Pay a handyman to go around every five years or so with a ten-dollar bottle of concrete crack sealant.

Simultaneously the building wasn't aware of the building made of split-face block, requiring sealant every 3-5 years.

Additional flashing and sealant was installedat the flatwork to foundation intersection.

Also, I'm looking for how others have overcome this problem in their own investing.Here's some background on the property:Pros:Each unit has in-wall A/C units that are fairly new.All 4 water heaters are less than 4 years oldAll 4 electrical panels have been rebuilt5 minute drive to downtownCons:Built around 1950 so some items are showing their age.No washer/dryer hookups in unit, no on-site laundryMinor issues (in my opinion):Damaged sidingA few small areas of wood rotIssues I'm concerned about:Roof:Roof deterioration - Roof age is 14-16 yearsRoof sealant at ridge caps, flashing, and accessories should be resealedRafter sag - this caused the roof to sag in certain areas, which my inspector said is typical for older homes that have no collar ties installed.Attic access was sealed off, caulked and painted over by the current or a previous owner. 

I would grid out some mortar and use a sealant with 50% (100% ?)

He is more than happy to give me all the contact information for everyone who worked on the house, including the roofer (roof put in about 7 years ago), the pavers for the driveway (recently paved but still needs final sealant), and even former tenants who may want to live there again.  

Comes with a plastic valve seat and silicone sealant.

Once the peirs are in place, the cracks (vertical ones) need to be ground out and filled with backer rod and sealant. 

You can see the plywood sheathing, evidence of past/present water damage, coping replaced by some sort of spray foam sealant, etc -est repair $10,000. 

However, please make sure they put sealant on all the nails of the dish and around the base of the dish.