All Forum Posts by: Russell W.

A lot of good points mentioned here. Getting the HVAC unit into the ceiling space should be your primary concern. Like was already asked, is there a scuttle large enough to get a furnace and evaporator coil through? If so, you can have a horizontal system installed. A quick google image search will show you how it's designed to fit in a tight space like you're describing. Another mention about smaller ducts, there are "high velocity" systems that allow for insulated, flexible, round ducts as small as 2" diameter. This could also make the install easier in a tight space so the installer is not messing around with sheet metal.

I have a similar scenario in one of my properties, although I wouldn't necessarily say it's typical. The HVAC for the first floor unit supplies conditioned air into the common hallway/stairway. Your tenants will never notice the difference. If the concern is that they're "paying to heat/cool common space" that's not the case. The HVAC unit is working no more or less by conditioning that space, so long as it's a) not pulling return air from the common space, b) is not reading a thermostat temperature from the common space, and c) not dumping an incredible amount of air into the space (all of which should not be happening regardless). If it puts your mind or your tenants' mind at ease, you can install a damper just before the register and keep it nearly closed. Enough conditioned air will still bleed through to heat/cool the space. It doesn't necessarily need to hold the same temperature as the apartment.

Not sure why the seller’s agent would have any concern for what you plan to do with the property after you purchase. I would agree with your husband that the shared space will cause problems. It might seem ok in theory, but in practice you’re bound to have issues. Looks like you have a lot of options for putting laundry on the first floor; anywhere above either basement bathroom or the utility room where you already have plumbing piped to that location will only take minimal additional plumbing. The only question is what rooms on the first floor are above those three rooms in the basement? (i.e. you obviously wouldn’t want your laundry in your living room, etc) 

Crushing It In Apartments and Commercial Real Estate by Brian Murray. An excellent read 

Do you hold a security deposit? I would give them written notice with a defined timeline as to when it needs to be cleaned up. If they don't comply (and you hold a security deposit) I would hire something like 1-800 Got Junk to come remove the stuff and assess the cost against their security deposit. 

A high velocity system is your best bet for a home that was not originally laid out for a ducted system. It gives you the "flexibility" of using the 2" flex duct, as you mentioned, to accommodate otherwise difficult runs. Second floor can be fed from the attic (assuming you have one) and first floor from the basement. Of course you'll need to open some walls for the larger trunk lines, and potentially the basement ceiling if there is one. The advantage of a mini-split system is that you wouldn't open a bunch of walls, however then you have unsightly units scattered throughout the home. In terms of time of year, certainly summer is not the best time if you are looking to get a more competitive price. The transitional seasons of spring or fall would be better. Oftentimes contractors are so busy with regular service calls in peak summer/winter months that they can't reliably take a construction job, or they'll quote you a higher price to see how bad you want it and make it worth their while. 

True story: I had an inspection walk through yesterday for a property I’m under contract on. I was making small talk with one of the tenants and asked if it gets cold in the apartment during the winter. She said it gets SO cold and the furnace runs all the time. After I commiserated with her a bit I casually checked the furnace filter. It was absolutely caked with dust. Looks like it had never been changed. This is why I choose to change filters myself 

I have it in my leases that the tenant is responsible for changing filters and that "failure to do so can cause damage to the HVAC system". At the start of their lease I make sure I have enough filters for a one year supply for them.

That being said, I always change the filters myself regardless because it only takes a minute and the time spent is well worth mitigating the risk of damaging the unit.

Probably not telling you anything you don't already know, but the most logical place to put it is directly below the 2nd floor bathrooms, but that puts it right in your Great Room. I'd be interested to know where the drain/waste/vent stack from the 2nd floor comes down to. The answer to that will largely dictate where you can put a first floor bath, unless you plan for this to be a more extensive project. If it were up to me, I think I would change the orientation of the kitchen to be more like an L-shape to connect the kitchen with the dining room better. Given where the laundry is you may be able to put a bathroom where the current pantry is, but I don't know if that's weird to have to walk through the kitchen space to access the bathroom. Just some thoughts 

@Michael Johnson There is A LOT of paperwork involved in getting the unit accepted for a CHA voucher (in fact this is one of the downsides that hasn't been mentioned, but one small error in the paperwork jeopardizes the timeline for getting a tenant to move in) but one area you have to fill in is the "requested rent amount". I always swing for the fences when I fill that in, knowing that even if I fall short it will still (very likely) be approved at a market rate. Oddly enough, they have approved my big ask each time I've brought in a new tenant or requested a rent increase for an existing tenant. 

I can't speak to how long getting the building approved by CHA takes, as mine was already approved when I had purchased it, but the individual unit inspection typically takes less than an hour. Depending on whether or not you pass, the follow up inspection might be a week later depending on how busy their inspectors are. On my most recent inspection I was failed for not having the unit number on the entry door in the common stairwell... yes, they will fail you for something that simple. Now, if I had a #2 sticker laying around I could have slapped it on the door right then and there and they would have been fine with it, but it was a lesson learned for me. Other simple things include grounding/reversed polarity of outlets (you can buy an outlet tester at Home Depot for $5), using foil-faced tape at furnace & water heater flue pipe connections, operable smoke/CO detectors, cracked/chipping/peeling paint if your applicant has children under the age of 6 (I think?), among others. It really just depends on how the inspector is feeling that day, and how many more inspections they have scheduled the rest of the day.