All Forum Posts by: Zach Schwarzmiller

Welcome, Jon,

@Jon Alke@Julie Macd - The exit on that side of the mountains (specifically in the larger cities (Spokane, Tri, Ellensburg, Yakima) has been gaining traction quite rapidly over the past few years - for multifamily anyhow. Initially, there wasn't as much demand on that side of the mountains, but then savvy WA (and outside) investors started learning the stats on growth for that side of the mountains (Tri-Cities in-particular has a very attractive growth story) and have since become more interested. We've seen cap rates dip a bit, but as you mentioned, no where near as low as Seattle. Overall, the multi-family sector still has a high demand. Commercial hasn't quite picked up, and from what I read residential seems to be doing just fine over there (though I don't actively research or play in that world).

Greetings - I have two questions:

1. I am looking to install an affordable trim that is not wood. I really don't want the industrial rubber either. I have seen at Home Depot they have these tile squares that are about 2-3" by 24". I think that would be neat around the house for trim, though it would be much more expensive and time consuming. What have others done for trim when not wanting to use wood? Floor is almost a cherry color refinished concrete (rustic looking).

2. I think the guy refinishing the concrete partially sanded my toilet connection. Is there a simple fix to this? I assume I could get a new one which can fit down into the sewer drain and drill new screws into the concrete; however, I did not see this at Home Depot. Anyone else have to do this and have a good solution?

Thank You!

@ Matthew

@Matthew Paulundefined

 @Hugh Ayles@Jerry Powers

It's worth mentioning, I sleeved the pipe going into the ground in 3 layers of insulation and built a box around the outside of the building which is stuffed with insulation. I did not show a photo of that as you really could not see the fix, it just looks like a box on the side of the unit.

That is what I did - I ran the trench around and cut into the house where it was best to hook into existing plumbing.

@Jim Shepard

 - Thank You. I think that would be a great route to go, but I am too cheap so I ended up just doing it myself. On the plus side, I got a good workout and was able to control the surroundings of my back-fill so this won't happen again. I ran into three separate leaks before I got to the concrete foundation just from old chunks and rock and concrete being in the dirt. Now I have top soil which is 1/3rd sand essentially 6"-1' all around the new poly line - some peace of mind for me, personally. On the other side, when I get to it (vacant doing updates so not such a hurry), I will rent a ditch witch, I am way too sore from digging the 30' trench. 

I have thought about this, and am quite prepared for a natural disaster personally; however, I don't take measures such as earth quake insurance or anything like that. If in 50 years it hasn't happen, how much money would have I spent on earth quake insurance? I did just buy a cabin and because it is quite literally on a mini waterfall / creek with the foundation being large boulders, I will spend the money to upgrade the foundation in the case the earthquake does happen and I am inside, I will hopefully not die. My properties which are on foundations would likely fall off, but probably still be habitable. The main concern would be water; however, I installed all the water lines myself and could fairly easily fix them (though I think the local municipality would have much more issues than myself). If it's that bad, my properties are probably not the biggest concern (in my head). 

Problem Solved:

Okay, I have a thought... I am thinking I am going to abandon the old water line and install new ones. I have a whole bunch of poly left over from my other six meter installs. Outside of both units there is a drain for the relief valve which runs through the interior walls from right nearby where the incoming water shutoff valve is. I am thinking I am going to run poly through the yards to the area where that relief valve is and then saw cut the exterior concrete up to the exterior sheathing and then pop the new line into the unit and run it adjacent to the relief valve back to the main water faucet and connect into that. This would make it so I don't have to mess with any concrete and I would be working with a fresh line. I might even install a new meter while I am at it so the units are individually metered, TBD on that part. 

New question, if I am running the poly to the house, and the house is all plumbed with copper, should I switch to copper at the house or can I continue to run my poly up to the water shutoff through the walls? It would seem that should be okay as it's kind of a nice flexible pipe compared to copper.

Thank You!

 There is no water coming up through floors anywhere, no indication on top at all, unfortunately! I would love to come up through the wall. Does it make sense to run line from meter and drill it upward into the wall? and just run along walls?

Greetings. I was sad to get a call from the City today letting me know my water consumption has doubled for this billing period. I just replaced 6 new water lines and meters in my building down the street and was hoping to not have to do anything else with damn water lines (my grandpa's and father's main water lines broke the same week mine did - odd????!). Anyways, it is what it is. It's a duplex on a concrete pad foundation. I've turned off the water shut off valves in each unit to verify it is indeed from the meters to the shut off's and it's still spinning (takes about 6 seconds to make one full rotation on the meter. When the sink is full-blast it takes about 2 seconds to make one full rotation on the meter). I have dug the 5 feet distance from the meter to the concrete foundation and have not located any water leaking. I am assuming I need to hire a water leak detection company to use some sort of moisture detection equipment. The worst part is i just refinished my concrete floors, and now I might have to cut them up to get under them - $H*T!. Anyone have any thoughts on the best way to approach this? What do other people do when this happens? Is it best to just fix the leak or is there a good way to replace the water lines? This property is in Snohomish County, Washington State. Thank You!