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All Forum Posts by: Henry Clark

Henry Clark has started 201 posts and replied 3873 times.

Post: Estimated Costs to Build Self Storage Facility

Henry Clark
#1 Commercial Real Estate Investing Contributor
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@Ray Hauser

Costs about $3,100 per traditional storage unit.  This about $15 to $20 per sq foot.  This is for the entire building structure erected.  Does not include land, site prep, roads, fence, etc

@Kyle Bryant

Are you still studying site or have you built?   If still studying let me know town or road location and I will take a look at potential.  Happy thanksgiving.  Getting ready to go golf after 25 years with my brothers hope I don’t tear a muscle. I’ll check if you responded later. 

@Frank Hinck

Happy thanksgiving

Down near San Antonio.  La Vernia.  Enjoying the weather down here. Anyone looking for a development project down here.  Give me a yell. Can’t turn your brain of when your driving, looking for projects.  Will be about a $1.5mm Storage project with another $2nm potential housing development. 

Post: Self Storage Day to day Constructing a new facility

Henry Clark
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Covering bathroom. Each city is probably different. Ours requires 60 inches circumference for a wheel chair to have clearance to turn in. This room is 10 x 10 way to big. Our next location bathroom is about half this size. In the picture above our plumber had to replace the sink since they put a 4 legged sink in. You can't get a wheel chair under. The wall next to the commode they had to build an extension, since the commode was to far from the wall. So much for following the engineering drawings. I had to pay to fix both. As noted the concrete out front has to be at door level for a wheel chair.

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Our Electrician did a great job. The light sensor on the left turns the lights on and then off. You can adjust the sensor to different heights. If it goes off you just need motion. The heater is to the right. It has a dial, so you can set and it will turn on/off on its own depending on temp. Keep it low around 50 so pipes don't freeze.

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This is the bathroom air vent. This was a little tricky at inspection time. The city requires an HVAC contractor to install "Mechanical". My Electrician came back later to install since I couldn't find an HVAC person to come and install just this little fan.

Post: Storage unit location

Henry Clark
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STORAGE LOCATION “SITE” SELECTION:

You have already performed the market analysis based on the earlier discussion of “Will they come?” and have learned how to analyze a town and its “Demand needs”. Now we will search for a “location” to Build out or Buy. Its preferable to Buy since this is the quickest and known cash flow. You also start to have more control over the pricing in that area. Building is usually better from a Marketing standpoint, because you can build it for the customer, versus most mom/pop locations are built because they had extra space where they were already at. We are only looking at Drive up storage and not Climate Controlled buildings. 80% of all Storage owners are individuals and most do Drive up Storage.

Reminder as an example for town selection:

(Existing units) (Unit market size) (Demand need)

Town 1 500 650 150

Town 2 1000 1000 0

Town 3 1800 3600 1800

Now I’m not going to make this easy for you. The obvious town above would be 3, but we wouldn’t learn much if the “numbers” were the only parameter. Then Town 1 and then Town 2 would be our selections.

Steps to select a site within a town:

A. Get the zoning ordinances or a zoning cross reference table.

B. Look at the zoning map.

C. Get a copy or look at the Planned Development map. For future zoning changes.

D. Do Google search, Self Storage Town name. Click on the Map.

- Look for the “Holes” in the town coverage, where there are less Storage Locations.

- Look where the most population live.

- Compare the Zoning map and the Planned Development map against the two items above.

E. Pull up “Sparefoot”, select the Map. Do the same comparison as D above.

F. Look for a location that is near a cross road or has two way turn through lanes or traffic light at its intersection. You want easy access for your customers on and off the front road.

G. If you see a site where there are already 5 National REIT Climate Controlled chains built side by side, and you can find a piece of land next to them, where the numbers work, build next (????) to them. Make sure you understand how you will compete against them.

Town 3:

Reviewing the ordinances, they only allow 60 foot long buildings with every 20 feet being offset forward or back from the next one. They all require brick or stone facade. Plus you have to have footings and hard surface drive ways. We might buy an existing location here if the numbers are right, but there are other towns where our entry point is less expensive and we will make more money. Yes, the above ordinances exist in a town I have researched. We won’t do the rest of the Site selection process on this town.

Town 1:

Everything looks good. We can build traditional buildings with no hard surface driveways, no footings required and no facades. Zoning allows Self Storage in I3, I2, I1 special use, C2 special use. We can find 1 ½ acres of land where we can put 120 units on, and the numbers work.

Town 2:

Why even look at Town 2, the numbers say they will never need another storage unit.

- The largest competitor has 400 units and is 4 miles out of town by their selves, away from the population.

- All of the existing Storage locations are all built out. No extra land to build on. Being mostly mom/pop they will not add a second location.

- Most of the Industrial zoning and storage units are in the South end of town and the population is at the north end of town.

