All Forum Posts by: Andy Hudgins

@Steve R. what's the latest on the prospective purchase with "our" structure project? :)

I'm confused. Are you a prospective buyer or are you an underwriter?

JUST leave it to the professionals.

In some states, if it is 100 square feet or less, DIY. 

What you've got to consider is that the mold is in one area BUT it is spitting out spores which are going airborne and traveling into a humid, food-rich environment. When you start demo-ing, the spores really start flying. The pro's put everything under negative pressure which means the spores are directed either outside or through a HEPA air scrubber. So, if YOU start the demo by first turning on the air conditioning so that your crew can work in comfort well, now the airborne spores are being drawn into the HVAC and spread throughout the entire house.

A talented mold ASSESSOR might visit and not only give an estimate but also provide helpful hints where the performance of the structure is concerned as it relates to vapor activity.  Yes, this estimate should be provided only by an assessor, not a mold remediator. As our holdings grow we would benefit from a relationship with a good assessor.

@Frank S. Hey Frank, before you buy keep in mind a few things:

the moisture/humidity/mold in the  crawl is a dynamic thing. It's alive and progressing. You have all the ingredients in the recipe since you've noticed the mold.  If you are able to steer the running water away permanently your mold troubles may not be over. If the crawl dries to a point of being dusty for long periods of time the mold may go "dormant" where new spore production is concerned.  If it remains dry forever then the mold will stay dormant forever but still in place.  But how likely is that? Obviously, when mold is present and spreading your structure is experiencing decay at times more aggressively than others.  This should be considered. These are expensive considerations. For example, say you have a remediation company successfully remove the mold from the crawl. If the source of humidity is not stopped there is risk of having to remediate again.

Let me know if you want specifics on what to look for when inspecting.

I hope this helps.

@Anthony Johnson Read this Anthony:

"Investing in Real Estate With Lease Options and Subject-To Deals" Wendy Patton

Very enlightening.

Check codes for your neck of the woods as it relates to footers --- I'll bet ya', yes. Use the  one-ton jacks (two) for initial lifting. Once at desired height install permanent girder and threaded screw jacks (Grainger) directly below lift area, then remove bottle jacks and use them for initial lift at next spot.

This could be dangerous at times so be careful.

@James DeRoest has it right!

First get your engineer on it, then:

*Mount your laser level in a spot where hopefully it will be visible in at least a few spots (duct work in the way)

*One ton bottle jacks to lift to exact spot quick (Expect sheetrock repair upstairs).

*'DOT Mix' concrete and rebar in your holes. Sets REAL fast! (Before you've dug and poured your sixth hole the first poured hole is nearly ready to accept weight)

*Build your new girders with glue/screws/ 1/2" plywood sandwiched 2x10's (will NEVER sag, plywood mandatory, emphasis on the word "mandatory").

*Leave $35-45 bottle jacks in place on top of new footers for adjustment in the event of settling (if someone insists on putting PT wooden posts in the dirt ---- DON'T!).

Hope this helps.

@Rudy Manna

I've found that "cheaper" sump pumps are much more expensive where maintenance and performance are concerned. If it's bought right combined with the correct installation techniques you will be much happier long-term. Believe it or not, the sump liner (bucket) installation is just as important if not more than the selection of the pump itself.  It has to collect water of course but it also has to be an excellent filter. Plus it has to be large enough so that it doesn't fill too quickly. I hope this helps.

Not at all @Cody Barrett

There's lots more little things that could be done to arrive at a very dry structure i.e., *foundation vents ---- seal them; 

*set the dehu right beside the finished wall in the center of the structure then stand back and watch it dry both sides downstairs and the upstairs!

Wait ---- you didn't mention any problems the tenants are complaining of. So maybe the basement is not too wet/humid? Before you visit and do a real inspection give me a shout and I'll tell you what the signs are.

Let me know when other questions pop up.

The closer to the center of the structure you can get it the more effective it will be in the shortest amount of time.  You can purchase a condensate pump for $50 and plumb it to where ever you need.  At that point it is self-sustaining. 

If you install a dehu from a big box store each pint of water removed is going to cost you approx. $00.10 - 00.12 per pint. A real dehu will cost $00.02 - 00.04, run more efficiently, remove micro-contaminants from the air (hepa filter), and have the strength to shuffle around ALL the air in the basement through the filter. But it will cost significantly more. Clean/replace two stage filters every six months.