Furthermore I would recommend north of I-285 also known as the "Perimeter".

Most contractors will not shoot you straight with that info, but if there is a warranty it doesn't really matter because they will shim it when it moves anyways (provided they remain in business).Some considerations if you take the house:Keep the perimeter soils moist with a soaker hose.

the egress window shouldn't be a big deal if it's a walk out basement...just have a guy do some demo work and then frame it up for a window..use treated lumber for anything that touches block/brick/ground..if it's block or brick on the perimeter, have a mason come in after him to make it look good...make sure to verify egress requirements..in my area they get complicated..windows have to have so much surface area of glass, so much square feet of openable area (can't open both sashes at the same time), so much distance from floor, etc.

The vapor barrier should help in keeping the moisture off of the floor insulation.Are you digging a trench around the perimeter of the house and laying perforated pipe or are you just letting the water go to the sump pit naturally?

I am not even sure if this might be the right place for a little bit more input.Apparently several months ago someone lost control of their car, drove off road, through a perimeter fence and through the sliding doors of a condo in her association.

I would be curious to see the work you are doing inside the perimeter as far as land accumulation goes.

I only asked 3 out of the 29 homes around the perimeter and 2/3 wanted to buy.

Tax record usually have a perimeter measurement they base total SF off.

We will dig around the perimeter ofthe home from 1 to 2 ft., inspect the mortar joints and bricks, if any deficiencies (holes) arefound we will patch the hole with hydraulic cement.

If the room is squarish, even quicker is buying a rug that leaves 1-2' around the perimeter.