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All Forum Posts by: Henry Clark

Henry Clark has started 190 posts and replied 3611 times.

Post: What are the best ways/ sites to find self storage units?

Henry Clark
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Some notes on project estimation.  References the excel file.

PROJECT ESTIMATION TEMPLATE

Whether I am building or buying a location, I always run the Estimation template to dial in whether I can or should do the project. Each of us will have our own Payback, CAP rates, cash flow models and Tax implications thresholds; I am not covering that. This is a back of the napkin estimation, just on a spreadsheet.

We are in 8 locations and 5 towns; and we have used this approach to determine upfront whether to invest or not. Six of the locations are in towns of less than 5,000. Two of the locations are in a 1mm metro area (630 and 330 units). We will have built 47 buildings once we complete these last two sites.

This project list is for outside Storage and for the locations/cities we have looked at. Own the thought process. Example: HVAC, Fire Sprinklers, Facade, frost free footings, Storm retention ponds, road type, fire hydrants, etc. These and others, are the items that will hurt you, if you don’t own your knowledge. This spreadsheet is not all encompassing. For example on this project, I was “done with the spreadsheet”. I missed that there is a “Wet” spot in the middle. We will need to put in a $30,000 drain tile not reflected in my estimate. Still learning. You might want to put a SWAG factor (5%) in, up front.

Fill in the green areas. For the building quote, get one in your local area. This should represent the Building material, concrete base, and erection all delivered on site.

Side notes:

A. You can also use this template in reverse without knowing your site. Leave the “Land” amount blank and plug numbers in. This will give you a range of how much you can pay for the Land.

B. How many buildings should you build Phase One? I always have my first set of buildings pay off all of the land, fencing, initial ground/electrical/plumbing work. We use a 65% break even factor. This is a Cash flow estimate of how many of the units need to be filled to cover all expenses (except Depreciation) plus Principal/Interest payments. Although this is a little Chicken and Egg, or Circular logic. If you need 150 units to pay these costs, then add 80 more units for a total of 230. 230= 150 divided by 65%. Your building/road layout might dictate you build 240 or 204, then that is what you build. We never want to build just enough units (65%). The most depressing (counter intuitive) time for a storage owner is when you hit 90%; you have to decide if you build another building.

C. Phase 2, you will find your break even is around 35%. This is where the money starts to roll and your occupancy rate risk starts to decline.

See spreadsheet on our website (xxxxxxxxx). Where ever it says spreadsheet, then hit the open button at the bottom. Change it and adapt it to your needs.

Again, don’t Trust anything I tell or give you. Own your info and data. Anything in the Storage Business can be validated. Start small and make your big mistakes early.

Post: What are the best ways/ sites to find self storage units?

Henry Clark
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@ Nick  Return analysis.  Don't thing I can send you my Excel file through this forum.  So I will cut paste what it looks like.

Its on my other computer.  Use this control log, to help you get your head around this project, whether you buy or build.

I did this for a young guy in Croatia, just disregard the non applicable parts.



Storage Startup Checklist 101


Response to Zagreb, Croatia startup
1 Why Do Storage?

2
Why Storage? Why you? I’ll do a separate Topic. Don’t know your financial’s, but you will outstrip your collateralization fast. Develop a relationship with someone you trust and bring them along for the ride. Preferably an Apartment developer. They don’t have to invest in the first project, but you will need them later. Make sure this a solid relationship, otherwise they will cut you out once your successful.
3 Market/Demand:

4
Market size See post, if your the “first”, then you don’t care. You have more than enough Market, in a 800,000 Pop city.
5
Outside or climate controlled? Let your search and “deal” decide. Look for both an outside Land acquisition or an old industrial building. If you get a large enough building, finish it out in stages.
6
Market location Seek your higher income areas first. Pick along the A2, A3, A4 corridors first. Stay away from the mountains. Do several small locations, no smaller than 1 hectare. Once you have the experience and Financial support, go for a Climate controlled location in an old neighborhood that is high income or rebuilding itself.
7
Zoning See post
8
Site location Have several searches and deals going at once, most of them won’t pan out for the price you are willing to pay. This way you “can walk away”. This gives you negotiating power.
9
Site acquisition
10 Financing:
See “Topic”
11
Financing-construction Find a banker who knows Apartment building construction
12
Financing- rent up stage Same as above. You want “interest only” and not principal for a portion of the rent up period.
13
Financing- long-term If your going to grow, unless you have significant capital at your disposal, find a future business partner.
14
Business Model I’ll clean up and post one of my spreadsheets later.
15 Construction:
Use local knowledge/availability
16
Permits
17
Building type
18
Building manufacturer
19
Contractor
20 Day to day:

21
Rental Contract Post a “Topic” on this Forum and ask for some copies sent to you.
22
Rental Rates Zagreb’s GDP per capita is $19,132 versus where I live $60,246 metro area of 1mm. Thus if I say a 10 x 20 “Foot, not meter” unit is $120, then yours would be around $40. Making this simplistic. Get on Sparefoot and pick a US city similar to Zagreb and pick out prices for 10 x 20/15/10/5. Then take 1/3 of that for your price in US $, then convert. Recommend you don’t use this as your starting prices; go after a richer neighborhood and charge higher prices.
23
Auction rules Post a “Topic” on this Forum and ask for some copies sent to you.
24
Security system Situational, work with your local security firm.
25
Fencing situational
26
Self Service or manager situational
27
Management software Since the world is internet based, see if you can use one of the Storage management softwares in Zagreb. Do not do this on a spreadsheet or paper. You need to develop a system to grow with.
28 Marketing:

29
Website check ClarkstorageLLC, and others on this forum. Take the best from each and make a template, for a better one.
30
SEO management Since your the only one, you just need Google Map Pins and build up your google ranking under key words.
31
Marketing Software Sparefoot or similar in your market area. If none exist for Storage, seek out Apartment, home, AIRBNB, Craigslist sites. If you have Craigslist, put an add out there with your offering and price. Different sizes and prices. Get feedback.
32
Marketing Something you probably already know.
33
Social Media Something you probably already know.
34 Insurance:
Leave to you for local knowledge
35
Business
36
Renters

Sundry:
Leave to you for local knowledge


Property taxes


Legal system

Post: What are the best ways/ sites to find self storage units?

Henry Clark
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@ Nick.  Quick answer to your original questions.

Look at Loopnet/Tennessee/Self Storage.

Use the following to sharpen your decision skills.  Take the property Tennessee Storage that is for sale in Memphis.  Go through the due diligence motions.  "Do Not buy this property".  

1.  Go through the zoning notes I gave you. Look for 3 Miles around this property, see how hard it would be to purchase a piece of ground and build there. Price, zoning, availability. The harder it is, the safer an investment for you. A large REIT can't come in and devalue you. You can raise the rents. I normally do this on new customers. You could do on all customers at once, but you might end up floating most of your note. You could do by size every six months. Example: All 10 x 10 increased. Wait six months and then do 15's. Then 20's later.

2.  Market.  A.  Get the population headcount for 3 miles around and 5 miles around.  B.  Count all of the storage Units within 3 miles.  Keep track of the sizes, but treat 15/20 units the same.  Any 5/10 make them into 15 units.  You will use A and B to determine the ratio of units to headcounts.  This will tell us if this is a good market.

3.  It says something about 45 parking spots.  These must be in Doors, cause the pictures don't show out doors.  If outdoors, this is sweet.  Build Storage units in their place.  Parking doesn't bring in much money.

4.  Check the land to the West and North West.  See zoning, usage, availability, pricing.  If this is bare ground like the map shows, this can be a "Sweet" deal if the market can take the extra storage units, or do RV/Boat/Vehicle storage if you can get away with "Rock" surface.  Your looking for items like this, for that "Sweet" deal.  The Northwest property is odd shaped, so good for storage, bad for other usage.  Lowers the price.

