The 110v dryers are useless unless they are a heat-pump model ... then it's debatable.If you have limited space, you would be better off with a 24" "apartment sized" stackable laundry where the "dryer" is a condensate ... or better, heat-pump - model that requires no venting.  

Without a retarder, warm moist air would be driven out through the wall assembly and condensate on the external sheathing (on the external face if your are lucky and there is sufficient external insulation).]Your climate is more-or-less the reverse of ours and you spend much of the year cooling the conditioned space.  

Also, using a primer or paint with PVA will stop warm moist air from passing through the paint and drywall only to condense on the cold side of the wall and cause a potential area for mold growth.Bill

The condensate drain and trap need to be cleaned, and the water replaced in the trap.The blower wheel needs to be checked for debris and cleaned if necessary (this requires complete removal of the blower wheel).An amp-draw test should be conducted on the blower motor and compared with what is listed.The wiring needs to be checked for corrosion and damage.The filters need to be checked

Executive SummaryThis Executive Summary section presents a condensed description of the investment.

Just a quick note about failed windows that have acquired condensation between the frames (more common on vinyl and other windows that don't have a visible metal spacer between the frames).

You must ventilate otherwise you will condensate water vapors in this space. 

One of the things he noticed is that there is no drain pipe next to the condenser unit (like there normally is); there is no visible drain pipe anywhere. 

Think of what happens when you pour a cold beer in a glass on a hot day - you get condensation.  

I would bet the house has high humidity or condensation on the windows.