All Forum Posts by: Keith Lewis

Look on Youtube and you will see the method for cutting out the damaged plank and replacing it using a double stick tape for the edges you remove the locking system. SOP.

First check with the guy that did your flooring...many times them have left over partial boxes sitting in their warehouse or garage. That can be replaced with one board. Also considered taking a piece from the closet to repair and carpet the closet if you have to. If you used it in other areas of the home see if you can change the floor there for cheaper. Remember you can put in a transition strip if you use the materials from the hallway and change it. You could also use a coordinating color around the perimeter as an accent to reuse those board. Just giving you some cheaper options.

I have to agree with Scott, though I's prefer a glue down for repairability compared to a floating floor. Get something with at least 12 mil wearlayer, 20-22 if it's in the budget and nothing thinner than 3 mm. The most important aspect is not the wear layer as it is the finish over it. IT needs to be an aluminum oxide or a ceramic bead and two coats if you can get it in your area. This insures a better scratch resistant surface along with getting a textured floor not  a smooth surface. I would do carpet on the stairs and maybe the landing just for cost sake as well as the fact that most click lock floors won't guarantee their floors on stairs( check the installation pdf... it's true). Glue down... use it on the stairs with an overlap nosing not a scribe to help prevent slippage. One of the main reason for using LVP is the continuing battle with bedbugs in rentals, even upscale ones.

Good luck and ask any other questions you need BEFORE getting started.

Usually that is the result of using a cleaner that has a soap base which builds up over tile or using the no rinse cleaner(no such thing) or using one of the wet swiffer mops which leaves tremendous buildup over time. I once pours undiluted white vinegar on one such and the surface bubbled like acid, but it removed it and after some additional cleaning it was back to new. One gallon of warm water to 1/4 cup white vinegar will maintain most floors BUT YOU MUST GO BACK AND RINSE THE FLOOR, maybe twice to get the dirt that was loosened; this is the part no one does so the dirt is still there and reattaches itself.

Best way to demonstrate this. Look at a used washcloth after it dries. When it was fresh it was nice and soft one use and it's hard as a rock. That's all the soap that is still in the washrag because none of us takes the time to rinse all the soap out. Just think how many gallons of water go through your hair in the shower to get all the soap out, same thing.

Carpeting steps is the cheapest way to go. Hard surface on steps can be slippery but the biggest issue is the cost for labor and trims. ALSO many people don't know this but READ YOUR INSTRUCTIONS, steps may not be covered in the warranty. Carpet and padding definitely are NEVER covered by the maker for steps due to the fact that you only step in the center of a step and it takes too much abuse BUT it's cheaper to replace. Use a thin dense pad, avoids stumbles. While the cap and skirt looks good a waterfall install is much cheaper. If you do go hard surface use a metal stairnose that goes over the front top edge to help[ with slipping.  

Mike,

You've gotten a great collection of information. Here's  some you may not have thought about. BEDBUGS. Still an issue for all landlords. And carpet is a natural nesting area for them. Go hard surface throughout nad let the tenant put down area rugs if they want a softer feel underfoot. The Click lock floating floors have come a long way in the last 9 years. Always go for a ridgidcore/SPC product. You find it superior to the others especially in resistance to denting. A 12 mil wear layer is more than enough for residential BUT make sure it has a quality FINISH over it such as Aluminium Oxide or Ceramic Bead(this is what makes it scratch resistant). It needs either a separate pad or an attached pad if their will be living areas below(for sound proofing). If you get a separate pad make sure it's for LVP/LVT and not for laminate, there is a difference. I don't recommend the drop n lock installation system except for the DIY and inexperienced crowd, get a 2G if you can find one. Don't buy smooth texture it scratches too easy. Personally I'd throw the extra money if you're planning to keep the rental into a glue down LVP, they are easier and cheaper to repair a single damaged plank and you avoid separation between planks from a faulty install which is common. In the bath in stead of ceramic if you want a grouted tile look check out groutable LVT. They use a premixed acrylic grout that self seals in 24 hours and if it discolors it usually just topical, easily cleaned. The box stores, like Menards and the other handle them as well as ones that have attached grouts to avoid the labor cost.

Hope this all helps. Good luck.

LVP is the way to go. BUT you still have to do your due diligence. Installation wise you have the Click Lock or the Glue down. While the Click Lock floating floor may not need a subfloor the ability to easily repair it compared to repairing a glue down may glue down a better choice. More important than anything is the Finish on the product. Don't confuse wearlayer with finish. A wearlayer is the clear coat over the color layer that prevents you from walk off the pattern as you may have seen in peel n stick cheap tiles. For residential a 6 mil would suffice, you're not getting a lot of high traffic but naturally the thicker the better. The Finish is the coating that is put over the wearlayer for scratch resistance. Go with either an Aluminum Oxide or Ceramic Bead finish, 2 coats if you can find it. Cheaper LVP use a urethane finish which is good but not great. Some cheaper products don't use a finish and just rely on the pvc wearlayer which is soft and scratches easily. Also the drop and lock system for floating floor installation is great for the do it yourself person but nearly impossible to take apart without damaging the product so know what you're getting into and good luck

Since the tenant you were kind enough to allow to have a pet is a long time renter I'd say you could stipulate that a tenant has to be in place for say two years with no late payments to qualify. From the sounds of it the ones you have an issue with won't qualify. Set terms and live or die by them.

See if you can find someone that handles SMART cabinets( yes that's the brand name). Better quality lower end cabinets. You can go Kitchen Kompact but the color selection is very low. River Run is also a better grade middle of the road line.