, and can close faster.

Post: FAILED Direct Mailing Campaign (sort of)

Sean McKeePosted
  • Rental Property Investor
  • Chicago, IL
  • Posts 221
  • Votes 155
Quote from @James Hamling:

Mailers as a mono-action to lead creation is ridiculous, and this form of marketing has never been designed for such any more than a billboard is for getting "leads". 

Mailers is more-so a conditioning action. 

Could one get a call from "a" mailer, sure, but that's not the consumer psychology of it. 

Back in the day, all these tenant's of such were just "known", and followed, because we never had the internet to rely upon. So we would strategically hit a location with a mailer, that than the call-room would start hitting on 2 days later. And as call center worked the area, 2-3 additional mailers went out. 

Cold-calling is all but a dead-art, but the principles remain. 

Using mailers, in an ascending manner, in concert with conversion based marketing, that's what drives up lead gen to hit those 3,4% marks. 

Your mailers have to be conditioning based, referencing back to the converting portion (website / click funnel). And done in strategic waves. Not 1 but 3, 4 etc.. 

And when done in concert with other mediums, be it billboards, radio, whatever creating a saturation marketing strategy, that's how leads are made. 

But problem is too many think they can do just 1 action of the marketing strategy and like magic leads appear, that's gonna be a setup for failure. 

So if viewing mailers as the marketing strategy, your doing it wrong. It's a piece of the puzzle, 1 piece, so a person needs that whole to make that 1 piece most effective. 

In general, a click-funnel, a call center # (because needs to be answered 24-7), an ascending series to develop a lead in that click-funnel, and a series of mailers that "stack-up" on the messaging of each other. 


 Excellent advice. I hadn't really thought of trying to combine other mediums of advertisement.