- “PC” Planned Community zoning allows Self Storage with a Special/Conditional Use permit. There is land half way between the South Storage and the population areas.

- “A” Agriculture zoning allows Self Storage with Special use. This used to be an Agriculture community with no Commercial or Industrial needs, so they allowed these projects outside the normal City limits. The far larger town next to it has over run it, causing this towns population to swell. But this town has never gone back and updated their zoning plans. We can build at the North edge of the population.

- Everyone in the south built all 40 foot wide buildings which means they generally have 10 x 20 units or 15/25 or 10/30 combinations.

- Also Phase 1, if you have enough land only takes 65% occupancy to break even, which covers the principal/Interest payment, without depreciation expense or income tax considerations. You can get to 85% and be making good cash flow plus paying off the facility. Yes, these situations exist.

Summary:

I may come back to Town 1 and 3 in the future, but my greatest potential for success will be in Town 2. Town 3 has the greatest Demand need, but this fits the REIT climate control product better than a Drive up location. We don't want to compete against them on that type of product. They have better Financing and SEO power.

Depending on the Site in Town 2, we can build more units than Town 1; up to 300 to 500 units depending on the size of the site. Our major building configurations will be 30 foot wide buildings, so we compete with a 15/15 or 10/20 unit configuration. Competitively, we will be far closer to the population and we will have smaller size units that will be less expensive. Everyone thinks they have less to store than they do, and they always want the lower price. They will end up renting two 10 x 15’s after they fill the first one up.

If you get a chance, read the “Zoning I-3 right?” and the “Will they come?” posts. If you decide to do Self Storage grab a copy of the excel file for “Self Storage Startup Checklist 101” and the “Build out Cost template”. With the above you have 90% of all you need to be successful, most of the rest is “just do it” experiences, that won’t burn you to bad.

As always, “Start small and make your Big Mistakes early”. ClarkstorageLLC. Thanks.

Post: Starting Storage units

Henry Clark
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Read my post;  Self Storage 101.  Take the checklist and make it your own.

Post: Build or buy self-storage?

Henry Clark
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@ Austin;  You owe me a King Cake.

Buy or build:  read my post.

Take both approaches and which ever one works first is the best.

a.  Buy- you take out competition.  Faster path to controlling rental rates in the area.  Your looking for a good deal.  Look for extra land to build, if you have the market.  This is where you make your easy money.

b.  Build- location/location/location.  Most Mom/pop locations did not build for the customer.  They built because they had extra land.  If they are 1 mile out of town, then you build in town, you have outmaneuvered them.  Be careful buying, you don't get a location that can be outmaneuvered.

Financial targets- We go for an 8 to 12 year payback; on a 20 to 25 year bank amortization.  We can always pay off early.  We are in positive cashflow.  If we screwed up along the way, we have band width to take the hit.  This guarantees Cash Flow.

Financing- Whether buying or building, we are going after SBA loans 2.xx% rate.  20 to 25 year fixed rate.  10% down.  With the partner bank doing 5 year increments.  If building do a Construction loan with the participating bank for interest only to conserve your cash.  Ask for either 18 months interest only, or 65% occupancy, which is what we build to for break even, including principal/interest.  Once done then roll this over to the SBA loan.

Stupid Money-  Stick to local B/C/D properties.  Don't do indoors.  You can't compete with the national firms either Financing or SEO power.  Look for a spot that is is really hard for you to get into, this makes it harder for other people to build near your.  Zoning/hilly ground/land price to high/etc.

Look at our website how we do Self Service.  Make sure it fits your life style.  Can easily do with a full time job.

If you have more questions read all of my posts on Self Storage.  Then I will be glad to help.  After I get a King cake.

Start small and Make your Big Mistakes Early.

Post: Starting Storage units

Henry Clark
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What town are you looking at?

Do Google - self storage "your town".  Switch to the map.  Think in terms of 1 mile to 3 mile radius.  Look where the existing storage units are, relative to the houses.  Do you see a black hole.  Then check zoning for that area.

Same as above, but use Sparefoot.  Switch to maps.  This one will show sizes and prices.  Use this to help determine your mix of unit sizes.

Read my post:

Zoning; I3 right??

Will they come??

Storage location.

Depending on the size of your area, then hit the road and take an inventory by location:

1.  How many units by size

2.  Price for 15/20's

3.  Are they full? How easy is it for them to expand.

4.  Do the steps in my post "Will they come?".  This will tell you how full your market area is.

Post: Self Storage Day to day Constructing a new facility

Henry Clark
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Also got the Bank Officer out to see the jobsite. Walked him through the status of where we are at and then what will be accomplished the remainder of this year and then the final push next year. We will have a footprint for about 360 units. But I think I will change some of the shorter buildings down to 12 or 15 wide; 12 foot tall and 30 or 40 foot long. To expand the offering. First set of buildings will come in mid December and hopefully get completed by end of February. Although we won't have many rented out during the winter, the community will start to see us and we will be ready for the Spring rental push. This winter hope to get about 150 units finished and start renting.


