I think you mean you have 3/4 tongue-and-groove white pine flooring.

So I had to cut 1.5 inch strips, with the locking groove, off full boards.

One time I butted the "groove" part of a board to a board I had cut that had no "tongue" because I did not want to waste a board so of course the pieces looked great initially when installed but later the one board would move when walked upon and create a gap.2) remove all baseboards and re-install them afterwards.

Hardwood floor is typically 3/4" thick and therefore can undergo about 10 standard refinishes before the flooring is compromised, and the tung-and-groove is exposed.

Usually, I'm in a groove and rarely stop after 15 mins.

All stained, and since all 3/4" tongue and groove, it was smooth and seamless.

Dick - I'll leave it to the pros to answer that one.UPDATE: Upon closer inspection, there are several important additional problems here. 1 - There is a step on part of the slab that is far taller than code allows. 2 - The main steps to my path are not perpendicular to the slab on the sides.3 - The grooves that were put into the patio for cracking aren't even close to being perpendicular to the structure of the house.4 - The staircase coming down from the house and the other step, as well as the landing in front of my door are on an incline.

The thread tape fills the grooves so when you tighten down there is no leak.

I had this on a house and I just put the tongue and groove boards over it and painted it.  

The contractor has told me that if he can't find the same laminate type with matching grooves he will need to do the entire floor.Does anyone have experience with a faux flooring type that might hold up better than wood laminate for this type of unit?