Team:

A.  Bank- your in real Estate, but I will say this any way.  Pick a local bank with a large enough Loan cap rate to cover your future plans.  You don't want to have several banks and have to educate each banker.  Don't go with a large national or regional bank.

B. If you build new and need to choose a manufacturer. The actual Storage building itself is only about 1/5 the cost of the facility.  I mean just the "metal".  Land, Concrete, erection, fence, security, electric, water, etc make up the majority of the cost.  Go around and look at buildings that are 20 years or older.  Pick the building you like the best (paint) and doors/locks.  Try to find their local distributor/builder, so they can service you.

C.  Facility Insurance/Customer Insurance/Management software/Advertising/security/Fencing/gate/whole other discussion.



"Do Not buy this property";

Start small and make your Big mistakes early.

Post: What are the best ways/ sites to find self storage units?

Henry Clark
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@Nick.  Market- Will they come.  I could give you the ratio, but I'm going to make your earn it.  I have used this ratio for all of our Buy/build decisions.  Others will mention sqft/population.  Use the one I'm giving you.  Should take you two weekends.  Come back and tell me the ratio and I will let you know if your close.  You need to own this piece of info.  It will be the basis for any future Self Storage investment.

Market Demand- “Will they come?”

I'll give you the tool I use, but you will have to make an investment of your own time. Otherwise you don't own the data.



Step 1 "Capacity":
Count the units and sizes in that market. Get headcount by googling the town or zip code. Be aware if the town is standalone, or it might have a large population outside since it is a suburban community to a larger town nearby. Add those people in by using County or School area population.

Example:
Town 1:
#of units/headcount= 300 units in the area/ population 3,000= 10 units per 100 people.

Town 2:
500 4,000= 12.5 per 100
Town 3:
and so on.

Do every stand alone town in a 60 mile radius, or until your satisfied. You will get a High, Low and a average. I have a certain ratio per 100 headcount (not households, not age, not sex) I use when deciding to buy or build in a town. You will get to the same answer I have.

Luckily we are all the same. Death, divorce, fire, home sale, floods, layoffs, etc. No matter whether your Rich or poor, city or country folk. The ratio above works anywhere.


Step 2 "Existing":
In each town count the number of units by size. When I do my ratio I assume all units are the same. Count the 10/15/20's. Any smaller units just make them equivalents of a 10 x15. 3 5 x 10's= 1 unit

Although I am counting them all as the same, the reason, I say count by size is for when you build.



Now lets calculate "Demand":
Number of units needed (Step 1) minus Number of units existing (Step 2) = Quantity to build.

Town 1:
500 - 400 = 100

Town 2:
300 - 100 = 200

Town 3:
and so on.

This will help you pick which town you have the greatest potential for success. "Subject" to other factors that is where you want to either buy or build first. You only need to do the above once. I have kept this ratio in my head since the first time and make all my decisions using it, before I move into a market. If your in a large city, use this ratio. Pick the zip codes in your territory.

Many exceptions to the above.
a. My town has the highest per 100 count around by far, and I am still building. There are reasons.
b. I just built in a town that was not the best of the ratios. But the largest facility with 1/2 the business is 4 miles out of town by themselves.
c. There is a town that is Fully Saturated. No extra unit will ever be rented in it. I would love to build there. Everyone built 10 x 20's for some reason and they did it at the south end of town where the zoning is easiest. I can build halfway to the population who is in the Northend of town and I would hone in on 10's and 15's with some 20's. Everyone thinks they have less than they have. They will rent 10's or 15's first.
d. We are building our last location. Your eyes never stop looking. The best spot I have seen is a cornfield where you can't see a single house. Would loved to have built that one.


You don't know me.
1. Own the data yourself. Don't have me give you the figure. Question the logic, “all of us are the same”.
2. We are in 5 towns, 8 locations. Most are in towns of 5,000 or less. We are in Phase 1 rent up stage in our first large city location (630) and in building stage across town (330).

I have used this tool for all of the Buyouts or build outs above. "Put your money where your mouth is."


