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Best flooring for a rental?
I have seen some that say carpet is the way to go in bedrooms, but others that say it is too expensive to replace and there are on-going costs of cleaning between tenants. Personally I have the tenants pay for cleaning, so this is a non-issue for me other than a few minutes to schedule the cleaning.
I have heard others say tile flooring because it lasts forever, but I hardly ever hear anyone talk about cleaning and sealing grout as a routine expense. I also hear people saying tile is too expensive and it breaks. I would go with a good quality tile and charge any breakage to the tenants. Cleaning is another matter, because in my area it is not customary to charge the tenant for tile cleaning as it is for carpet.
I have heard to only use linoleum in kitchens and baths because it does not crack/break and is cheap to replace.
Seems I have almost always heard NOT to use wood floors, but I have heard a lot of discussion recently on using Allure or similar wood-looking vinyl flooring. I have heard both good and bad things about Allure, but it is fairly cheap, lasts longer than carpet, and is water proof. I have heard of some people that use this in the entire house (bedrooms and basements included) because of the cost to durability, no cleaning, does not crack/break, and doesn't require cleaning like carpet does.
I went and looked at the Allure at Home Depot. It seems very thin. It is also a floating floor. This makes it easy to install, but doesn't seem as good for durability. Overall I think it might work well though and I am really considering making a switch to Allure or equivalent vinyl type flooring. Has anyone else done this? Are you doing the entire house? Are you happy with the results? How do you do stairs and vertical surfaces, or what do you use there? Carpet always seems to wear quickly on stairs because a lot more force is put right on the edge of the stair a lot more often, so I am looking for something other than carpet on stairs. What do you use?
So again, what is the consensus on the best flooring to use (where and why)?
I've used WPC vinyl flooring on my last 2 rentals. Been very happy with it. Here's some info about it...
Originally posted by @Drew Wiard:
I responded to this thread 4 years ago (see previous posts from a former noob). Being 4 years further into my investing, I am 100% luxury vinyl plank flooring. Period. Lumber liquidators gives me commercial discounts, so 5mm think flooring costs my $1.89/sq ft for NICE stuff.
That is cool. I assume that is just the cost of the flooring? What does it usually run for install, and how do you typically go about that?
I do more work on commercial properties than residential, but I'll tell you I've never had a hotel owner or multifamily property management company tell me they used LVT and went back to carpet. The maintenance is essentially zero. It looks great. It holds up. It's very cost effective. It just makes sense.
Happy that this thread is seeing a second renaissance. I and putting plank LVT on first floor and basement. The stairs that connect the two are wooden risers and asbestos tile tread with metal nosing. I want to safely cover the tile.
The stairwell is pretty standard and the flooring guy at the business where I purchased the materials for the first floor said they have kits that match; nosing, tread and riser would be $1100. Is this insane?
I've read this thread, did some googling and it seems like covering stairs is expensive anyway that you go. Can anyone lead me in a direction for a reasonably priced tread/nose situation that will look nice and be glued to the top of the tile? I will likely paint the risers that exist.
Happy that this thread is seeing a second renaissance. I and putting plank LVT on first floor and basement. The stairs that connect the two are wooden risers and asbestos tile tread with metal nosing. I want to safely cover the tile.
The stairwell is pretty standard and the flooring guy at the business where I purchased the materials for the first floor said they have kits that match; nosing, tread and riser would be $1100. Is this insane?
I've read this thread, did some googling and it seems like covering stairs is expensive anyway that you go. Can anyone lead me in a direction for a reasonably priced tread/nose situation that will look nice and be glued to the top of the tile? I will likely paint the risers that exist.
Originally posted by @Sarah Hertweck:Happy that this thread is seeing a second renaissance. I and putting plank LVT on first floor and basement. The stairs that connect the two are wooden risers and asbestos tile tread with metal nosing. I want to safely cover the tile.
The stairwell is pretty standard and the flooring guy at the business where I purchased the materials for the first floor said they have kits that match; nosing, tread and riser would be $1100. Is this insane?
I've read this thread, did some googling and it seems like covering stairs is expensive anyway that you go. Can anyone lead me in a direction for a reasonably priced tread/nose situation that will look nice and be glued to the top of the tile? I will likely paint the risers that exist.
What did you end up doing? I would just do the steps in oak or pine and stain them to match flooring.
Want to put LVT (good shaw kind, $4 sq/ft( in a high end rental $3.5k+ a month since I don't have resale in mind. My wood floors scratch easily and can't be "buffed" out neatly... they aren't 1 inch planks from a tree i cut down in the backyard. Renters with younger kids (it's very much high quality schooling family area) aren't going to tread delicately.
