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All Forum Posts by: Steve Balinski

Steve Balinski has started 23 posts and replied 58 times.

Post: Questions about painting kitchen cabinets

Steve BalinskiPosted
  • Roselle, IL
  • Posts 59
  • Votes 6

So here we are, 36+hrs later, the paint on the 1st door is still scratching with the back of my fingernail.  

Also, I went to sand the 2nd door (been 16hrs) and the paint seemed to ball up when I was sanding it, (see image).  The can says dry to touch after 1 hr, dry to recoat after 4 hrs.  What does this mean?

Post: Questions about painting kitchen cabinets

Steve BalinskiPosted
  • Roselle, IL
  • Posts 59
  • Votes 6
Originally posted by @Colleen F.:

Thermofoil is a more common older cabinet exterior and peels more then melamine. That is the what people think is contact paper on the cabinets.  Melamine is more brittle but they are both plastics  so you need to get some paint that adheres well to plastics.  If you sand too much you will reach the base wood which is composite/MDF. Look in the screw holes, if it looks like composite go light on the sanding. You can use filler but  if you take the wood down you may not get an even finish. You can also use some chemical treatments to get better adhesion, like a wilbond type product. It really depends on the surface.  Melamine takes long to dry so you need to wait between coats and it doesn't hold up the best although more coats and and poly sometimes helps. If its old its is one of those two surfaces

Thanks Colleen, on this next door im waiting 12hrs in between paint coats.  The can does say 4 but.....can't hurt and will bring me to a conclusion if its the paint or not.  The primer coats seem to be really stuck on there, definitely seems like the paint, but i'm willing to give it a few days to "harden" and see how it goes.

Post: Questions about painting kitchen cabinets

Steve BalinskiPosted
  • Roselle, IL
  • Posts 59
  • Votes 6
Originally posted by @Colleen F.:

It sounds like melamine cabinet finish. It is is sort of like almost a plastic wrap on the door.  The wood underneath is a composite so when you sand it down you will  get wood but not get a solid wood with a grain.  If you got solid wood then your answer is to sand to that wood before painting. The reason being there is a previous finish interfering with your paint adhesion.  

If it isn't solid wood you may be better off not sanding because it is a composite and you won't get a nice finish.  I think they make paint specifically for this melamine finish. 

 thats very interesting, you're the first to propose melamine, unless thats the same thing as contact paper.  None-the-less I would think that'd start to peel once I started sanding...this stuff does not peel.  Unless its because there seems to be a coat of Poly over it and it so old its just sort of bonded with the wood???  I could always sand it down and use a wood filler right?

Post: Questions about painting kitchen cabinets

Steve BalinskiPosted
  • Roselle, IL
  • Posts 59
  • Votes 6

I just used 60 grit to sand it, here is what the wood looks like.  I dont know what is on here!!! AAHH!  There is no "material layer" like a laminate that could just start to peel...it just sanded down to bare wood.  

Post: Questions about painting kitchen cabinets

Steve BalinskiPosted
  • Roselle, IL
  • Posts 59
  • Votes 6
Originally posted by @Steve Scheid:

It’s hard to tell what those cabinets are made of but with the right primer it shouldn’t matter. Have you primed all the cabinets or just that one door? Is it just the paint scratching or does it go all the way down to the wood cabinet?
It is typically all about the prep. I recommend cleaning/degreasing, scuff sanding with 180 grit and then using XIM 400 primer.  Extreme bond is good primer but nothing compares to XIM.  It will stick to everything.  Wait 24 hours and then apply the paint. Use the spec recoat times of that paint And then wait another 24 hours before you try the scratch test.  Paint needs to cure before it hardens completely.  Alkyd paint could take a full seven days and waterbase/latex could take up to three weeks.  You can apply polyurethanes over top the paints but it should not be necessary if you use the right prep and materials.

 I did do everything you stated with the prep.  I was not able to get XIM around here, S.W. is the only place who "carries it" and some stores are out, some don't even carry it.  The guy there said he knows people who have used it on glass fishtanks with success.  I don't think the primer is the issue because I tested it on a door, let it dry overnight....by the next day it seemed stuck on there pretty good, didnt scratch easily like the paint now is.  I'm going to sand it down and try again and wait 12+ hrs in between paint coats

Post: Questions about painting kitchen cabinets

Steve BalinskiPosted
  • Roselle, IL
  • Posts 59
  • Votes 6
Originally posted by @Marian Smith:

@Steve Balinski Paint hardens over time...cures. if you followed the primer instructions for recoat times and also the paint you should be good. Maybe just let the doors dry and harden up before installing. Maybe a week for close to a full cure. Fresh paint scratches pretty easily.

