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All Forum Posts by: Nathan W.

Nathan W. has started 9 posts and replied 129 times.

Post: 10 single houses vs A 10-unit building

Nathan W.Posted
  • Alexandria, VA
  • Posts 140
  • Votes 45

My question would be why are we trying to compare COC returns for a financed multi and a non-leveraged portfolio of SFRs, instead of using cap rates? Am I missing something here?

Originally posted by @Brandon Hall:

@Edward Stephens

Your foregone earnings are absolutely going to be a cost of the withdrawal. You may be able to earn more in real estate, but don't assume that foregone earnings won't play a role.

Let me demonstrate with examples. I'm going to assume you are in the 25% tax bracket, so right off the bat this withdrawal costs you 35% (25% + 10% penalty). I'm also going to assume you are withdrawing $10,000 (you can apply your actual number to the examples below).

Example 1 -  You withdraw $10,000 in 2013. Your immediate cost of the withdrawal is $3,500 leaving you with $6,500. Additionally, since the S&P 500 returned 32% in 2013, your withdrawal costs you another $3,200 in foregone earnings ($10,000*1.32). Your cash remaining after the withdrawal is $6,500 and the total cost of the withdrawal is $6,700. How long will it take you to simply break even (a 103% return)? Answer: a really long time (at least 5 years).

Example 2 - You withdraw $10,000 in 2014. Your immediate cost of the withdrawal is $3,500 leaving you with $6,500. Additionally, since the S&P 500 returned 13% in 2014, your withdrawal costs you another $1,300 in foregone earnings ($10,000*1.13). Your cash remaining after the withdrawal is $6,500 and the total cost of the withdrawal is $4,800. How long will it take you to simply break even (a 74% return)? Answer: a really long time (at least 3.5 years).

Example 3 - You withdraw $10,000 this year. Your immediate cost of the withdrawal is $3,500 leaving you with $6,500. Lucky for you, the S&P 500 crashed 10%! Your withdrawal saved you $1,000 in potential losses ($10,000*0.10). Your cash remaining after the withdrawal is $6,500 and the total cost of the withdrawal is $2,500. How long will it take you to simply break even (a 38% return)? Answer: not as long as the other examples, but still a long time (at least 2 years).

As you can see, it's a bad idea. Not only will it take forever to break even, but these examples don't take into account the accumulation of compound earnings that you are missing out on. Additionally, you have to be a market wizard and predict a down market for a withdrawal to even come close to making sense (and it still doesn't). 

On top of that, you have to earn around 20% returns (the rough metric I was using to calculate the years in my examples) on your real estate investments - do you really think you can do that as a new real estate investor? 

I'm not trying to dissuade you from your real state goals. I LOVE real estate and LOVE the fact that other people want to jump in. But you have to make smart decisions, and an early 401(k) withdrawal is not one of them. It costs too much money. At the very least, stop contributing to your 401(k) but DO NOT take a withdrawal. Create a budget and develop good financial habits before diving into real estate. Investing in a duplex will not solve your financial problems (assumption based on the need for a hardship withdrawal). 

"Rule No.1: Never lose money. Rule No.2: Never forget rule No.1." - W. Buffett

Let me know if you have any questions. 

 You clearly know your stuff, so let me challenge this a bit with something that kicks around in my head (that I have admittedly never done the math on because it gets complicated quickly).  But what considerations do you give to the fact that the withdrawal would be of before tax money?  Meaning, your recommendation to save organically and budget and what not implies to do so with after tax money from your W2 job, correct?

If so, he has already paid taxes on that money, and had to earn 33% more or so than what he actually has at his disposal.  That should be part of the equation.  

Furthermore, what is his cost basis in the meantime? If it takes him 3 years to save up for a down payment for his home, he is pissing his money away in rent.  You are from DC so I know you know that rent is cheap (har har), but this should be taken under consideration when this advice is given, should it not?

While I do agree that a hardship withdrawal in this situation is probably not a good idea, I think part of the picture is missing in your rebuttal.  

The hard money loan seems like a better deal in any case, and the private loan from a willing family member or potential business partner would be the best, IMO.

Post: Borrow from 401k for down payment

Nathan W.Posted
  • Alexandria, VA
  • Posts 140
  • Votes 45
Originally posted by @Brian Eastman:

@Nick Weidner 

A lot of folks here on BP tout the idea of a 401(K) loan for a property purchase.  The thing that is missed by most is the fact that the $25K loan will likely cost you in about $35K.  Is that worth it to you?

The issue is that while you do not pay taxes or penalties on the borrowed funds, you are replacing the pre-tax dollars in the plan with after-tax dollars out of your pocket.  In addition to the interest on the loan (which does go to the plan), you are effectively paying whatever your marginal tax rate is on top.  So, if your tax rate is 28%, that $25K will cost you $35K in new earnings to replace.

 You may a valid point but another angle to view it from is that you are borrowing $25k from a tax free account.  The relevance being that if you wanted to save up that $25k in the first place, outside of the 401k, you would have to have done it with after tax dollars.  So you are effectively having to "earn" $35k either way. 

I would much rather borrow funds that have been growing tax free, matched by my employer no less, than to save up $25k from my paycheck.  Especially when the interest on that money is not only being paid back to my account, but in future year inflated salary dollars to boot.