@Sarah Hertweck as someone who sold flooring for a while I have some insight into the stair nose problem. I would suggest going to a Floor and Decor and looking at their returned stair nose pieces. Typically the unfinished wood pieces will be the cheapest (and the store wants to get rid of the returned stuff so ask for a deal) so I would buy those and stain them.
The only issue will be matching thicknesses. The best way to solve that problem is to add some sort of underlayment. If you are using vinyl you will need to add more layers of underlayment to match the stair nose thickness.
I hope this helps!
The thread that won't die. So many people said allure and I was going to say Lifeproof but then...
"LifeProof luxury vinyl plank flooring, formally called Allure, is sold exclusively at Home Depot."
Yes matching stair nosing and trims are expensive. If you chose to go with MDF or HDF trims with a picture film there is also the issue that the nosing doesn't extend over the end of the step usually requiring some type of fill in piece. Mucho labor. MY suggestion especially or any one who does multi family housing is looking at color coordinating METAL trims. Most have some trim that wil extend over a 2 " stair( In the long ago past stair treads were done with OAK 1" tread but since the 70s 90% or more builders use a 2x10 plank to make the treads.) Metal trims come in bronze and other no traditional and THEY DON'T BREAK OFF with intensive use in stairwells. Remember no one guarantees materiasl on stairs because of the use pattern; ie you may have a 3 foot tread but EVERYONE walks in the center 1 foot hence the higher maintenance and wear factor. Painting the riser black is probably the best idea since treads MOVE when you walk on them putting pressure on riser materialist to pop off . Honestly our industry doesn't have the trades we did in the past to do it correctly. But also cut your cost by buying 1/4" inch or smaller shoe molding and use it where the tread meets the riser in stead of a cove metal. Lastly, Carpet Metal stair nosing that is applied on top of the tread material may not be pleasing to the eye but you need that 1 and a half inch of tread to keep someone's foot from sliding off the step. If I was doing a rental or multifamily that is the only way I'd finish the steps to cut down on falls or slips.
I was all sold on the LVP (lifeproof or comparable). However, I just did a scratch test myself with pergo outlast plus laminate vs lifeproof LVP vs lumber liquidator brand lvp vs nucore lvp (Floor and Decor brand). It was really no contest. The pergo laminate was way better than the others. Has anyone else ever tried this or have any similar experience? So for me, I'm worried about scratches with tenants more than having purely waterproof floor. Maybe this is just a laminate vs lvp thing and laminates are better scratch protected due to their nature or something. I have heard someone say but this test was pretty clear to me. Anyone else have any real experience based info on this? (and please don't just comment on wear layer thickness because that is not the key in the scratch test. The top vinyl companies even with thinner wear layers that use aluminum oxide or ceramic beads will outperform just a thick urethane wear layer from the knock off brands when it comes to a scratch test). The only real way to know is to try it. I tried it using a quarter (coin) on samples.
Thank you for sharing, Ned. I've had the good fortune of reviving hardwood floors that are being well taken care of by tenants.
I've just encountered the first property in which I will have to use a lam or LVP alternative. I'll keep your test in mind during my search.
Originally posted by @Ned Cavasian:I was all sold on the LVP (lifeproof or comparable). However, I just did a scratch test myself with pergo outlast plus laminate vs lifeproof LVP vs lumber liquidator brand lvp vs nucore lvp (Floor and Decor brand). It was really no contest. The pergo laminate was way better than the others. Has anyone else ever tried this or have any similar experience? So for me, I'm worried about scratches with tenants more than having purely waterproof floor. Maybe this is just a laminate vs lvp thing and laminates are better scratch protected due to their nature or something. I have heard someone say but this test was pretty clear to me. Anyone else have any real experience based info on this? (and please don't just comment on wear layer thickness because that is not the key in the scratch test. The top vinyl companies even with thinner wear layers that use aluminum oxide or ceramic beads will outperform just a thick urethane wear layer from the knock off brands when it comes to a scratch test). The only real way to know is to try it. I tried it using a quarter (coin) on samples.
Are Vinyl floors sticky? I ask as I once lived in a 30+ year old house that had either Vinyl sheets or Linoleum sheets in kitchen floor and it was always felt stick when walking over it unless it was just cleaned?
Has anyone come across tenants who rejected your property because it did not have carpet in the bedrooms? Particularly applies to those who have put tile everywhere. Tile/Vinyl are hard and/or cold in winter, so wondering if that becomes a negative. I've seen some listings where they mention the type of flooring in the house, so wondering if that is a major issue.
waterproof LVT. hard to damage and you can replace sections instead of having to replace the entire floor
What decent lvp under $2.50 are you using? Anyone doing carpet on steps? Some installers and flooring cos are suggesting that.