The second Phase we will probably start building pads and roads again in May and hopefully complete around August. March and April, the "bottom" usually drops out of the soil. Over winter the soil freezes. Right when it thaws in the spring, some spots really get spongy and a pothole forms. So we will wait till May to start again.

Post: Self Storage Day to day Constructing a new facility

Henry Clark
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Beautiful days and a lot getting done.

Road crew are pouring the final half of a section.  We normally do 25 foot wide roads, you could do 20.  Splitting that is 12.5 feet half sections.  A concrete truck is roughly 8 feet wide.  Thus they are able to back down and pour the last half.

By doing to slab halves they are able to put a V in the middle to let the water run down.  Normally you don't want this to occur, because if water gets between and underneath, it will erode out the wall.  I will get a close up picture how they interlock the two slabs later.

Again on the picture above in the right front corner, you can see I put in a cardboard circular form to come back later and put in our Bollard to protect the corners of the buildings.

The next picture they are pulling a brush across the fresh driveway concrete.  This bristly brush will put a rougher texture to the surface making it safer to drive on, versus leaving  a smooth surface.

The next picture shows the grey foam they are putting between the building pad and as they pour the road.  This is expansion joint so as the ground heaves or thaws the road and the building pad move separately.

Below is our existing office front.  On the ground you will note a metal ramp to get into both the office and the bathroom.  We have to be ADA compliant and we forgot to pour the concrete for the road higher to meet the office.  Don't have a picture, but we remembered and got it right on this site.  My builder did a great job on the ramp and securing it, but its just one snow push or knock away from dislodging.

Its Thursday and we can't get anymore concrete this week.  So the builder will work to get the final and last pad ready to pour.  He has 1/2 of the previous pad to pour on Monday.  Since its Thanksgiving next week, he will probably not start the pour on the last pad.

The road crew won't get concrete till next week, so they are forming up the roads and getting ready for next week.  Once everyone is offsite this weekend.  I need to go and lower the dry wash area I did.  Its about a foot high in about a 10 foot area.  Otherwise water will dam up behind it a little.  Also need to build another drywash area, which I will explain later.

Post: Self Storage Day to day Constructing a new facility

Henry Clark
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Great weather today around 75. Normal should be 50. Had both the Road and the pad contractors going to town. Racing Mother Nature. The limiting factor right now is everyone is crushing it before winter sets in and no concrete can be poured. You have to schedule three days in advance for concrete. Concrete offices open at 6:30 and if you haven't called by 7:30 all the slots 3 days out are taken. Once the ground freezes you can't pour concrete on it, unless you keep the ground warm with heat blankets which is expensive and time consuming. And then you have to keep the poured concrete warm. Concrete generally has to be above 40 degrees, otherwise the concrete won't set and you just have mud and gravel.

Attachment one below showing you two things. The metal rod with the orange safety stop so you don't trip and stab yourself is the Electric ground for this pad. It is about a 20 foot piece of rebar bent in a long L shape with about 2 1/2 feet above ground. This will help with any lightning hits or electrical issues, from frying your camera or computer systems, or blowing the back wall out of your building.

At the base of the building you can now see how the building Rain guard lip and then the Road work together to keep water out of the building. The rain guard lip is about 1 inch below the floor. The black rubber guard on the roll up door will provide a sill so the rain doesn't blow under the door. If it does, then the 1 inch concrete lip keeps the water out.

The road is also set about 1 inch below the pad, helping to keep the water out. Also if we have frost heave, the road will still be below the pad or at worst even with it, thus keeping water out.


Second attachment are forms I placed while they were pouring the concrete. These are on the corners of the buildings where we will put steel post bollards. We could have let them pour over this, but then we would have to pay about $100 per hole to have a concrete "core" driller come out to use a circular saw to cut a hole. We will come back later with a post hole digger and dig down 3 feet. Then put a 7 foot steel post in. Then we will pour concrete into the hole. I do it the lazy way. I pour water into the hole. Then I slowly pour the dry concrete into the hole. That way I don't have to mix the concrete above ground. Will show you later.


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Post: What would you do with 70k cash during Covid?

Henry Clark
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I'm going to steer away from traditional REI because it's great now

You specifically referenced covid so I’ll go down that road

Your in Maryland high population. Your a realtor so you are comfortable with REI transactions and marketing on the internet

Seek out a hotel or motel with low vacancy.   Ask to rent out an entire floor or wing on an as needed room basis.  Advertise Covid recovery rooms.  Offer services.  Food, wash, check up or call program, etc.