I’d rather trust a professional with a moisture meter to see if it’s dry (just after or even during a heavy rain would make me feel better) before fixing the ceiling.

@Marcus Auerbach I have seen marketed a closed-cell padding for basements desired to reject moisture associated with that space.

The basement was covered in mold, despite us purchasing our own dehumidifier for 200 dollars so we could uphold the mold and moisture addendum of the lease.

Because concrete is really porous it's very difficult to get everything out of it once it's in - usually you're only breaking down things right at the surface and they tend to bleed back through capillary action (moisture moving through the concrete).

I use over the range microwaves in all my rentals; it's just one less appliance renters need to bring and gains huge real estate in small kitchens, and the microwaves are almost the same cost as the hoods any more.As for the countertops the spots that always get ruined are the areas exposed to moisture; the clear poly repels the moisture and binds the sawdust together in the particleboard.

Have an expert look at it.I understand that you want to avoid setting untreated wood directly on concrete because the concrete attracts moisture that rots the wood. 

Moisture in ceiling; subfloor damage.Moisture in ceiling; staining and previous repairs.Moisture in baseboard and floor.Moisture in ceiling; staining.Moisture in ceiling.Roof replacement; address moisture and leaks.Exterior inspection; identify and fix moisture sources.Fix moisture damage.Electrical system overhaul; ensure safety and compliance.Temporary housing costs for tenants during repairs.

Crawlspaces/subfloors are particularly bad about humidity and moisture issues. 

But the electrical will be properly secured as well with a moisture barrier.

If in a high humidity area out a moisture absorber in the batter compartment and put it on your cleaners punch list to change out twice a monthhttps://a.co/d/hjR2Spd