Mike,
You've gotten a great collection of information. Here's some you may not have thought about. BEDBUGS. Still an issue for all landlords. And carpet is a natural nesting area for them. Go hard surface throughout nad let the tenant put down area rugs if they want a softer feel underfoot. The Click lock floating floors have come a long way in the last 9 years. Always go for a ridgidcore/SPC product. You find it superior to the others especially in resistance to denting. A 12 mil wear layer is more than enough for residential BUT make sure it has a quality FINISH over it such as Aluminium Oxide or Ceramic Bead(this is what makes it scratch resistant). It needs either a separate pad or an attached pad if their will be living areas below(for sound proofing). If you get a separate pad make sure it's for LVP/LVT and not for laminate, there is a difference. I don't recommend the drop n lock installation system except for the DIY and inexperienced crowd, get a 2G if you can find one. Don't buy smooth texture it scratches too easy. Personally I'd throw the extra money if you're planning to keep the rental into a glue down LVP, they are easier and cheaper to repair a single damaged plank and you avoid separation between planks from a faulty install which is common. In the bath in stead of ceramic if you want a grouted tile look check out groutable LVT. They use a premixed acrylic grout that self seals in 24 hours and if it discolors it usually just topical, easily cleaned. The box stores, like Menards and the other handle them as well as ones that have attached grouts to avoid the labor cost.
Hope this all helps. Good luck.
Originally posted by @Joe Mark:What decent lvp under $2.50 are you using? Anyone doing carpet on steps? Some installers and flooring cos are suggesting that.
Carpeting steps is the cheapest way to go. Hard surface on steps can be slippery but the biggest issue is the cost for labor and trims. ALSO many people don't know this but READ YOUR INSTRUCTIONS, steps may not be covered in the warranty. Carpet and padding definitely are NEVER covered by the maker for steps due to the fact that you only step in the center of a step and it takes too much abuse BUT it's cheaper to replace. Use a thin dense pad, avoids stumbles. While the cap and skirt looks good a waterfall install is much cheaper. If you do go hard surface use a metal stairnose that goes over the front top edge to help[ with slipping.
Originally posted by @Jacob A.:Are Vinyl floors sticky? I ask as I once lived in a 30+ year old house that had either Vinyl sheets or Linoleum sheets in kitchen floor and it was always felt stick when walking over it unless it was just cleaned?
Usually that is the result of using a cleaner that has a soap base which builds up over tile or using the no rinse cleaner(no such thing) or using one of the wet swiffer mops which leaves tremendous buildup over time. I once pours undiluted white vinegar on one such and the surface bubbled like acid, but it removed it and after some additional cleaning it was back to new. One gallon of warm water to 1/4 cup white vinegar will maintain most floors BUT YOU MUST GO BACK AND RINSE THE FLOOR, maybe twice to get the dirt that was loosened; this is the part no one does so the dirt is still there and reattaches itself.
Best way to demonstrate this. Look at a used washcloth after it dries. When it was fresh it was nice and soft one use and it's hard as a rock. That's all the soap that is still in the washrag because none of us takes the time to rinse all the soap out. Just think how many gallons of water go through your hair in the shower to get all the soap out, same thing.
Originally posted by @Keith Lewis:Joe,
You've gotten a great collection of information. Here's some you may not have thought about. BEDBUGS. Still an issue for all landlords. And carpet is a natural nesting area for them. Go hard surface throughout nad let the tenant put down area rugs if they want a softer feel underfoot. The Click lock floating floors have come a long way in the last 9 years. Always go for a ridgidcore/SPC product. You find it superior to the others especially in resistance to denting. A 12 mil wear layer is more than enough for residential BUT make sure it has a quality FINISH over it such as Aluminium Oxide or Ceramic Bead(this is what makes it scratch resistant). It needs either a separate pad or an attached pad if their will be living areas below(for sound proofing). If you get a separate pad make sure it's for LVP/LVT and not for laminate, there is a difference. I don't recommend the drop n lock installation system except for the DIY and inexperienced crowd, get a 2G if you can find one. Don't buy smooth texture it scratches too easy. Personally I'd throw the extra money if you're planning to keep the rental into a glue down LVP, they are easier and cheaper to repair a single damaged plank and you avoid separation between planks from a faulty install which is common. In the bath in stead of ceramic if you want a grouted tile look check out groutable LVT. They use a premixed acrylic grout that self seals in 24 hours and if it discolors it usually just topical, easily cleaned. The box stores, like Menards and the other handle them as well as ones that have attached grouts to avoid the labor cost.
Hope this all helps. Good luck.