Ad Hoc- Traffic counts
Two locations, one with 70,000 Vehicles per day and one with 15,000 per day. Both in the same general area. I picked the 15,000; why? Learn the nuances. Start small and make your mistakes then.

Don’t trust me. Own the info, it’s your money. Everything in the Storage business can be validated.

Post: What are the best ways/ sites to find self storage units?

Henry Clark
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@ Nick.  Zoning.  Some of the info I give you may be a little disjointed, because I wrote them for a different person or situation.  You will get the jist.  Communicate how big of an investment you want to do.  This will narrow my advice down a lot.  If I don't respond for a few days, its because we are finishing ground work for our latest location 330 units.

ZONING, I-3 RIGHT?

When ever I take a look at a new town to do storage, I take two approaches at the same time. Do I build? Do I buy? Do both of these at once and go with the one with the best return or impact. Preferably, I like to buy because this takes out competition, greater control over pricing, and hopefully they have some land to expand on. The expansion of an existing facility is always more profitable than the initial purchase or build.

A. Look at zoning either online or at the City or County courthouse look up both the Zoning Map and get a copy, if one exists of a Zoning template, which explains what each zone permits and may allow under a Special use or Condition permit.

B. Read each Zone in detail, unless they have a cross reference table showing “allowed” and “special use”.

C. Ask for the Future planned zoning map. This will tell you where you probably can ask for a change in Zone or for a Special Use permit; and have a greater chance of getting it approved.

D. Talk with the local realtors and they may know what is not on the above Maps and tables. Most cities don’t allow “Spot” zoning. So they don’t get sued. One city I know designated an entire area “Agriculture”, the lowest zoning possible, so they could control allowing what industries come.

E. Most of the time Storage is designated to an Industrial zone. But not always. I have seen it under Agricultural, Planned Residential, Commercial and some Industrial zones.

F. Look at a GIS map of the city. See if Railroads cross through. The Federal government gave both city sites and land along the tracks to the railroad. The Railroad then sold this land to help finance their construction. Look for any land that is still owned by the railroad and ask them to buy it. It won’t have a “For Sale” sign on it, but it will most likely be available for sale if it is not used as a work yard or siding. The good thing about this property since it is so old, it will be in the middle of the town, in a great location. It will probably be zoned “Residential”, but the Railroad will not sale it without putting covenants on it, that no human habitation (home, daycare, school, retirement home, etc) can be built there. Another good thing, is the Railroad does not pay property tax, anywhere. Put in an offer subject to zoning approval. Ask the Zoning committee to allow you to do a “Special Use” permit since the Railroad will never allow “Human Habitation” in this Residential zone. Also ask them to let you pay property taxes. Your units will be well landscaped and they will provide a noise buffer with the railroad.

G. Look at Non-Allowed zoned properties, next to Allowed zoned areas. Still look at these properties since Zoning committees may allow you to switch the zoning or do a special use permit. They do not regard this as “Spot” zoning, since it is next to an allowed area.

What do you do with this information?:

1. Now, that you know the zoning, look for any spots greater than 2 acres (“drive up” storage). Start checking on the prices, even if a location is not for sale. So you don’t waste your time looking at all locations, prioritize and pick locations that put you in a more favorable location between your future competition and your residential customers. Most storage facilities are Mom/Pop and were built with the owner in mind and not the customer. Examples: Gas station owner had two acres and built on one. Hotel operator had additional space. Etc. They did not necessarily build closer to their customers or for ease of access or street advertising. Buy them later when you have a footprint in the town. You don’t want to buy them first and have to go check on 30 units, 30 miles away. We built in one town, and before construction was done bought two other locations that were offered.

2. Line up your potential purchases in priority and start making short and time sensitive offers. You are now in power since you are not tied to one location or even one town. You have a 40 mile radius or whatever you consider a comfortable distance to manage.

3. The harder it is for you to find a location, the better. Less chance for “Stupid” money to build next to you, or out position you.

