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All Forum Posts by: Account Closed

Account Closed has started 0 posts and replied 113 times.

Post: Finding A General Contractor

Account ClosedPosted
  • Medford, OR
  • Posts 114
  • Votes 70

@Jesse Casillas

Jesse, Here is a snippet from an article I wrote. I have posted this before so I apologize if it is redundant.

It first talks about ways to find a contractor then goes into ideas around veting them. 

Hope this helps.

First and foremost you are going to want to hire a GC with a good reputation. The easiest way to get a comfort level is to choose a GC that has been recommended by a friend. If you don’t know anyone who has hired a contractor you could google local contractors, building contractors, remodeling contractors, you get the idea or you could get a list from the local builders exchange.

Once you have contacted 3 contractors, you will want to sit down and have an interview with each of them. You do not have to do this separately, your time is valuable so set a time and hold a job walk.

This is where you meet with all three at the same time; go through your prints for a general idea of your needs.

Depending on the remodel at this time you can discuss a general budget for lighting, sinks if applicable, toilets if applicable ext. The reason for this exercise is to give the GC a general idea for budget. For example a lighting fixture could be $40.00 dollars from Home Depot or could be $500.00 dollars from Restoration Hardware, this is why most bids will come with a budget for fixtures. If you go over that budget you will need to pay for the extra.

A side note on this topic: Some contractors will put an extremely low budget number to make their bid appear much lower, this is why it is important to do a little homework and know what you want going in to your project.

During this first meeting you will also want them to supply you with a list of referrals, if the contractor is prepared they should have this list readily available, if they do not that could be your first red flag.

A benefit of meeting all three at the same time it will let them know you are serious about a competitive bid, they will sharpen their pencils.

Before you adjourn this meeting take the time to discuss time frames, what are their availabilities to start the job. Set a date when you want the bids to be in by. Do not be afraid to put tight timelines on this process, you are anxious to get going and there is nothing worse than waiting for a straggling bid delaying your decision.

Now that you have done this first step and the contractors are off creating a bid for you, take this time to do your research and qualify the contractor.

This is the time to call the referrals, contact the local state ccb.

One mistake people make after receiving the referrals is they don’t call. It doesn’t do any good to get the referrals unless you call them.

When talking with the referral ask these questions.

  • Was their work satisfactory?
  • Did they clean up at the end of each day?
  • Did they return your phone calls?
  • Were they on time?
  • Did they explain the contract thoroughly?
  • Did they finish on time?
  • If there were change orders were they discussed and put on a change order form and signed?
  • Did you get an itemized budget for owner chosen items?
  • Did they provide a valid state construction contractors board number?

Before choosing I recommend getting 3 quotes, this allows you to see a range in the pricing. If the contractors are reputable there quotes should be fairly close to one another. If one is super high and the other two are close, toss the high one out. If one is super low and the other two are close toss it out.

The benefits of getting multiple bids, it allows you to get an average cost and gives you choice. As you go through this process you should develop a warm and fuzzy feeling for one of the builders.

In addition to calling all the referrals on each bid you will want to get a hold of your states CCB, (construction contractors board).

You can google to find the states website, once there you can go to the contact us page for the phone number or you can find the link that says check a contractor or something similar.

When you hit this link you will be able to follow the prompts and find out a wealth of information on any contractor.

Items to look for:

  • Are they current with their license?
  • Have they had any claims?
  • Have they had any complaints?

I think you get the picture here, you really want to vet all contractors you are considering.

You can also ask the contractor for a list of projects they have done that wouldn’t mind if you stop by and look at the work. Here is one thing I know for sure. If the project turned out well the contractor will be proud to show it to you and if the clients were happy and like the work the contractor has done they will be exited to show off their new place. I mean who wouldn’t?

My wife and I just finished a 2300 sq foot remodel and are very excited to show friends what we have done.

Now that you have received all bids back it is time to go to work a pick a contractor, by this time you should be having a comfort level with a least one. If this person has the highest bid you will have to soul search to justify the additional cost.

Do not hesitate if the contractor you want has the highest bid, to negotiate. There are always places where the price can be shaved. A few examples could be in their contingencies, this is a random number to cover anything they may have missed in there bid. There also could be some additional money in the schedule, meaning if the project goes quicker than scheduled their general conditions for management should go down.

Most of the time the spread in quotes isn’t enough to sway your decision.

Post: Why are the baseboards turning brown?

Account ClosedPosted
  • Medford, OR
  • Posts 114
  • Votes 70

@Ryan Antista

Ryan, 

Could be bleeding wood. I have never seen this happen in any house I have remodeled, via bleeding wood. If this is a concern you could find an inconspicuous place and cut a small piece from the base and find out what kind of wood it is. Usually it will be pine or fir, sometimes poplar, at least with this sample you will know and can research if it is a bleeding type.

You could also grab a moisture meter and do some tests in the middle of the run and next to the door, this will give you a little more information before making a decision on which way to go.

