All Forum Posts by: Stephen Gallagher

@Johann Jells

Bx is NOT recognized by the National Electric Code as a grounding means. Bx is often confused with Ac. Ac or armor clad is covered in section 320 and is defined as containing a continuous copper or aluminum conductor, intimate with the armor and continuous. Bx does not have this.

The issue with using Bx as your grounding means is the fire dangers you could be introducing into the circuit. The Bx circuitry often has integral deficiencies from the clamps, from the dirt and scale built up on the armor and the clamps, and poor installation whereby the installer yanked too hard and split the armor.

The only safe way to add a grounding conductor on a Bx circuit is to rewire, or use the GFCI methods already discussed.

Here is a link to educate yourself.

https://www.ecmag.com/section/codes-standards/type-bx-cable-hazard-warnings-and-more

Hire a professional, wiring is not hobby.

Stephen

@Richard Moreno

an egress window needs to be at least 5.7 square. Ft. With minimum measurements of 20x24. A quick Google search will provide you with many different kits and options. If you are doing the work your self a safe estimate for completion of the egress window is 4 to 5k. If contracting that out, double or maybe even triple depending on your contractor market. Also remember that there is an off the floor requirement as well, so the sill of your window can be no higher than 44 inches off the finished floor.

Also remember that the egress is not just for show. It is the second means of egress to living space, and could be the point of entry for firefighters.

Another thing to remember when finishing off basements, head clearance at stairs and to showers needs to be at least 80 inches finished floor measurement.

There is some clear thought process needed for risk/value in completing a task like this. If you have to spend 50k to finish it to code, how long before you reap any reward, and would you be better off investing that Reno money into another property.

More than likely you will have several other hurdles that will need to be over come. I suggest talking with a few qualified contractors and get some rough numbers before you start looking for an engineer or architecht.

YMMV,

Hope I have helped.

Stephen Gallagher

I can only reference NH markets, which I presume are a little higher in cost of living,  but the last three bathroom remodels I completed were in 2 to 4k range just for electrical.  

There are things that need to be considered.  Bathroom needs to be on a circuit by itself, or with another bathroom.  In years past, the bathroom could have been tapped off any one of another circuits,  but that is no longer the case.  If there is no window, then a bath fan must be installed and properly vented.

I am not familiar with your square footage, or local codes,  but looking at your numbers compared to my exposure, you under budgeted.

 As stated above,  the city will want their fees.  I am not familiar with the specific area you are in, but I have been called many times to be a third party evaluation after the fact.  Basically I am putting my electrical license on the line, verifying that the work completed meets current code.  I then write an affidavit (report of findings).  I am taking a guess,  but about 60% of the ones I inspect need some kind of work, from complete RIP out and start over, to adding a small appliance branch circuit and or adding AFCI/GFCI protection.

My suggestion is to reach out to the AHJ and ask the questions.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Stephen Gallagher

 Make sure you know and understand the code.  If the length of the branch circuits are not modified or increased more than six feet, there is nothing in the National Electric Code that requires upgrading to Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI). 

There is a possibility that a local ordinance or an amendment was adopted in the jurisdictional code language and could possibly have been promulgated.  I have not seen any municipalities creating amendments on the AFCI.

The six foot rule in the National Electric Code was specifically included for panel upgrades and changes.  A regular breaker is $5 an AFCI/GFCI breaker is $50.  Replacing every breaker could price some investors right out of the game.

The GFCI Breaker Protects everything down stream.  

To avoid confusions, the first receptacle in the circuit is closest to the panel/breaker and the last one is the end of the line.  

Kitchens are supposed to have two small appliance circuits, but that was  not always the case.  

The kitchen should be GFCI protected as you suggested, and it is true anywhere within six feet of a water source (Bathrooms, Basement washout sinks) should also be GFCI protected. 

In older homes with two prong receptacles it is acceptable to replace the breaker with a GFCI breaker.  This protects every receptacle downstream, but does not provide a ground.  If the two prong receptacles are replaced with modern three prong receptacles on the circuit protected by the GFCI, this is permissible in accordance with the 2017 NEC.  However, every receptacle on that circuit must have identification denoting that the receptacle is non grounding. 

When you purchase a GFCI receptacle, there are many of these stickers included.  Typically these stickers are placed on the receptacle plate.  

This code applies to replacing the first receptacle with a GFCI as well.  All downstream receptacles are connected to the load side of the GFCI receptacle, and that protects everything down stream. The downstream devices are still required to be marked "non grounding".

Hope this helps.

Stephen

it eliminates the need of sticking with two prong outlets.  You do need to identify each receptacle as having no ground.  The circuit is protected, but still is not grounded.

 That is why I hired an agency.  They supposedly did a comprehensive background check.  I had no recourse other than to never use that company again.

Stephen

I am interested in meeting,