Is it surface condensation or is the sheetrock actually wet?

Without going into all the details, the scope of work includes:- Approximately 2850 sqft (2500 of which needs work)- New flooring throughout (combination of laminate/carpet in living/bedroom areas, floor tile in bathrooms and kitchens)- 3 "new" kitchens to include cabinets/counters (initial thoughts are entry level plywood/wood combo boxes and doors + entry level granite or other hard surface).- 3 "new" bathrooms to include vanities and shower wall tiling (again, budget-level materials)- Interior paint to include ceiling, walls, baseboards/trim and window casingsYes, I understand this is a LOT of work with a ton of variables that revolve around the choice of finishings, but I'm looking to gauge feasibility for labor costs associated with this type of "cosmetic+" job.

If you think any part of Tarrant County is "white hot", then Richardson & Far North Dallas must be the surface of the Sun for the last 24-months.  

If someone who claims to be a wholesaler presents a "deal" to you, and you know differently from just a quick surface check, a little correction or expectation of criteria, might be just enough to do 1 of 2 things: 1) Absolutely nothing (no love lost and you tell them never to contact you if that's what they're going to be presenting, OR 2) have someone working for you to bring you exactly what you need.Now, of course, the mentoring may go deeper.

I have been using Buildium, it looks good on the surface but it can not handle Credit Card accounts. 

Maybe everything seems OK on paper, but you have an intuition that says there's something untoward beneath the surface.

Yo Jerry ,,,hope all is well up in "Gods Country"About your project;The easy answer is .when dealing with decomposed,rotten or failing pipe especially "rough cast iron drain pipe" it is best to simply remove and replace the original bad material.You want clean smooth surfaces on your drain lines especially if this is a rental,,it assures proper draining and trouble free service .In this case,Jerry I would take my time and do a thorough analysis and inspection of these original drain lines.I would certainly invite a competent local family owned and operated plumbing company to perform a sewer video camera inspection and make you a dvd showing the condition of the drainlines.If you have cracked cast iron pipe above ground its very likely you have more of it along with cracked 4" red clay drainpipe underground.If this is the case ,you must bite the bullet and have it replaced.Cracked pipe can be saved with epoxy "lining systems" but I'm not crazy about them.Yeah they are OK if done right,but at the end of the day you still have cracked crummy pipe with a liner.I like to dig up ,remove and replace bad drainpipe.Another better alternative is Trenchless Pipe Replacement or "Pipe Bursting" ,,,with this process you break the original cracked pipe out of the way and actually "pull " new PE polyurethane drainpipe using the old pipe as a guide or conduit.Check out the many excellent animated and real video footage  demos of the process on You Tube,,,,,I dont like mixing cast iron with the black ABS plastic drain pipe.I like one or the other.No hub cast iron pipe is much more durable than ABS but really doesnt cost much more.However ABS will work fine if properly installed,that means pipe and fittings are glued properly and horzontal pipe is installed and "hung" at a 1/4" inch per foot grade.You asking me about burying Fernco rubber "boot" fittings underground.I dont like them .Burying a UPC code approved "No Hub Coupling" which is a black neoprene sleeve covered by a pliable stainless steel jacket is fine.Again if its installed properly.Youll need whats called a no hub torque wrench and you tighten these suckers up to 72 inch pounds.Your friendly counterman at the local Plumbing Supply House will show you how they work.But while you there,,,I would make friends with that counterman and at least ask for a referal to a competent local plumber that takes on small projects invite him to look at your job and get an honest opinion of the condition of your drainlines and whats needed to correct things.Then youll know without a doubt whether its a DYI project or a case where your better off hiring a pro,Good luck Jerry and hope this helpsDD in L.A 

Problem is, as I see it with hammer tactics, if the deal blows up and the agreement surfaces, regardless of your intentions you may then be seen as predatory in the dealings putting you at a disadvantage in any court of equity, so I avoid such ploys to ensure I'm wearing the white hat.

in one spot, separate area in same room has a large now white area damaged—surface of flooring removed – appears sanded down, several rooms have suffered deep gauges ruining surface of the laminate flooring in all cases.

Wood doors do swell when wet so it may be that painting/sealing the surface of the door as well as adding/replacing weather stripping will help.