Skip to content
×
Try PRO Free Today!
BiggerPockets Pro offers you a comprehensive suite of tools and resources
Market and Deal Finder Tools
Deal Analysis Calculators
Property Management Software
Exclusive discounts to Home Depot, RentRedi, and more
$0
7 days free
$828/yr or $69/mo when billed monthly.
$390/yr or $32.5/mo when billed annually.
7 days free. Cancel anytime.
Already a Pro Member? Sign in here
Pick markets, find deals, analyze and manage properties. Try BiggerPockets PRO.
x
All Forum Categories
All Forum Categories
Followed Discussions
Followed Categories
Followed People
Followed Locations
Market News & Data
General Info
Real Estate Strategies
Landlording & Rental Properties
Real Estate Professionals
Financial, Tax, & Legal
Real Estate Classifieds
Reviews & Feedback

All Forum Posts by: Account Closed

Account Closed has started 19 posts and replied 100 times.

Post: Remove load bearing wall

Account ClosedPosted
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Austin
  • Posts 100
  • Votes 28
Originally posted by @Pat L.:

@Account Closed

It took a couple of hours to demo the wall move some wiring & install 2x6 jack studs.

It took about 4 hours to lift the 2 beams into place & bolt them together (following the approved pattern) & then secure them to the jack studs. We didn't need to recess the beam into the floor joists as we had adequate height. However, if you need to cut into the joists to bury the beam you'd be looking at least a solid days work.

We subsequently drywalled over the beams & that was about 2 hours. I pay my maintenance guy $15/hr so we did it the same day he was there tiling the bathrooms & he also did the mudding of the drywall in a couple of hours.

aha, nice! What would be your advise to someone like myself? My husband is a great handyman. But he never installed any beams or anything like that. I am in contact with structural engineer and I will take his drawings to the city for approval. What should be my next step? Can we just purchase the beams and my husband installs them? Should we hire a framer? My understanding is that no matter who does the job the city checks it and either gives a red or green light for the work. However, I am uncertain who is the best subcontractor for this job.

Post: Remove load bearing wall

Account ClosedPosted
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Austin
  • Posts 100
  • Votes 28
Originally posted by @Pat L.:

@Account Closed we were fortunate I'm a retired engineer & drew up a schematic but doubled up on the $80/LVL beam (more to fill out the beam than what was needed for static loads) & he approved it. 

How much did the labor cost on this? Thanks a lot for reply btw. I am currently drawing plans of the house, and need someone to do structural removal of the wall. The plans are really bizarre, I am not sure why the architect did what he did.

Post: Remove load bearing wall

Account ClosedPosted
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Austin
  • Posts 100
  • Votes 28
Originally posted by @Pat L.:

We have done a few ourselves. The two most recent was a 20ft & the other a double13.5ft. After demo & jack stud placement its a 4 hour job.

In both cases we had to get approval from the Building Inspector & on the 13.5ft I doubled up on the LVL beam due to the fact upper floor joists were sistered at that point.

The 20ft was about $112 delivered & lifted by 4 guys & the 13.5 footers were cut to size & $80 a piece. We lifted that into place with 3 of us. The bolt pattern used to secure the 2 LVL beams followed that 'approved' by the Bldg. Insp. When we sold the property the buyers attorney wanted copies of all signed off permits.

If they want a structural engineering schematic you're into more $$$. For an addition I did with multiple 22ft IJoists & LVL spans I had the architect highly detail beam placement & jack studs within the $500 set of stamped drawings for the addition & it was worth it to get the approvals.

But NEVER cut into an LVL as a friend did to install a poorly planned door placement. Bldg. Insp. considered the LVL compromised  & it had to be removed & tossed.

did you need structural engineer or the building inspector was sufficient?

Post: Loan bearing wall - dos and don'ts

Account ClosedPosted
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Austin
  • Posts 100
  • Votes 28

Folks, I have an annoying load bearing wall. How do I remove it? Could you guide me? In case I choose to get permits from the city what do I need to provide them?

I know I need to have plans of the house. But how about the structural engineer? Do I understand correctly that after I get a plan from structural engineer and I get it approved with city I will have to bring in a framer? Then how do I control the work of the framer? Namely, should I wait for the city inspection?

