Thanks John, the LVP that you buy, if it has the underlayment included (moisture barrier) is that enough for you and your basements or do you put a moisture barrier anyway?

Appears that he redone the ceiling and moisture damage in baseboards).

There is also some moisture stains in the roof.Wires on the outside of the house seems to be defective.

If you have made any effort to reasonable air seal the building envelope, then you need the range hood to extract stale air and humidity as a regular air exchanger will not typically be able to adapt to accommodate cooking.Even if your house is not tight, it is still appropriate to properly vent the cook top to prevent moisture damage and grease build-up on the ceiling above.

Also thinking of buying moisture meter to check reading.

Could also be the damage you noticed on the roof while looking at it from the backyard or moisture you saw under the kitchen sink that "could" cost a lot of money to repair.

I have it under contract for $150k + Closing Cost($5-7k)[not big fan of the closing cost] so far I have no hard money invested.During our due diligence we found a lot of moisture damage to the flooring due some leaky sinks and water heater and I personally think neglected maintenance.

Anything thinner will telegraph the highs and lows. 2) if you need or want to glue down and heat or moisture is a issue, DON'T use a pressure sensitive adhesive EVER!

Also buy a moisture meter to carry around when inspecting. 

People take shower some longer than others 365 x 46 x persons the amount of vapor moisture where did they go?