All Forum Posts by: Keith Lewis

Hi Thomas.

First off totally agree with Bob O. on using Wood of any type. Luxury vinyl is the bigger and better option. The installation is the key. There are click locks that install like laminate but are quite water resistant(water proof except at the seams and then it depends on how well it was installed. Don't be fooled by sellers telling you it can be taken apart and repaired, as you'll do more damage than good. A professional can repair a plank in place if it's really needed. Glue down plank works well but as with all hard surface installs in multi tenant units you have to be concerned regarding sound proofing on second floors and up (many cities now have ordinances so check). Don't buy anything under a 3mm thick product(4 mm is better) and under a 12 mil wearlayer. It also needs to have a scratch resistant surface like Aluminum Oxide or Ceramic Bead. Hope that helps.

please check to make sure the local building ordinance doesn't require any additional sound proofing even on glue down.

 Normally I would agree with you especially on a personal level for a home or a better quality tenant that is one to two people. Try that in Metro Detroit where you have two to three adults and 2+ kids and I don't believe that's feasible. Nice job on the floor by the way.

Sorry it took so long to get back to you Kurt. While both options are good ones, the glue down has the advantage of it's quieter to walk on especially when the install is above ground level unless you add the cost of an acoustical pad, which may be a local ordinance requirement. Glue down is not as easy to install as James stated based on spreading glue BUT click lock can have learning curve for the DIY owner who really is not handy. Also don't be fooled by the comment that if you damage a piece you can just take it apart and replace it. You will damage more of the floor doing that as well as taking a chance of loosening a perfectly well install product. There are methods to replace the click lock board in place but only a professional should do it for you. I myself prefer glue down in my own home but I do have click lock in the bedroom. There are newer products not available at the box stores that have releasable adhesives attached to the LVT, you'd have to check with your local flooring dealers. If you choose to go the glue down method you will find the newer adhesives easier to work with for the DIY crowd as most are pressure sensitive. I guess in the end I'm saying go for a product that has at least a 12mil wearlayer AND a scratch resistant finish for a longer life, no recycled content, no ortho pthalates. ALL LVT is waterproof. It's the seams that are water RESISTANT. Hope that helps

The higher end of the Cortec line I believe addresses that but check the specs to be sure. It's more mid range to higher priced, but you get what you pay for in flooring. Another small company has come out with a product called Hardcore which says it's hot pressed backer can do all that and more but it's only available in Michigan at this time. I have heard that other manufacturers will be making similar products in the up coming year. For now the best bet is to put up drapes to block the sun at the hottest parts of the day for most products to perform to their best.

 Not Telegraph means it will not show the imperfections of the subfloor. WPC or any LVT 3mm or over typically won't. Superior scratch resistance sounds like a finish but you should ask if it has one not just a wearlayer. ALL LVT is formaldehyde free as that chemical is mainly used in wood floors only. 

Dealing with retailers for over thirty years I tend to overwhelm the end user with more info than they really need. Sorry about that.

Southwind started out as a carpet supplier and in the last few years has gotten into importing LVT and WPC from overseas. So let's just go through the specs.  All LVT is waterproof itself; the locking system where they come together is water resistant based on the install. Sometimes the planks don't lock 100% but they do enough to keep all but standing water(like a pipe leak) from becoming a problem. Uniclic and Virgin Vinyl are good facets as is being the Ortho Phthalates free. the 20 mil wearlayer is considered commercial but I didn't see in your comments where it had a scratch resistant FINISH which is very important. Antimicrobial really means nothing for you that's something for medical installs and basically can be duplicated with a good cleaner. WPC stands for WOOD PLASTIC COMPOSITE kinda like decking material. That is the backer of the plank, the top is about a 1.5 mm thick vinyl tile glued to the backer. This is basically Wood Laminates answer to their swelling from water hence the waterproof tag. As long as you don't have any large picture windows or sliding glass doors which in the summer can intensely heat the floor and possibly distort it the price seems about right for the material. I definitely recommend floor protectors for heavy furniture and chairs so the chance of denting is reduced( this is something for most vinyls). The price seems fair for that material.

Do you like the 9 inch wide plank look? That is a big reason to buy or not. Less seams for sure. Quicker to install. But depending who your client is if they are looking for realism 6 inch or less. 

So there's the pros and cons.

Hi there, might be coming late to the discussion. Hard surface is normally the way to go to keep your long term costs down. You may need carpet or soundproofing for second floor residences depending on your ordinances. I normally prefer the LVT products for overall durability with the following caveats: NEVER purchase anything with an overall thickness of 2mm. It will show every bump and lump in the subfloor and make the place look cheap. Stay at least at 3mm, 4mm if you have the budget. ALWAYS make sure your LVT has a FINISH over the wearlayer of Alunminum Oxide or Ceramic Bead for scratching resistantance; nothing is bullet proof but it helps tremendously. Make sure the product is virgin vinyl and not recycled content as there are pitfalls too numerous to mention regarding such products. Finally if you're going to using a Click Lock type product find one with the Unilin locking system, they seems to have a better track record for installing easier and staying together. Hope that helps. Been in the industry for thirty, so post me if you have more questions 

I note that you said this rental is going retail after the rehab so it's really not a rental but a home. If this is correct I would spend the extra money and correct the hardwood.

LVT is the way to go. Styles are available in wood plank look, stone look with grout(that self seals in 24 hours), floating click locks that are super water resistant( of course the tile is waterproof it's vinyl...seams are the issue) there's even one click lock that you can grout. Here's the Keys: nothing under a 3mm thick product, if you can afford 4mm or better do it. Wear layer should be 12 mils ( for those of you that don't know a mil is the thickness of a piece of paper) but 20 + is actually commercially rated. Also make sure you have a scratch resistant FINISH, Aluminium Oxide, Ceramic bead etc. If you are gluing it down I recommend using an acrylic adhesive which has more strength. Good Luck