All Forum Posts by: Scott Davis

Timeframe, legal considerations, and best practices going forward of course vary by jurisdiction.

You can't count on believing that the family member doesn't already have utilities under their name or similar arrangement that will keep the power on for them. Or they just go in with a piece of mail to that address in their name, and pay the bill, in some case for example.

You can't count on believing that the family member will not produce a handwritten lease (real or not), or other paperwork & tactics, to throw a big old wrench in your initial/expected timeline.

You CAN expect that if they see you as the big old rich/developer/bad guy enemy, they will do as much damage as they can, and drag their feet as long as possible.

See if you can feel out what the relative actually wants/ needs, connect/come prepared with info on resources for local "housing help" options, etc (perhaps), and figure out what you can do to solve the problem (cash for keys with an incentive for quicker move out timeframe? a crew of strong guys and a free uhaul rental?).  Covid era (timelines) about tenant and squatter rights are persisting, so a legal/ sheriffs eviction will be the last choice. But if you have to, consult a local lawyer and get the process started asap.

Security? Solar led motion activated lights are cheap & effective, get the really big/bright ones (based on max lumens) around $60-100 ballpark. Just don't be that obnoxious neighbor who has one that turns on anytime car.person goes by etc. 

Same thing for cameras: I like old style trail cameras with a memory card (for rural properties personally) but if you have wifi onsite, or if you're willing to sign up for monthly fee (services for $5/month and up) the ones with a sim card are getting really affordable nowadays too. 

Listen to what the others are saying. Or go ahead and learn for yourself- IF it comes out easily enough without breaking apart- go ahead and post it up on fb marketplace, cl, and next door etc, with the exact dimensions listed, for a couple of hundred bucks. Consistently list/repost it for about 3-9 months, you MIGHT find a buyer.

WITH a nice looking complete set of used cabinets to go with, sure, selling it may be worth a shot. But in that case my asking price might be .25 on the dollar vs new cabinets, accept offers of .10-.15/etc. the counters just get thrown in, price of the used cabinets would be about the same with or without.

So go ahead- price it to sell (@ 10-15% of new, or less), and it's still a roll of dice. No you're not likely to find someone willing to re cut it significantly for their projects. If they're cutting it anyway, they are going with what their installer works with, not something scrounged up. So chances of finding the right buyer, (DIY saving money type), with kitchen size/layout very similar yet flexible - willing to build/spec the cabinets around the size of the counters... is exceedingly slim.

A good use for scrap counters/stone is breaking them up with a sledge and using them for garden stepping stones, borders & "mosaics". I've gotten consistent dump truck/trailer loads of scrap stone pieces (for fill) from the counter guys at times, just make sure to insist they leave out the trash.  I've seen some beautiful outdoor paths & patios done this way etc, fill in the gaps with sand or concrete.

You might also donate it to a habitat for humanity store (call and ask if they'll take it first) where they might get it in front of the right set of eyes. they might give you a tax donation receipt?

Reasonable answer:  see if you can get ANYONE to take it for FREE if you are on a tight budget or want to reduce waste/ save the dump fees

Yes fiberglass can be patched and look (reasonably) good, and hold up. Epoxy/fiberglass repair is just as strong as the original when done correctly. However, often it won't look quite right unless you re-paint the whole tub  (not just touch up/fill). Sounds like "repair guy" is talking about support/framing under the tub/patch vs just patching it from above without any "structural" support. 

If the repair process requires painting the whole thing, which it may need to look good- I'd optimistically put the lifespan of a professional/specialized 2-part (epoxy or urethane) tub/surround (or tile paint) etc- paint job, with above average prep work at ~3 years.. a "high quality" tub respray like this will cost just as much as a brand new tub, and touching up/blending a spot repair is specialized, expensive work as well. 

but yes I agree with the other replies either way -(unless, *perhaps* there is already easy access from behind etc to get to the repairs and inspect flooring etc without taking tub out)- it makes sense to rip it all out so you can address any potential water damage, and overall there is no reason the resulting new unit shouldn't cost aprox the same ballpark as the repairs .. and new of course will look much better with a much longer lifespan. 

