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All Forum Posts by: Jeff Lipple

Jeff Lipple has started 25 posts and replied 125 times.

Post: Just started in Southeast Michigan (and Kalamazoo, MI)

Jeff LipplePosted
  • Wholesaler
  • Utica, MI
  • Posts 133
  • Votes 36

Thanks @Ned Carey @John Knappmann

@Marco Santarelli &

@Chris Adams Years of browsing and chatting on the twoplustwo forums (check them out if you haven't) brought me a ton of knowledge and made me a lot of money, I know that won't compare to what I learn here. It's suprising how many decision I make in life that I relate back to poker. Every situation seems to have pot odds and +EV that can be analyzed :)

@Tim Barry

Deciding Roth vs Traditional comes down to taxes.

Example of someone who might want to do Traditional contribtions:

Joe - 59 years old further along in his career making more money in a higher tax bracket. Joe wants to go in pretax because he is in a high bracket right now and when he retires next year he knows his taxable income is going to drop off because he's no longer working. So he wants to avoid his 25% tax bracket when putting the money in, because he's much happier paying the 10% tax bracket when he takes it out. So someone that believes they will be in a lower bracket when they take the money out and chances are they'll retire before the politicians make any drastic tax changes.

Example of someone who might want to do Roth contributions:

Billy - 20 years old making minimum wage. Billy doesn't mind the money going in after tax. He's only in the 10% bracket right now and has no idea what bracket he'll be in when he wants to take the money out, but is guessing it will be more than 10%. So someone that believes they will be in a higher bracket when they take the money out OR they realize that the politicians like to change taxes on us over time and we really don't know what taxes will look like in 5, 10, 20, 40 years so I'd rather just get it out of the way now and never have to think about it again.

They are both tax advantaged accounts so either are good things to be putting money into. There are other differences that you'll want to think about too, but that gives you somewhat of a thought process to have on how you want your money taxed (because Uncle Sam is taking his cut at one point or another).

Whenever you get a match you always need to do that to get free money. No matter what your tax situation never pass on free money. You said you're currently maxing your 401(k) and then some into IRA, so you're adding more than $17,500 into your retirement accounts. The max for 2013 is $17,500 in 401(k) and $5,500 in IRA's. So unless you make $290k a year 6% won't max out your 401(k). If you make $75k for example you can do 6% to get the match, which would be $4,500 into 401(k). Max out Roth putting in $5,500, and now you're up to $10k in retirement accounts. Since you already do over $17,500 you have to figure out where to put the remaining $7,500+. Here's where you'll want to go back to the examples above and talk with a tax professional. It's your tax persons job to make sure you never pay more in taxes than you have to. You can also compare fees and expenses between your 401(k) and IRA and weigh out any other pros and cons. IRA's can be done dirt cheap through something like Scott Trade and by putting money into an index fund with very minimal expense ratios. That's not for everyone though, some people prefer 401(k) even though they're more expensive because maybe they have a really helpful rep like me that talks them out of selling off all their stock when the markets at the bottom, or don't have the time or interest in taking care of it themselves or like that it's done right out of payroll because they know realistically they won't be deligent enough to regularly contribute on their own, or whatever...

Just like you diversify between stocks and bonds and different funds, it's not a bad idea to diversify between before and after tax money. That way when you retire you can decide on what pool of money to take out of, the Roth or Traditional. Also Traditional the IRS will make you start taking money out after age 70 where Roth you can leave in their forever or pass on to your heirs or favorite charity.

Well hopefully this answers your questions, unfortunately usually the answer always comes down to it depends, but CPA should be the one that gives the answers for your specific situation because the question between Roth and Traditional comes down to taxes and it's their job to make sure you pay the least amount possible.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Disclaimer: Always talk to a trusted licensed professional about any tax and investment questions. The above is just the 2 cents of a random guy on a real estate forum and not a guaranteed answer or solution :)

Post: Mortgage note or cash?

Jeff LipplePosted
  • Wholesaler
  • Utica, MI
  • Posts 133
  • Votes 36
What would be typical minimum, 50k?

Post: Mortgage note or cash?

Jeff LipplePosted
  • Wholesaler
  • Utica, MI
  • Posts 133
  • Votes 36
The broker I spoke with who is also an investor said to have my parents or someone pay the 18k and then have a 2 month history of making mortgage payments to them (as opposed using the unsecured debt to pay for everything myself) and then would be able to refi. Now that you mention it 25k is a very low amount. I'm just going off what the broker said I could do. He said as long as there is record of me making mortgage payments to someone I could do a refi in about 2 months as opposed to waiting a year to do a cash out refi...

Post: Mortgage note or cash?

Jeff LipplePosted
  • Wholesaler
  • Utica, MI
  • Posts 133
  • Votes 36
I'm a first time investor. I'm buying a property for 25k 7k cash 18k unsecured loan that I'll want to refi. I was told I should have the 18k paid by certified check coming from my parents so that I can start making payments to them as a mortgage on the property so that I can refi in 30 days where if I pay the full 25k myself I would have to wait a year to do a cash out refi. I know this is elementary just want some input or suggestions to make sure I set this deal up best way possible. Thanks!

Post: Just started in Southeast Michigan (and Kalamazoo, MI)

Jeff LipplePosted
  • Wholesaler
  • Utica, MI
  • Posts 133
  • Votes 36

hi everyone,

Glad to join such an awesome community and grateful for everything I've already learned here on BP.

I am a 401(k) consultant and MBA student with a concentration in finance.

I enjoy traveling, boating, hunting and playing poker.

Because I travel a lot for work and am going to school, I've been looking for turn key rentals that I will have managed. I'd like to do that until I can aquire enough rentals where I can do REI full time and start managing my properties and being more hands on to become more profitable. Just bought my first rental from a friend and fellow investor for $25k turn key that rents for $750 a month.. Looking forward to learning more and contributing. I'm new to the REI game, but feel free to ask me questions about your 401(k), mutual funds etc for now until I have more knowledge to bring to the table on REI

My rental is in Kalamazoo, MI. I'm currently looking for properties in oakland and macomb county MI