Well Chris M. guess with the non-commercial, My gripe is that I would expect to get a lower down payment, but when they classify my property as commercial, that seems to automatically require 20-25% down.Julie Marquez that is good information to think about and I will certainly ask the question next week, if for no other reason than to present as an knowledgable investor.

You will also find variations in how different people and markets classify properties.  

If you want a tear down, that means demo all walls, if you remain 1-2 walls (maintain only the studs) that would classify as a remodel.

Once that happens, tell all of those suppliers that PO Numbers are required, they could not bill you if PO # is not present (this applies to home depot as well, my guys can't continue to checkout if they don't input a PO# or project name), this will force most transactions to be self "Class"ified.

We have encountered companies which will not underwrite knob-and-tube or aluminium wiring {which can be perfectly safe}, but never one that refused paper/fabric-covered wiring.What does your insurer classify as "fabric/cloth covered wiring" {I cannot really see the pictures closely enough).  

I'm using classes in Quickbooks to keep track of my properties but how do I classify the expenses for the property we didn't buy?

(any help on properly classifying this will be appreciated) And then you have to form a new LLC to become the trustee of the other 3 real estate trusts that you want the original LLC to be replaced.

I would do at least a 20% down on a commercial loan for 5+ units so that it is classified commercial and you can have more control over the price and resale of the home in the future. 

Thanks, I actually didn't even think about simplifying it as simply classifying them as roommates.

I would classify my neighborhood as blue collar, lower working class.