All Forum Posts by: Keith Lewis

I note that you didn't indicate the thickness of the product. The engineered products at the box stores can start as thin as 5/16 and it that is what you bought it unfortunately explains a lot of the issues you're having. I seen it there and honestly wouldn't use it in my dog's house. 3/8" is really the minimum thickness and even that should have an AO finish on the product. 1/2" can be bought at a reasonable price if you take the time to shop around and aren't too picky on shade. You could try to put a top coat on as long as you use something with at least a 25% solids content. Stick with a hardwood like oak or better hickory.

Just be aware that if you apply an oil based KILZ then you will need to cover it with another subfloor because if you try to adher anything to that floor the oil based products will contaminate flooring adhesives. KILZ does make a water based products that might be a better choice.

I've read through many of the posts here. Maintenance seems to be the main concern. There are LVT's that come in stone looks that can be grouted and the better ones are very realistic. The grout you use to do them with is acrylic,  self seals against staining, and is dry and ready for clean up within 1.5 to 3 hours depending on the brand. The tiles (by many manufacturers) are a limestone composite, very durable and usually come in 16 x 16 but cqan be as large as a 12 x 24 . You want to make sure they have either an aluminum oxide or ceramic bead finish for scratch resistance. They should be no thinner than 3mm but 4mm is better ans usually commercial rated as well.

 Roy, I note that you're located in the Canadian market. I know that your building codes over there far exceed a lot of our over here. In the Detroit market, which is an older market the second situation you mentioned is more likely

You mentioned now that it's on a 2nd floor. Laminate is a very poor choice for a second floor install if you don't invest in an underlayment that is sound deadening. Cheap foam won't cut it and all you'll get in complaints about noisy neighbors upstairs. 

Sheet vinyl is a cheap choice that you will end up replacing with every move out. It tears too easy and NO one uses the proper method to  move things across it so it swells up and cuts.

Luxury vinyl planks can be got at various price ranges and contrary to a comment above the are LVT click locks that are residential grade and cost effective. They don't require a pad and don't have that hollow sound

Another thing about wood laminate is the formaldehyde issue in regards to LL.( Google it if you want more info) Also wood laminates are not water resistant and can swell if water is left on them for any time period. 

There are options that will last through  more than one client. Check with a Menards in your area and see if they have any vinyl wood look plank left in their closeout section.

First off, get a moisture meter and get a reading off your slabs. Read in various locations but not near the furnace as it will always show dry. Since you said you need to use a leveler realize that you are putting moisture back into the concrete and it may take weeks for it to wick out. You'll need to take moisture meter readings after the leveler has dried.

A LVT click lock floor would be your best choice;something that floats over the floor, doesn't require adhesive and isn't affected by moisture. I wouldn't go less than a 4mm in thickness as it seems you have level issue with the floor and that thickness will handle it best. Get one with either an AO finish or a ceramic bead finish for scratch resistance. If you can find one with a Unilin locking system it tends to hold better than others. They make these in wood and stone looks.

GOOD LUCK

Mary,

I would recommend staying away from anything less that a 3mm plank. It will tend to show the imperfections in your subfloor. A 2.5 would work if it has a good finish(for scratch resistance such as Aluminum Oxide or Ceramic Bead) Grip strip is not the easiest product to work with if you are a beginner. Click lock is pretty easy, no pad needed but you still need to leave a 1/4" around the perimeter and be fairly level on the floor. Get a counter brush to use  when you install and run it down the side of the plank to get debris out of the locking system.

If you have a Menard's in that area see if they have the Evolve plank. It has a releasable adhesive on the back that makes installing it easy. Use a primer for any type of self stick to lock the dirt in place(Glue doesn't stick to dust and never EVER mop the subfloor as it puts moisture back into the wood/concrete that might take days to wick out )

Good Luck