I would also be looking for exterior leaks, has the caulking failed? is there proper flashing at the head of the door? Was the door ever installed properly, could be blowing under the door and wicking up. 

Look at your eaves and the condition of the roof in that area. I have had leaks starting at the ridge and end up at the window seal.

Pull the carpet back in that area and see if the moisture is getting to the subfloor.

These are a few areas I would look to help access the issue.

Post: Front porch support columns...approximate cost

Account ClosedPosted
  • Medford, OR
  • Posts 114
  • Votes 70

Charlotte,

@Juliano Pereira is correct, to many variables to give a correct answer.

Here is something else to think about. If you continue forward with this process and the appraiser lets this potential structural issue out of the bag you may not get a loan for this property with out it being fixed. I would get a contractor over there and get a real price. Your real estate agent should be able to organize this for you. That is, if you have one.

Again not knowing any of the parameters around this purchase, maybe cash?

Post: Toilet Rough In - Too Little Space

Account ClosedPosted
  • Medford, OR
  • Posts 114
  • Votes 70

Nicholas,

Before replacing a toilet, measure the rough in or make sure your plumber measures before buying.

To measure accurately, measure from the wall–NOT the molding–to the bolt caps.

It seems weird that you have 9 inches to the center of the flange.

Why not just return the wrong toilet and buy a 10 ".

I would avoid cutting into the wall, any time you jury rig something it will decrease the value of your house.

Post: Not exactly DIY but siding choices

Account ClosedPosted
  • Medford, OR
  • Posts 114
  • Votes 70

@Todd Michaels, you are welcome.

I like your thinking. It is smart to take away and make all the necessary improvements, this will insure longevity with your property. No sense in putting whip cream on dog sh!t.

If you haven't make sure to take the time to vet your subcontractors. 

Get their referrals and call them. Ask if they we punctual, did they stay on schedule, how did they communicate, were they tidy, did they stay on budget.

Check their license for issues with the contractors board.

If they have local jobs take the time to look at their work.

These few items even though time consuming can help make your life easier.

Post: I think I made a mistake...should I back out and lose $1700?

Account ClosedPosted
  • Medford, OR
  • Posts 114
  • Votes 70

@Emily Allred,

Emily, I never was one that liked to give any money away. For some $1700 is pocket change for some it is a make or break deal.

Here is another thought. Look into a lease option. You said the house is move in ready.

Find someone who wants to buy but can't at this time and do a lease option with them.

You can usually lease the house at a premium for the convenience, take the down to recoupe your $1700, set up the lease so a portion goes to the principle and their future down payment.

Make sure you have looked at every option before you throw good money away.

Post: Not exactly DIY but siding choices

Account ClosedPosted
  • Medford, OR
  • Posts 114
  • Votes 70

Todd, quick question. What is wore vinyl siding? do you mean worn?

I like the Hardie siding but you would need to remove the other siding first and get down to the plywood. I have seen them install the vinyl siding over old siding.

You know the saying, vinyl is final. Hardie siding will eventually need to be re painted.

If it were my property I would install the Hardie, I just like the way it looks and it is my opinion adds more value to the property.

I think this comes down to preference and what your pocket book can bare.

Post: Tools purchased to flip = expense?

Account ClosedPosted
  • Medford, OR
  • Posts 114
  • Votes 70

Brian, I have the same tool problem. My wife says I have three of everything, she is wrong, I think it is 4.

I write off all my tools regardless of their price, there is also depreciation.

If you are doing the work and like tools I am always a proponent of buying vs renting, need it once you will need it again.

As far as the write offs, make sure you have an accountant that plays in the gray areas, no sense in giving uncle sam more to waste.

Post: Water leaking in from Fieldstone Foundation

Account ClosedPosted
  • Medford, OR
  • Posts 114
  • Votes 70

Robert,

Looks like a pretty old house. Also looks like there isn't that much dirt outside the foundation with the window there. All the suggestions are valid above. 

I am of the mindset to remedy the problem vs reacting to the problem. I would be going down the tube to keep the water from coming into the house. Look into digging some soil and trench away from the house, put the proper foundation drains in, seal the foundation and be done.

Having moisture in the basement continuously makes for a very muskey environment, I have hated that in every old house I have lived in. In addition every house I have bought that had a sump pump was an auto deduction in my offer.

Post: Affordable tub/shower wall solutions?

Account ClosedPosted
  • Medford, OR
  • Posts 114
  • Votes 70

@Nicholas TenBrink, If I am reading you post correctly the error came when you put the den shield in first. Your tubs and surrounds are meant to be installed stud to stud, by installing the den shield you ate up valuable real estate.

It would be easier to remove the den shield and give yourself the room required to install the new system. Once installed you can do the sheetrock repair around the tub.

These tub systems if installed correctly will keep the water away from the wall so the substrate is not necessary.