Zoning Adjustment Meetings:

“Just the Facts.” You will get to speak first, remember your an “Outsider” and don’t vote in that community. Take your time describing your facilities. The property and sales tax it will bring. Explain the current taxes and current look of the property. Show them a “Look” of the new facilities. No one may show up, or you might get 30 people to show up. You “personally” may have to notify everyone within a 200 foot radius or the City might do it. When the public speaks, don’t argue with them. They get their say. Hopefully your added property/sales tax dollars outweighs the public view point. When the vote (good or bad) is over thank each of the members, they’re not paid and most have businesses.

If the Zoning Adjustment committee approves or disapproves it, you then can go to the City/County board for another public hearing and a vote. Don’t waste your time, if the Adjustment committee voted against you. If the City/County Board approves, ask them to waive the need for future “Reading” meetings. The above two public hearings, possible two more “reading” meetings and the final “vote” meeting may take you 4 months, 4 weeks or maybe just two meetings. Depends on how often the boards meet and how much opposition/benefit there is.

Happy hunting. This is the most stressful and fun part of the process. You have very little control, but your decision on property will be the most important of the whole build/buy process. Add Control, by adding more location/city options. ClarkStorageLLC is done growing, but you never stop looking. The best spot yet, is a cornfield where there isn’t a house for a mile. Would love to have built a 1,000 unit location there.

Remember, start small and make your big mistakes early.

Post: What are the best ways/ sites to find self storage units?

Henry Clark
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@Nick, going to give you a ton of info, in separate posts.  Remember anything free is worth that.  Own the info and data, I give you.  Start small and make your Big mistakes early.  Remember Self Storage is not a zero sum game, you don't loose down to $zero.  Key though is to concentrate on the following:

1.  Zoning,  The harder the better.

2.  Market, will they come.  Use this to determine which town or investment to take first.

3.  Return analysis.  Hidden costs.  What size of investment are you looking for $300,000;  $750,000; or $2,000,000 up?  This would help narrow down the discussion.  Rock Island, Tn rec area.  This can be a specific type of investment for that location. 

4.  Look for a sweet deal.  Example:  440 unit 2 year old location only 30% rented up.  In a market that only has 30% market penetration, zoned so "Stupid" money will have a hard time moving in.  Family just had a medical issue and want to dump.  Bleeding $15,000 per month.  They don't know Storage basics.  You can find this near you.

Post: Off-Market Commercial properties

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@ Timothy,

Work it backwards.  The folks above, are saying there is no front door report.

1.  Get the listing for your area of late property tax payments.

2.  Ask Better Business bureau for a listing of low ratings

3.  $$$ Seek a credit report company.  DB, TRW, etc.  Pay for an area, industry specific listing with credit ratings below xxx.

4.  If your really energized, contact the groundskeeping/lawnservices in your area and tell them what your looking for.

Forget your financial numbers/percentages.  Those will be what you negotiate once you find the property.  Don't go looking for the numbers.

Good luck.  

Post: Choosing Farm Areas for Boat and RV Storage

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Your specific question was for a city.  Don't worry about it.  Your only city is Detroit to reference.  Sunday afternoon, you want to know what roads are backed up coming home, wishing they could leave their RV stored closer to the rec areas.  You can be in the middle of no where, as long as it is easy access coming and going.

Post: Choosing Farm Areas for Boat and RV Storage

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Sorry, dropped off for a while.  Starting ground work on our next Storage location.

Please see new separate posting I just did.  I keep getting kicked off when I do a link or website.  Good luck.  I combined about 3 blogs or posts I have done on the subject.  More than you asked.

Post: RV/Boat/Vehicle lot selection

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@ Ryan York post response.  1.  Site Selection, 2.  Considerations blog, 3.  Site layout,   This may be a little disjointed, I am combining 3 different blogs and discussions I have had.

