Originally posted by @Alex Holt:hey @John Conte I can help if you still need help I actually have a single family for sale in this area and a multi in a better part of town for sale with good returns  If that multi is still listed, I'd be interested in taking a look at the listing, I'm trying to keep my search to MFH for cash flow reasons.

What's even more important is the neighbourhood you buy in. Take

I have several in the works in the West Michigan area if you are interested in taking a look.

I'd be interested in taking care of some of these leads.

I would be interested in taking a peek at those sources. 

- Yes Holly please fee free to send me a DM and I will send you a link to my insurance brokers intake form, they have gotten my insurance down about 40% from the highs experienced last year!

When I was replying last night, I was filling out an organizer that one sent in preparation for a intake consultation tomorrow.  

2-You turn the pool equipment off and the water needs replacing because the filter didn't go on for so long it all went green, you pay. 3-That grease and sludge all over the brand new cabinets and glass that you STILL haven't removed after numerous requests...that ain't regular wear and tear.... you WILL be paying for the repairs. 4-No more cigarette butts or dog poop on the front lawn, egress, driveway, etc.5-Keep the intake grates on the A/C clean.

Great job also in taking advantage of the shutdown.

I got quotes of $35,000, $40,000 and $35000.Cut out and remove the existing cast iron hot water boiler, both hot water heaters.Cut out and remove the existing 11/2"-21/2" supply and return heating mains that run from the mechanical room (back of the house) to the meter room (front of the house).Install 2- 9 port manifold stations in the mechanical for supplying heat to the cast iron radiators.Plumb the supply and return (home runs) 1/2" pex tubing for the cast iron radiators from the manifolds to the existing branch of risers in the basement ceiling.Pressure test all piping.Pipe new 11/4"x 50' gas piping from the meter room to the mechanical room.Pressure test gas piping.Install a HTP UFT 140 high efficient modulating condensing hot water boiler and a Turbomax 45 Reverse Indirect Tank (Buffer tank and Potable hot water) with near boiler piping and controls containing:The supply and return header piping from the UFT 140 boiler to the Turbomax 45 will be piped in a 2 pipe buffer tank configuration.Isolation drain and purge valves.Air and dirt magnet separators.High efficient ECM circulating pumps with isolation pump flanges.Hydronic expansion tank with support bracket.Back flow preventer and auto filer combo unit.Inline sediment and De-minerlized filter.Controls & Wiring:Low Water Cut Off.18- Manifold Actuators.Zone Control Box's.3-Thermostats with wireless sensors.Outdoor Sensor.Cold and Hot water potable water side:Isolation valves.Thermostatic mixing valve.Thermal expansion tank with support bracketPipe 3" Polypropylene and PVC flue and air intake piping from the boiler to the outside along with a thin low profile termination kit.Install a Condensate neutralizer pump and plumb the discharge tubing from the pump to the indirect stand pipe in the mechanical room.Pressure test all piping.Install and wire in all controls in the mechanical room.Power flush the system and remove any debris that is in the radiators and piping.Drain the water out of the entire system.Re-fill the entire heating system with De-mineralized water and power purge all the air out of the entire system.Set and adjust the flow meters on the manifolds as per radiators btu's output.Perform a combustion analysis on the boiler and make any adjustments if needed.