Post: Cash flow but no appreciation

Nathan W.Posted
  • Alexandria, VA
  • Posts 140
  • Votes 45
Originally posted by @Account Closed:
Originally posted by @Beau Walsh:

I'm currently trying to decide what to do and would like some advice. I've sold my live in flip and it didn't go as planed. You can see my other post for more details. Now I'm looking at a different strategy. I've identified an area out side the city that is in my budget that I can cash flow on with 5% down. It's a three bed three bath townhouse. Because it's a 5% down mortgage I would live in it for the minimum amount of time I have to till I can rent it out and then move out and rent somewhere cheaper to save money. My only concern would be this area hasn't appreciated because all the new products being built.  My girlfriend purchased a townhouse in this area 8 years ago and it's worth $20k less then it was from new 8 years ago.   It seem like a lot of new product is priced at the same as the older town homes but are about 100-200 square feet smaller.  I can find other areas closer to the city that have  appreciated about 7% per year but they don't cash flow.   Do you think it's a better choice in these other areas that might appreciate a bit more because there's a new skytrain linking  the downtown core coming in 2016 but don't cash flow ? 

Beau, use your SMARTS. If an area that cash fauxs is only selling at 5 times gross rents (say 1,000 rents selling for $60,000 5 GRM) but the same market rent of $1,000 a month is selling for $120,000 10 GRM ya gotta ask yourself why. Same size house, same rent, should have similar expenses so WHAT is different? It is the MARKET that is saying screw cash faux! I want PROFIT! Look at the people telling you to go for initial cash faux. Most have an interest in selling crap property and try to fool you into thinking you are going to get some guaranteed $200 a month per door. YET, the MARKET (not just their shills that are paid thousands to get your dollars) is saying OK, the market rent is $1,000 but it is so sketchy that for the RISK I am only willing to pay you 5 times the annual gross rents. See, if that rent was guaranteed the property price would be bid up to the point that, well, it wouldn't cash flow!

If your stated appreciation rate is 7% for a reasonably long time and there is no expectation of that declining then you can count on $8,400 in appreciation whether you are a bad landlord or not!  You don't have to speculate on a tenant.  Any rent coming in is icing on the cake!  LOL.

 Man all I have to do is state that my appreciation rate is 7% for a reasonably long time, then I can count on it no matter what? I have been doing it all wrong.

I will just be honest with you.  The likely reason, in my opinion, that you are not getting any responses is because your writing is awful.  Your wall of text and random ellipses read like Charlie Brown's teachers.

Post: eRentpayment

Nathan W.Posted
  • Alexandria, VA
  • Posts 140
  • Votes 45
Originally posted by @Kristen T.:
Thanks Rick! I had also thought about making it the lesser amount just due on the 28th, and then charging a late fee on the 1st, but they are concerned with this option that it would show as late against their credit, which I can understand. I appreciate your willingness to give a hand if needed!

 I may be wrong, but you have the option to not report their transactions to the credit bureaus.  Although if they do want it to be reported, I can understand them not wanting it to be reported as delinquent on the first.

I use Erentpayment and am happy with their serivce.  Their CS reps are very responsive and super helpful, but their software options are a bit clunky and not very elegant as they do not have the ability to account for situations which you describe here. I gave one of my tenants a $120 discount on rent last month because sewer plumbing issues kept him out of the unit for a few days.  We were able to basically brute force attack this into the erentpayment system, using the customer service rep to temporarily lower the rent amount due, but it was not at all an elegant solution.

I think with a bit of software architecture rework, erentpayment would be the best option out there. As it is, they are still great and the company I choose to use, but sometimes frustrating to navigate.

Post: sub2 rental?

Nathan W.Posted
  • Alexandria, VA
  • Posts 140
  • Votes 45
Originally posted by @Darren Budahn:

Nathan-

You should ask some of the veterans on BP what their thoughts are.  I'd reach out to Brian Gibbons. 

Nevertheless, whats your exit strategy if the note did get called due?  Sell and bring 30k to closing?  You can't refinance with no equity.  Walk away and ruin the seller's credit for years?  That could be a big problem. 

Yes, my exit strategy would be to walk away if it got called due.  The seller is in no worse of a situation than they are in now, with tremendous upside if things work out.  Unfortunately, not all deals are winners and not everyone can be helped.  Of course, I would be completely up front with the seller from the get go that some things are out of my control, but what I am offering is an opportunity to help them maintain their credit and get out of a property that they can not afford.  I do not have any ethical qualms about this as long as communications are honest.  Sometimes things just don't work out...

Post: sub2 rental?

Nathan W.Posted
  • Alexandria, VA
  • Posts 140
  • Votes 45
Originally posted by @Darren Budahn:

I certainly wouldn't recommend taking over a property subject 2 that is upside down 30k

 Why not? If it is cash flowing each month, and paying down that underwater note, and buyer presumably has no money of his own into the deal, then what is the problem? Just too thin of a deal for you?

Post: Need advice whether to sell my house or rent it?

Nathan W.Posted
  • Alexandria, VA
  • Posts 140
  • Votes 45

You said you were getting a combined $2200 for the apt/house in your first paragraph, but stated at the end it was $500 + $1200? Where is the additional $500 coming from?

I don't have much advice for your situation since I have no idea what your holding costs are, but it sounds like it is cash flowing pretty well.  If it is cash flowing more than you would pay in rent, it is probably an ok deal to keep as a  rental.

I did notice that you said that you have to wait 2 years until you can count the income from the property towards a loan--that is not actually true for all loans.  I don't know about Freddie, but Fannie underwriting guidelines now allow you to claim income that you claimed against your taxes immediately.  It also allows you to use an executed lease for 75% credit if you haven't filed taxes on the property yet (say you just started renting it in January with a lease).  A lot of lenders will ahve stricter guideliens than this, but that can just show you what is available.

Good luck

Post: 23 year old applicant w 0 credit score

Nathan W.Posted
  • Alexandria, VA
  • Posts 140
  • Votes 45

This is a very easy solution--either require double down payment (probably supplied by his parents) or get his parents to co-sign or guarantee the lease.  If he seems like a good kid, has a job, and has favorable landlord references I would rent to him with no qualms about it.