1.  Site Selection:

Your near Detroit, so I will do this specific suggestion without boots on the ground.

a.  You have two choices for location.  Either close to the customers home (expensive ground/higher rent needed/lower availability of land) or close to their recreation area (less expensive ground/lower rent/more land options).  If you go towards the rec area, I would recommend a combination Storage and Rec parking area, separated on the same grounds.

b.  Your town would be great for both the lake area, but also near their homes even though they are away from the small lake region.  Your ground will be more expensive and you will need to charge more.

c.  Looks like most people would exit the city and go Northwest towards the small lake regions.  I would look from both a zoning/cost/access standpoint in the following Box.  Brighton/Farmington/Rochester/Springfield.  Stay on the side towards Detroit in your selection.

d.  Using Detroit neighborhoods as the focal point.  I will recommend away from Detroit.  Pick a road crossway, that either has an overpass or crosslight if heavy traffic.  If further out, pick a crossway, that they can go either way, versus just to the right.  Pick a piece of ground you see before you get to the intersection coming from Detroit.  1/3 to 1/4 mile before, so they can see and pull in.

e.  I would recommend nothing less than 5 acres, preferably more.  Decide ahead of time the services you will provide.  This will determine water, sewerage, electric needs.   Make sure you figure out your Snow removal.  Or keep it closed/no access over the winter season.

Key is to pencil your numbers.  Parking/storage is not a rapid return proposition.  Recommend you also do Self storage buildings or Cargo containers; or do a Rec parking area.  There is a great demand for RV/Boat/Vehicle parking, but the numbers are slim.  Start small and make your Big mistakes early.

2.  CONSIDERATIONS FOR RV OR VEHICLE STORAGE

A. Pull through- The front, pull as far forward as possible, gives the person next to you an easier angle to turn into, from behind you. Align your front with the fronts of all other vehicles. Be courteous and leave enough room on the Driver side, so that RV can open their doors.

B. Back to back parking- our locations are set up at 60 degree parking. Also, they are setup for the driver to back in on their side, so they can use the lot next to them for alignment. This way you only have one blind side on the right side backing in. Otherwise you have two blind sides.

We have 20/30/40 foot parking at our location at 26763 Highway 34, Glenwood, IA. Each size has a different width due to how hard it is to park a longer unit at the very front angle of their turn in. 20’s- 10 wide; 30’s- 12 wide; 40’s- 15 wide. Although you could park an RV in any of these sizes, it is easier with a wider width to make the “front” turn. Or ask for an end parking spot, so you are doing a 90 degree parking, but have the whole drive way to back in with, without a turn.

C. Canopy- same issues as others, depending on if 60 degree or 90 degree parking.

D. Enclosed- Really a matter of width and depth. Keep in mind all measurements for storage are relative. For example: A 10 wide x 20 deep x 8 tall unit, with studs, roll up door and door jambs; is really 9 wide x 19 ft 6 inch deep x 7 ½ foot tall. Also if you have a 20 ft boat or Camper, its really 22/23/24 ft depending on Propeller, bumper or front hitch.

E. Surface- Rock or hard surface (concrete/asphalt); If on rock/asphalt put your tongue leg or stabilizer pads on wider pads to spread the weight out. These pads are needed on Asphalt since in hot weather they will sink into the asphalt.

F. Pest control- we put mouse bait out along the fence lines and under the units, mow excess weeds and grass. You should put both rodent and bug control in your unit. Dispose of all food sources, for long term storage. If you want to be really diligent with pest control, don’t park next to overhead lights. They attract bugs at night and then mice underneath. Put scented drier sheets in all compartments and rooms. Open all cabinets and doors.

G. Stabilizers- if doing long term storage put you stabilizers down. Most parking is in an open area and the units can rock and move with the wind. This will also help with taking pressure off your tires so they last longer.

H. Security- Put a lock on the hitch. Although you are in a secure location, RV’s and trailers are the easiest storage to break into or take without notice. Recommend you put in motion sensors or GPS tracking security. Check your vehicle at least twice a month. Most Security systems only maintain footage for 2 weeks due to camera memory capacity.

