All Forum Posts by: Tim Bishop

Thanks @Jeff Richardson I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks it looks good!

I just ripped out a leaky rotten shower in the master... and the rest of the master bath too I guess lol... I just started this a couple of weeks ago so since you brought this thread back and @Frankie Woods asked for updates, here are some pics.  I'm hoping to finish it (and all other loose ends) up quickly for an appraisal so wish me luck!  

blurry pic but the back wall with the insulation is completely rotted out from an improper pan installation... yes it's load bearing

In progress from about a week ago, all new copper, new framing on the exterior wall... yes the wall with the plumbing is 24in on center, yes I've added extra blocking for the durarock... yes my new pan will be 4 inches above the old shower that they covered up with the leaky one, yes I know that I installed the durarock before the mud base, I'm doing a liquid liner (redgard) and mudding the crap out of all the joints and the durarock will be joined to the mud pan with screwed in reinforcement mesh... Yes that's a gfci outlet, yes you can have electrical in there by code, yes there will be an access door for those valves on the backside... All that to say, it's done right and don't pm me and call me an idiot. lol.

Future shower and floor tile will be 1/8 in grout lines

Accent for the shower walls

Shower Glass... sitting in my garage at the moment, hoping I don't drop a tool on it while it waits.

Quick Tip

By the end of the year I will finish my live in flip and get it appraised and so I can free up cash by refi or heloc to reinvest in early 2015.  Got one master bath gut job, guest bath tile job, carpet in the master bath and closet, all new fence, and cabinets/counters/floors in the kitchen.  

Nothing too hard but it's a lot of hours to fit in two months for a newbie like me.  Good thing I love doing it!

I agree that it sounds like its siphoning. 

Just thinking outside the box... if you decide to start replacing drain pipes. I don't know what type of property it is but here in TX if I had that issue in an SFR I could legally (unless banned by a local code) run a very inexpensive greywater disposal system if I was close to an exterior wall. This would be separate from the main drainage system with the sump being the backup.

For homes here its great because everything is buried under a slab.  In nj I don't know if it'd be worth it.  Just thought I'd throw out the alternative. 

 http://oasisdesign.net/greywater/laundry/

@Stephen Camardo would you be replanting with seed or sod?  What time of year will it need to be planted and are you looking for a temporary lawn or permanent lawn?

Have you had any estimates on the outside work?

Fyi Port Lavaca is not East TX when you are talking to anyone from TX.  I don't think it changes any of the advice you've been given though.

I took the tx course from these guys https://www.hometraining.com/states/texas.htm and it's helped me quite a bit.  Hopefully your courses do the same for you.

I agree with all that has been said but wanted to lend some clarification on the use of Round up.  Round up is what most people commonly call glycophosphate.  Glycophosphate will completely break down chemically within a few days to a few weeks and will not stay in the soil no matter what type of soil you have... well not as glycophospate anyways.  If you buy a round up branded herbacide that says anything about extended control etc... then you will have only dirt for a very long time.  So if you decide to chemically kill all of your unwanted vegetation, then I would recommend buying offbrand concentrated glycophosphate for use in a pump sprayer and go crazy with it (while following manufacturers mixing instructions) but leave an unsprayed border of about 2 feet around your trees and use it on a calm day without wind or rain.  The feed store advice on plant identification is great, they should also carry glycophospate and when you ask for it they will probably know what you're talking about.  Usually 2 treatments in a two week interval will kill everything except nutsedge and dormant bermuda.  When mixing this don't make a mess, follow the instructions, and add a little dawn dish soap (helps penetrate waxy leaf coatings).

I've personally had ryegrass sprouting with an 80 percent germination rate after 7 days.  This seed was put down 1 day after a heavy glycophosphate treatment on a 3-4 thousand square foot area. 

In your yard I would sod with st. augustine next may.  If you are worried about erosion until may then I would suggest annual ryegrass.  Ask the feed store guys for application rates.  Shade will probably be an issue if you use bermuda, even with a heavy tree trimming which, as has been said already is definitely needed... if you have mostly sunny areas or if you are going to list it quickly then go for bermuda.  You could sod right after clearing the dirt but it's a little risky this time of year and immediately after an herbacide treatment.  If you are just going to list it this winter then don't worry about sod, ryegrass is fine and super cheap.  With an arv of 65k you may not want to spend the money on sod either way.

@Scott K.  LOL! too bad I'm a terrible shot... I'd get stabbed... or catch hepatitis... 

@Simon Campbell 

I don't really look at squatting as a good investment strategy lol... What I guess I was trying to say was that this place is not worth anything and that only squatters would really be into living in a place like that... I wouldn't last 5 minutes in that neighborhood!

I don't know why anyone would give up a phone when they could just squat there for free!!!

@Simon Campbell 

Sounds like the owner is at least smart enough to know when to quit.

http://abcnews.go.com/US/man-trade-decrepit-detroi...

An iphone trade is definitely creative financing!

Looks like a good way to lose an iphone though lol... I bet he'll find a taker anyways.