There is a cleaning fee included that pays for the house cleaning.I use a lock box for the key.I have wifi thermostats so I can save on the electric bill when no one is there.

The same with electrical issues even though those are much fewer. 

Where we are located, the city requires the water/sewer bill to be in the landlord's name, so the students pay the landlord the rent, water, sewer and trash and then the students pay the electric, gas and cable/internet directly to the utility company.  

I've had 3 different employers but all in the same field, "Electrical Foreman".

While most Net Zero buildings are energy efficient, perhaps even highly so in comparison to minimum building code requirements, there is nothing requiring them to anywhere new the efficiency level of a Passivhaus   .... this is why you will see odd things like warehouses with large rooftop solar installations being able to claim Net Zero.On the other hand, Passivhaus sets three metrics which a building must meet to be certified as Passivhaus compliant:  The building must have a heating and cooling demand of not more than 15 kWh/m2 (4,755 BTU/sq ft; 5.017 MJ/sq ft) per year  and a peak heat load of 10 W/m2.Total primary energy consumption (energy for heating, hot water and electricity) must not be more than 120 kWh/m2 (38,040 BTU/sq ft; 40.13 MJ/sq ft) per yearThe building must not leak more air than 0.6 times the house volume per hour (n50 ≤ 0.6 / hour) at 50 Pa (0.0073 psi) as tested by a blower door.Ironically, the research and pilot projects which fuelled what eventually became the Passivhaus standard was carried out in Saskatchewan as a National Research Council (NRC) project in the 1970s (the house is still in use today) and a similar project (Minnesota?)

Either you or a representative you trust with out exception must perform all the necessary due diligence just as you would for a property down the street from you.Turnkey companies want to maximize profit by doing as little work as possible using the cheapest materials.I would have a professional inspector check everything with a fine tooth comb,especially the roof,plumbing,electrical,and HVAC systems.Also make sure you get a repair warranty for when things go to hell in two years or less(and they will).I honestly don't trust any property I don't rebuild myself with my trusted contractor and quality materials that will last at least a decade or more

Here is a part of the letter, I sent to the seller:The home inspection was completed on September 29th (please see attached) and the following issues were pointed out: 1.The wooden floor frame in the middle unit is deteriorating due to either prior water leak in the bathroom or due to moisture infiltration through the walls and foundation.2.There is evidence of significant settlement under the middle unit bathroom and north closet.3.The settlement of the floor and walls has also resulted in settlement of the roof frame above this area, ceiling shows cracks.4.There is an obvious depression on the roof – water is ponding on the roof above the middle unit, which adds excessive weight on the roof and potential for leaks.5.Asbestos containing material has been found.6.The current bedroom heat installations in the north and south units pose a safety hazard from carbon monoxide, fire and oxygen depletion.7.An electrician performing upgrades did not use ‘arc fault breakers’ in the north and south unit breaker panels, which is required by the national electrical code.8.Upgrades to the electrical system, promised by a real estate agent, have not been completed yet.

They've rewired the electrical and installed new smoke and fire detectors.  

You end up buying, new HVAC, paint, drywall (maybe), electrical fixtures, kitchen cabinets (maybe), flooring, and appliances.The law actually protects the person that follows it.

I lease a 2015 hybrid gas/electric plug-in (Ford C-Max) for $234/month.