I. Propane Fuel Tanks- disconnect and store if leaving for long term storage.

J. Electronic Lifts- disconnect the battery if leaving for long term storage.

K. Insurance- most storage unit insurance policies do not cover vehicles. Keep your insurance, just have them adjust your automobile to fewer miles or just comprehensive coverage. Wind, Flood, tornado, Hail, or third party damage or theft can still occur. Traditional insurance coverage, RV’s normally stay a flat rate throughout the year, thus you will still need to maintain full coverage. Or, if you seek out a specific RV or rec vehicle insurance company, you can move in and out of winterization rates.

L. Pricing- use a 30 foot vehicle as an example:

-In the country about a $1 per foot on rock.

-With Paved access and parking spot, this might run $60 to $90

- Enclosed parking this will cost about $120 to $170 for a 30 foot.

- Enclosed parking for a 50 foot, might cost $225 to $350.

The price extremes are the cost of the concrete/asphalt road and the storage bay. Also the longer the unit the price goes up significantly because it takes more driveway width to park and the type of door changes in both size and type (remote operated). A 50 ft RV will require about a 70 foot wide driveway to back in.

We are only addressing the long term Parking portion of storage. Other items are specific to each vehicle such as water clean out, Tire/window shades, etc.

Quick non Parking list:

Wheel/tire covers; Vehicle cover.

Remove and store your tires.

Store with a full fuel tank to prevent condensation

Add fuel stabilizers

Place RV completely off the ground to prevent flat spots on your tires, if left for a long time.

Cover your HVAC, skylights, vents and windows to prevent exposure to sun and breakdown.

Boats leave your plug out, whether covered or not.



3. Surface, Canopy, Enclosed.


Just talking Surface.

Have run the numbers about 10 times on Enclosed, but I would have to charge $225 to $350 per month and don't have that market here. Have only seen one location on the interstate near Oklahoma City that had that market ($150,000 to $500,000 RV's) and they were full. They have a lot of $1mm homes and lakes nearby. You have to do Concierge services for that market. Battery charger, turn fridge on before trips, Dump station, Concierge parking service, Tire/Oil/etc check, Big drive ways, electric in each unit, etc.

Canopy, I have seen in Texas. Cant say much, haven't researched it.

I have been in two other models. Old welding shop with 40 foot roofs. Spots are "crammed in". They park and unpark for you.
Another, is winter only. You go "in" the fall and everyone comes "out" the same time in the spring. They also have a lot of outside spaces. Both of these models were full.




Attached (guess you can't upload Excel files) is an Inventory list of an exact 2 acre parking lot we have. Also the row configuration. See cut and past below.

Might not apply if your on concrete, which would be great, but I'll throw these out anyway.
Its on rock. Use 1 1/2 inch with "Fines". Cost about $20,000 for rock delivered.
Put Geogrid underneath, so no potholes after 4 years. Otherwise, you need to put a base of 3 inch rock first, then the 1 1/2 with fines. Be careful if you blade snow.
Payback is about 12 years.
Not the best use of the land, but didn't need it at the time for storage.
Put at 60 degree angle, otherwise you get a lot less spaces, since your driveways have to be wider. Example: If you do 90 degrees parking on a 50 foot space, you might need a 70 foot driveway. Also 60 degrees makes it easy for the driver. Also put the 60 degrees turn on the driver side window so they can see the turn.
Put a Wire and posts down the middle of the shared back to back parking so vehicles stay on their side. Used other posts, stakes, number signs (reflective) to define each space.
Mix. Went with even surface area for 20/30/40 foot spaces. Did not do any 50's for large RV's. Where we are at, most RV's are in the $10,000 to $70,000 range. Actually worked out pretty good. The 20's have a few vacancies.
Price $20/$30/$40. This is in a 10,000 population community with about 4 no wake lakes to the East within 60 miles. Prices could be higher, but= No city restrictions on vehicles, which would increase your market. Plus we are in the country, where you can find a friend to park.
Run light and security camera poles first.
Definitely put a "License Plate" specific camera at a narrow point and other cameras and lights at that bottleneck. Our spot is fenced off from the Storage location, with one access point, no gate there. Recommend your NVR has a timeline with Red markers for motion on your cameras.
Layout and capacity really depends on the lot shape. The same two acres, could probably get about 30% more if it was a rectangle versus a square, due to less turnarounds.