Could be right, I just hate wasting another weekend doing nothing.  I dont want to do anything else until I can confirm this test door is the end result I need for the rest of them.  

Post: Questions about painting kitchen cabinets

Steve BalinskiPosted
  • Roselle, IL
  • Posts 59
  • Votes 6
Originally posted by @Lynnette E.:

I have similar cabinets in one of my rentals.  The pattern is exactly the same.  It is a plastic like sheet over pressed wood from the 1970s.  If you take heat to the plastic like material at a point with a cut it will peel back.  That is what happened to the cabinet over the stove at my rental.  NOTHING will make it restick, not supper anything or gorilla anything.  The particle board under the plastic coating does not stand up to moisture, so its important to keep the plastic like covering intact.  It will swell up very large and very fast when exposed to moisture--from boiling water or the dishwasher venting.  

I would suggest that you replace the doors completely and have one of the companies come in that recover the cabinets with the surface laminate material.

I will be replacing the cabinets in my rental probably in the next turn over.  Nothing has held up at all.

 Problem with replacing the doors is I'd rather paint them rather than put a new layer of laminate on new cabinets.  + the cost to have someone do it, might as well replace them all.  It seems like they put a coat of Poly over the laminate.

Post: Questions about painting kitchen cabinets

Steve BalinskiPosted
  • Roselle, IL
  • Posts 59
  • Votes 6

I might, but I've seen so many young college kids there who clearly don't have painting experience, not sure I trust them.  I'll see if I can catch a store manager sometime.

Post: Questions about painting kitchen cabinets

Steve BalinskiPosted
  • Roselle, IL
  • Posts 59
  • Votes 6

Hello everyone, I could really use some help.

I'm not in a position to remodel my entire kitchen, but i have plenty of time and figured I'd try to paint my kitchen cabinets.

One of my biggest struggles is trying to figure out what is on the front of the doors.  They are dark compressed wood with a high gloss front.  Several people who came here *thought* it was a sheet of vinyl or similar material.  When I tried to sand it with 80grit, it didnt seem to do ANYTHING in regards to scuffing the surface (image above).  This makes me think is there possible lacquer or poly on top of just painted compressed wood?  Do I need a deglosser?  I had to hold the palm sander on it for a good 15 seconds for the top layer to start to come off...once it did, I could see the texture of the wood below it.

I then cleaned the doors with degreaser.  Next I used Sherwin Williams Extreme-bond, 1 hour later I sanded with 220 grit, applied a 2nd coat and then sanded 1 hr later.  I'm wondering if I applied the 2nd coat to soon?

Once the 2nd coat of primer was done I applied my first coat of Alkyd paint from Behr, waited 4 hrs, sanded, applied a 2nd coat.  I went down to check it out moment ago (3 hrs)

My biggest issue is it seems the front layer scratches very easily.  I took a light finger nail to it and it made a scratch mark.  Is this because i didnt wait long enough between primer coats or paint coats?  Do I need a layer of lacquer or poly over it? Should I need to do that in the first place? I've heard this Behr Alkyd paint is supposed to be really good.

Originally posted by @Jonathan Klemm:

@Steve Balinski - Completely understand your frustration, but I want to emphasize that your first deal doesn't have to be perfect. I know for me looking for a 3-4 unit in Chicago using FHA was almost impossible so I just settled for a 2 unit on my first deal. Obviously, the numbers weren't as good, but I found a heavy value add property and still was able to BRRRR it.

Also, I see you titled the post disappointed in BP, which is also understandable, but didn't your lender or agent let you know of this rule?  It should be common knowledge to anyone working with investors.  If you arent working with a lender yet you might want to reach out to @Michael Facchini or @Michael Barbari, I know both of them work with investors.


@Sarita Scherpereel, @John Warren, & @Brie Schmidt -what do you guys tell your clients that can't find properties that meet the self-sufficiency rule?

They did let me know of this rule, after I had finally found a 4-unit property I liked and sent them all the information needed to get a loan to get proof of funding and eventually put an offer on it.