I just saw that there are now (pricey) LED replacements for those long fluorescent tubes.

Check used building supply stores to replace the fluorescent lights in both rooms though.

You should be able to replace the innards of a toilet, change the wax ring, change all the plumbing under a sink (supply lines, shut off valves, p trap and other pipes) and above a sink (faucet and cartridges), replace the agitator dogs of a washer, replace the heating element of an electric dryer, change the air filter of your central air, replace the ignitor of a gas furnace, replace heating elements of an electric furnace, replace the ballast of a fluorescent light, the list goes on if you want to make more money in rental property near you.

Testing is inexpensive, and is done with portable X-Ray Fluorescence machines (we use the Thermo Niton units).

Very often, LED bulbs can be used as direct replacements for existing halogen/incandescent/fluorescent etc.

The driver, similar to a fluorescent ballast, will burn out quickly if it doesn't receive the proper voltage.

If there is a laundry area, I had one tenant once request a fluorescent fixture over the laundry area; that was inexpensive to do, with a pull-chain switched fixture.

These offer much more positive control than a conventional thermostat in a lockbox in the hallway.For electrical, the obvious...switch to cfl's or T8 fluorescents with electronic ballast; High pressure sodium or other efficient exterior lights that should be on dusk to dawn sensors only.

There are some requests (or demands) that are reasonable ("Could you install a fluorescent fixture with a pull chain above the basement laundry?"

It is possible to get lights rated "non insulation-contact", but for those, you have to build a box around the fixture up in the attic if you ever want to add insulation.Also, if you get can lights that take incandescent or compact fluorescent bulbs, install the correct bulbs - usually reflector bulbs.