Attachment:
This is a relaxed layout, I did not try to cram the spaces in.
Rows and Road Configuration
ARoadBCRoadDERoadF
This layout is on a 2 acre square.
Roads are all the same width.
All rows are set at 45 degree angles
UnitDescriptionRow:
G0011x20x1A
G0021x20x1A
G0031x20x1A
G0041x20x1A
G0051x20x1A
G0061x20x1A
G0071x20x1A
G0081x20x1A
G0091x20x1A
G0101x20x1A
G0111x20x1A
G0121x20x1A
G0131x20x1A
G0141x20x1A
G0151x20x1A
G0161x20x1B
G0171x20x1B
G0181x20x1B
G0191x20x1B
G0201x20x1B
G0211x20x1B
G0221x20x1B
G0231x20x1B
G0241x20x1B
G0251x20x1B
G0261x20x1B
G0271x20x1B
G0281x20x1B
G0291x20x1B
G0301x20x1B
G0311x30x1C
G0321x30x1C
G0331x30x1C
G0341x30x1C
G0351x30x1C
G0361x30x1C
G0371x30x1C
G0381x30x1C
G0391x30x1C
G0401x30x1C
G0411x30x1C
G0421x30x1C
G0431x30x1C
G0441x30x1C
G0451x30x1C
G0471x40x1D
G0481x40x1D
G0491x40x1D
G0501x40x1D
G0511x40x1D
G0521x40x1D
G0531x40x1D
G0541x40x1D
G0551x40x1D
G0561x40x1D
G0571x40x1D
G0581x40x1D
G0591x40x1D
G0601x30x1E
G0611x30x1E
G0621x30x1E
G0631x30x1E
G0641x30x1E
G0651x30x1E
G0661x30x1E
G0671x30x1E
G0681x30x1E
G0691x30x1E
G0701x30x1E
G0711x30x1E
G0721x40x1F
G0731x40x1F
G0741x40x1F
G0751x40x1F
G0761x40x1F
G0771x40x1F
G0781x40x1F
G0791x40x1F
G0801x40x1F
G0811x40x1F
G0821x40x1F
G0831x40x1F
G0841x40x1F
G0851x40x1F
G0861x40x1F
G0871x40x1F
G0881x40x1F
G0891x40x1F

Additional notes:



If I didn't do back to back would have about 30% less spots ( you have to add more driveways for the same number of units) and payback would be around 18 years versus 12. Wouldn't do it. Had my buddy who does RV rentals help me lay it out. I also wanted to do "Drive through" which we have at one of our other spots. Customers love it, but it doesn't pay. He said if you have an RV you should be used to backing into a campsite. He helped me with the 30 and 40 foot spacings. 8 foot wide vehicle with 2 1/2 feet on each side, for a total of 13 feet. This is fine for the 30, little tight on the 40's backing in. He said could be tighter, but I didn't want to push it.

No problem filling enclosed parking for RV's. Problem is the numbers don't pay. Have a quote from last week for a 20 x 50 x 16 T. 14 x 14 door with operator ($4,400 for door and operator), plus walk thru door. $35,866 for one unit. That's just the unit. If you put a 50ft rv in it, you need a 60-70 foot driveway, if parking at 90 degrees. That's a lot of money for a driveway. Concrete footings, concrete floor, concrete driveway per code. Can rent these all day long at $150, but I would need to charge around $350 to $400; which won't fly in my neighborhood.

Let me know what type of building you are doing, size and rent. Add in concrete footings, concrete parking and 65-70 foot concrete driveway.

We did a 12 wide by 10 tall regular storage unit. This works great for our car people and boats.


The key to planning is to get some stakes and string. Layout the spots and drive/park in it. Get the feel, before you put the spaces down.