An entity will need to be done pretty soon if you have anything to lose.Always remember to do the math analysis and try to look at the prospective property or at least have a clause in the sales contract that allows you some time (usually about 15 days) to make a detailed inspection and possibly back out of the deal without a penalty that will hurt you too much.  

They are hands-off, institutional grade real estate investments, and they allow you the option to diversify. 

At the moment these are the only strategies I know of that  can potentially allow me to generate quick funds so that I can get into other kinds of deals.I'm hoping other experienced investors can share experiences and insights to these concepts and guide me in the right direction.

I'm surprised they'd allow six owners to live there and not pay into an association.

Repeated police calls as nuisance, allowing eviction.New felony convictions = eviction.

-i searched on google maps and it has this amazing feature that allows you to see the street in "3D" so with the mouse on my computer i "drove" around the neighborhood i would like to wholesale in, (where i think the best deals FOR THE BUYER) will be, not for my personal gain. with wholesaling, when doing research on properties, its easy to get excited about what you can potentially make, but anyone who has read "think and grow rich" knows that any profit is a reward. my motivation for wholesaling houses in the "hood" is because it is my home.

This allows you to be a stronger negotiator as you go into it with the backing of funds.

Normal additions like what you're trying to get quotes are from 120-200/sf out the door, at 200/sf, you're in the high part, that's 80k, allowances for extra ordinary fixtures shouldn't be above 5k.

You also want to check on the possibility that the plan allows for in-service distributions.

Or could I find smaller lenders that would allow me to put down a smaller downpayment?