All Forum Posts by: Laureen Youngblood

@Yoann Mamy Randriamihaja   It sounds very exciting!  The range in pricing is pretty consistent with a wide range of qualified/unqualified contractors.  I would pick a few in the middle to middle upper range and call references.  I have a blog post on  finding good contractors.  Characteristics of Good Contractor This might help a little.    Remember - cheaper is usually not better - it can cost you a lot of extra money in the long run.

@Steven J.  It is unclear from your post if the quarter round was specifically listed in the original contract.  If so, you might ask for a reasonable reduction in the cost by agreeing on a change order to the original contract.  If not, then I agree with the comments by Marcus, above.  If he is good and you want to continue to use him, then you now have advance knowledge of what he is willing to do and not do as part of his work.  It might also give you ideas on what types of details need to be included in your contracts.  General descriptions in construction contracts can lead to these types of misunderstandings all the time.  Very specific scopes of work are the only solution.  Communication is key, but making sure everyone is thinking the same thing while talking about the same thing can only be solved by specific descriptions in your scope.  

Your Welcome, @Nancy Brook 

Good to hear they were willing to open up to you.  I can get pretty skeptical when a contractor is not willing to discuss scopes, costs and changes.  

@Nancy Brook

I know its been a while since you posted this, but here is some feedback for future use.  Any contractor worth a darn will be willing to give you an itemized scope and breakdown of their estimate.  Some really great contractors will be willing to give you an open book estimate - that means you get see their costs, overhead charges and profit margins.  They are in the business to make money too and should be willing to show you that...you should also be willing to pay.

Cedar works wonders.  Its good for many reasons and is hard to beat for pest repellant as well as smell.

I would say definitely!  You are still involved in real estate almost every day and have plenty of experience that your input and comments are helpful and insightful.

Also, I am hoping that purchasing a property is not a pre-requisite of being a real estate investor.... I am new, haven't purchases a property (other than my residence) and have been at this for over a year.  I still label myself and introduce myself as a real estate investor because I feel that is what I am doing - making money or not.

If you two aren't real estate investors - then I'm in trouble.

Thanks for all you  do!

Laureen

Welcome! Also from Oregon here. I'm down in the Eugene/Springfield area. BP is one of the best - if not the Best - resources you will find for REI. Good luck.

Laureen

John,

Welcome.  Push Replacement.  Damaged wood fronts and particle board (which is another discussion) can not be repaired to any sufficient degree.  If your contractor/carpenter attempt to repair them then Aristokraft is not responsible to hold up their warranty if you change your mind after the fact.  Don't touch them - take them back - have them replaced.  Because it is the shipper/manufacturer damage then they should expedite the order for you.  I would insist on that.

Cracked particle board is a disaster waiting to happen.  In the future I would stay away from particle board cabinets all together.  All it takes is one leak to completely destroy the structure of your cabinetry. Plywood boxes are the most structurally sound and longest lasting.

I have sold and had installed cabinets, both custom and semi-custom/manufactured for the past 9+ years.  Not holding the manufacturer responsible for delivering damaged cabinets will only hurt you in the long run.

Hope this helps and Good luck!

Happy Holidays

Laureen Youngblood

@Account Closed

Flooring is tricky.  LVT - or Luxury vinyl Tiles/Planks are a perfect long term solution.  However - if the, as mention above - the floor is uneven then you want to get a click together floating version.  It is more expensive than the stick/glue down.  US Floors makes a Coretec LVT flooring that is amazing with waterproof coreboard and cork backing, making it soft, warmer and quiet.  It install easily like laminate.  You ALWAYS - no matter the floor want to put a vapor barrier between the underlayment and the floor material.  For hard surface floors we use an asphalt paper called Aqua bar - its cheap and comes in rolls.  Also the coretec -because its floating - can be replaced in sections - or better yet, pulled up, underlayment/subfloor can be repaired and it can be re-installed because it is waterproof.  Second, - always keep extra boxes of whatever hard surface floor you choose just in case you do need to replace some.

As for carpet - moisture barrier pad under the carpet will GREATLY improve its resistance to pets...and kids...and parties.  It keeps all the moisture/stains/dirt on top of the pad and away from the sub floor so that it can be cleaned out or evaporate up instead of down.

I work in a flooring store and I do this stuff all day long.  Good luck.  And talk with a local store - Home Depot sales people will not necessarily know or care what they are selling you.  If you can talk with two or three local stores before making a choice.

Good Luck

Laureen

@Steve Harber

Welcome to BP from Eugene, OR.  Have fun here it is a great site with lots of amazing people.  Good Hunting!

Laureen