What are your dos and don'ts with load bearing walls?

I do have to remove it... 

Post: Question on electrical panel

Account ClosedPosted
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Austin
  • Posts 100
  • Votes 28
Originally posted by @Sai T.:

@Account Closed

I do think electrician is going to install GFCI breaker.

Wait for inspection report and if buyer ask you then go to the electrician.  Good luck đź‘Ť 

 thanks! Yeah, but it will go on sale only in 2020, and I have to decide on the electrical box now.

Post: Question on electrical panel

Account ClosedPosted
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Austin
  • Posts 100
  • Votes 28
Originally posted by @Eddie Day:

A new service means your power company must come out and disconnect power (in most cases). Assuming that's the case, the work will need to be inspected before meter is put back and power turned on. That means everything will have to be updated and follow current NEC standards including arc fault breakers and Ground fault protection (either in the form of breakers or GFCI outlets). I'm not 100% sure that all power companies will require the inspection but that is certainly the case in most places. As an Electrician, I would not expect payment until service was inspected and passed. 

this is exactly my case, everything have passed the inspection, but no GFCI breakers there. The home inspector of the buyer will be pulling my leg for that.... do you think I should press the electrician to set GFCI?

Post: 2019/18 1031 vs. Hyper Depreciation

Account ClosedPosted
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Austin
  • Posts 100
  • Votes 28

@Philip Dobson which as uction do you use?

Post: I have access to $500k cash, should I put $50k down on 10 SFRs?

Account ClosedPosted
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Austin
  • Posts 100
  • Votes 28

@Evan Evans yeah, no. Your strategy has many flows. Learn, read BP, that's the best you can do at this point. 500k will not get you 5.5 mil in mortgages and even if they do, you will not have cashflow. Each house should be investigated individually.

Post: Question on electrical panel

Account ClosedPosted
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Austin
  • Posts 100
  • Votes 28
Originally posted by @Robert S.:

@Sophie Maisel According to one of your posts, originally there was 3 panels, and then 2 and he is combining them all into 1. Just because he is removing 3 existing panels and combining them into 1 does not mean you are being overcharged. You could be, but that is not the deciding factor. Your market, as with any market, dictates the price. Therefore, you should get 3 quotes for the prescribed work, then based on how each contractor communicates with you, make your decision on who to hire. As stated earlier, I am licensed in NJ. I started doing residential electric work in 2004, back then we charged $1800-$2000 for a 200 amp service upgrade, and I don’t recall a time when we lost a bid. The only major code change on services is the addition of Arc Fault circuit breakers. They add approx. $30 in material per circuit and another $100 or so in labor. This is because these breakers have an additional wire that gets tied in at the panel. Also, at the local level, the NEC (National Electric Code) is governed by the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction). Your locale might not require Arc Fault protection on service upgrades, happens all of the time here in NJ and varies from town to town.

I currently charge $2200–$3000 and none of my customers(who are all investors) ever made a comment about the price.

The Austin market is hot, I have family there, they own rental property there. My brother in law tells me his GC floats approx. $40k in work per month, and that GC is a transplant from the Northeast. That tells me he built a skill set elsewhere and moved to where the work is.

As for the condensing of three panels into one, this requires a significant amount of work. It should take two electricians one full day to complete. Based on all of the variables covered in this thread, I would not feel you are being overcharged. Some markets are cheaper than others, I don’t feel Austin with its ever growing population is one of them. I know it’s hard to read through the BS on BP, and believe me, there is plenty, I would suggest you learn the proper vernacular for each facet of residential construction. As plenty of folks on here are way off with their terminology and this will only confuse you. Since it is your property, you need to do the best research you can and be responsible for the end result in your choice. Feel free to reach out to me if you require any assistance. Best of luck.

 thanks a lot for taking time and giving me a professional opinion. I wonder if you think GFCI and/or AFCI breakers should be installed? The installation passed a permit from the city. However, since this is a flip, the home inspector is usually points a finger on GFCI and I don't want to do this work if I get under the contract to sell this flip.

Post: Question on electrical panel

Account ClosedPosted
  • Real Estate Agent
  • Austin
  • Posts 100
  • Votes 28

@Jonathan Greer

No, I did not accept his job. He is finalizing it and I will pay when I see it's done.