All Forum Posts by: Keith Lewis

Be very careful when considering adjusting the level of a cement slab especially in basement areas. That slope is usually tied to drainage and messing with the slope can lead to the floor's inability to drain should you get a water event. Some think you can build up the drain but agin by reducing the slope it creates other issues.

OK, let's set a few things straight . ALL VINYL IS WATERPROOF>>>>IT'S VINYL!! No INSTALLATION is WATERPROOF. Only water resistant at varying degrees. A Glued down product will seal the floor. BUT a pressure sensitive glue is affected by moisture and heat. Use either a wet set or Hard Set adhesive as a better seal. If water gets to the wall or under the floor from the edge it's an insurance claim. Click Lock systems are only as WATER RESISTANT as the quality of the installation that day. Any little gap leaves room for water  to work it's way through which is why some manufacturers now only offer a 36 hr warranty on standing water. Putting a silicone caulk around the perimeter will help a lot but even then it's water RESISTANT. You could put a couple of coats of floor finish over LVP installations to helps seal the gaps but this is something that has to be maintained. It's not permanent especially with the caustic cleaners the end user uses.. I hope this clears up this waterproof myth. 

Ben if you are thinking of floating vinyl plank then you're right the slope can be an issue. A good grade commercial glue down vinyl plank would conform to the slope. Today's floating floors are too rigid. Get a glue down with at least a 12mil wearlayer( I would prefer 20-22mil) and make sure it have a good scratch resistant finish such as Aluminium Oxide or Ceramic Bead. I would also use a NON pressure sensitive adhesive such as Capitol VA-550 or something equivalent that bonds as a hard set to hold everything down. It's a little more difficult to work with but has the best results. You just have to make sure the glue doesn't skin over before getting the plank in it , similar to a wet set adhesive. A Professional installer would understand this.

Just use the Laminate plank itself but GLUE it to the tread. Then use a metal overlap stairnose for both durability and slip resistance. I also recommend using a stair nosing caulk at the nosing to fill in any gaping and make the nose less likely to break due to wear. You could also do a rubber nosing but since this is college housing I think the metal would be better. I would paint the riser a dark coordinating color. You could glue the laminate to the riser but since STAIR TREAD MOVE....it may be wiser not to. Good Luck.

Okay let's make something very clear. In many states, HD OWNS the company that does their services whether flooring or other things, not all but most. So if they are licensed it's only because of the state they are in such as I know Florida has requirements regarding LLC in the area an installer works.

Regarding their products or any one elses, you should never use a product under a 3mm if you are concerned about appearance because sub 3mm thickness will telegraph unevenness in the subfloor on glue down; under a 4 mm on floating floors of the actual material not including the pad. The wearlayer should be a minimum of 12 mils and it NEEDS a finish coating of an Aluminum Oxide or a Ceramic Bead for scratch resistance not just urethane. Smooth textures tends to scratch easier so look for something with some embossing. Always check to make sure you are getting the same die lot in all the cartons. Also don't be mislead by the waterproof claim. ALL VINYL FLOORS ARE WATERPROOF. ALL INSTALLATIONS ARE WATER RESISTANT. Meaning there is a seam and standing water will finds its way through if left over 24 hours, that's an insurance claim.

Good luck with your project.

Be aware that in the past all LL products contained ortho pthalates plasticizers which were banned in 2010 from children's toys for their connection to Autism. HD waited to withdraw them from their products until 2015. I would recommend Menard's  Designer Image products which consistently have a better performance record.

OK Joel, here's the skinny on the click lock type of LVP. There are three types; the original pure vinyl meaning even the backer is vinyl, the WPC backer type product(Wood Plastic Composite) which is not really a LVP but and engineered product with a 1.5mm tile glued to a rigid backer similar to outdoor deck material and the newest product Rigidcore or SPC(Stone Plastic Composite) which is an extruded material similar to the original but with a ton of limestone in the backer to give it the rigidity of WPC without the issue of WPC such as denting and being noisy unless you put a pad under it or it has one attached(don't buy cork pad go with a dense closed cell polyurethane.

Original CL(click lock) is flexible and will conform to a sloped subfloor like basements, the other two don't and require prep to build up areas which you really don't want to do in a basement. A 4mm product with at least a 12mil wearlayer AND a scratch resistant finish will perform well. WPC work OK on level subfloors but there are issues with the denting and it being able to withstand intense heat like in ultra hot climates.

Rigidcore gives you the rigidity of the WPC with a little flexiblity, AGAIN stay with a 4mm product with a minimum 12 mil wearlayer(20+ mil is better abd commercially rated) but should have either an AO or Ceramic Bead scratch resistant finish. I prefer a Uniline locking system but other are OK too.

The pad under these products does one thing, deaden sound. They DON'T make the floor warmer or easier to walk on since they are only 1 to 1.5 mm thick. 

Lastly this is flooring, you get what you pay for. You can buy cheap and replace more often or spend more and replace less often; it depends on your budget.

Hope this helps you.

Depends on the products. Laminate can be noisy like WPC type products with not attached pad. Laminates cannot easily be repaired. LVT has scratch resistant finishes and are more common in heavy traffic area and are easier to replace should damage occur. Against the modern trend I would recommend a glue down LVT installed with a quality pressure sensitive adhesive. This is an investment. Click lock is for a home owner that will be replace it down the road. You want to avoid that. Get a 3 to 4 mm thick product with a dual coated scratch resistant finish, either AO or ceramic. The wearlayer should be at least 12mil though 20-22mil would be better. All vinyl products are waterproof but a click lock is only as waterproof at the edges as the installer that puts it in. At least the pressure sensitive glue provides a sealer against most household issues short of a major flood with standing water. Hope that helps. In the end you get what you pay for in flooring.

Wouldn't recommend the peel n stick for the bathroom in rentals. Too much humidity and moisture for the pressure sensitive glue on the back of the tile; too easy for glue to fail and don't even think about adding a glue to help it stick. It might work but in my 30 years in the flooring industry the result is usually the two glue contaminate each other and you have a bigger mess. Groutable vinyl tile yes but buy the dry back and glue it down. Use a premixed grout not a powder one. The premix self seals in 24 hours and is easier to clean and repair. Not a fan of laminates as they are moisture resistant now a days but not moisture proof. Get a 4 mm thick click lock vinyl wood look with no less than a 12 mil wear layer and make sure it has either an aluminum oxide or ceramic bead finish for scratch resistance. Anything under a 4 mm would show unevenness of the sub-floor. Try for a ridgidcore click lock not a wpc, much superior if your budget can afford it.