If you have to save some $ somewhere: Get some exact measurements and go find a used , surplus, scratch and dent, fb marketplace, etc -- tub that fits (double tripple checking specs), for your contractor to install. Yes there will be surround & trim/ etc finishing required, but it's nothing special or extra challenging.

get a few other bids before you decide replacement is "too expensive"  - nothing especially challenging about the surround/walls, trim, tile, finishing, or nearby side walls etc getting done at the same time as a tub. Standard practice to rip it all out and replace , overall

I agree it's worth emphasizing that some percent of rural buyers specifically avoid hoa's, or prefer to avoid. But even those reluctant buyers might be ok w/ hoa for the perfect spot, right amenity etc.

Too few details to answer (Of course this varies county by county, all questions could be answered by reading the (zoning)/building code and/or clarified with a visit to the county planning office).

but some clarifications because: lots of things are "tiny homes" but what you describe small houses "on permanent foundations" needs to be clarified , tiny homes could be:

-stick built, see below. check your county code/planning dept

-stick built cabins/recreational, a specific zoning and potential occupancy/etc restrictions but worth looking into where the zoning allows for it 

-hud manufactured homes (smaller singlewide perhaps 400sq ft 600sq ft minimum)

-non-hud park models (on axles), ansi standards

- other "RV's" built on a chassis:  organizations, state agencies, etc - will certify factory built (or sometimes inspected professional built) tiny homes on chassis - to whatever standards ansi, riva, dot/ l&i?, code. Often a grey area or banned for full time occupancy, though.

OP- Please feel free to come back ad post an update on what you've found.

Development costs will often be the biggest hurdle, meaning: sell the land you have and buy an existing park, campground, rv park and "upgrade"/ convert the sites to tiny home compatible. - and you'd be ahead.

-"commercial" local/regional tiny house builders will offer some financing option or another, find someone local in your price bracket and work with their financing

-park models can be financed through dealers/(etc), and small ~400 or 600 sq ft singlewides, although getting spendy, perhaps, could look attractive once you factor in the negative of anything smaller being tough or impossible to conventionally loan down the line. Owners who buy in get that new home feel anyway.

-so what you could try for financing  on anything less conventional- package the land lease and the factory built tiny home, and approach your local credit union until you find a combination that works.

Anyway you should also read up on co housing, co-ops, (yes condos) and other clustered developments as they apply to your county codes. The code will often have provisions for clustering development while leaving other natural areas of the development open space/etc.  Many ways that pans out but overall "condo model" in terms of what you're describing, either way.  Co-housing communities are currently more "mainstream accepted" especially financing-wise. In some areas code will allow you to increase the overall density, significantly, and whether you build individual stick tiny homes or connected condos/multifamily, still a model to follow for streamlining your financing/package. And perhaps streamlining permitting/etc a bit. All the cohousing developments I've come across have a high degree of pride of ownership and community. Too much so honestly, (they aren't typically affordable). Many local groups will step in to find and fund "first time etc" qualified hard working homeowners though, find great tennants to get in your units if you go this route, & set it up correctly.

If states like Indiana are pushing that they are "tiny home friendly" (in that case I've heard of the log cabin law, but don't necessarily know if that's directly applicable to community-scale developments). I'd like to see how it turns out overall for builders & developers who do go that route, and if the county streamlines/encourages the process at all.  Compare the all-in $'s to putting in a 14x40 single wide, basically.  or barebones duplexes/conventional attached development... It would be great if progressive views/laws on reducing minimum square footage (residential/single family on foundation) were indeed the case in Indiana, and will to catch on (re-evaluating minimum size of homes) elsewhere.

A couple points that others touched on - placement is key, it's typically going to be a bit of a compromise but "tenant education" and perhaps a couple added ceiling fans can go a long way.  Optimal placement of the indoor unit is important as well, I've seen some DIY installs that left me scratching my head. 

While many people will be tempted to go with a relatively affordable brand- before heading that direction I'd suggest perhaps talking to some hvac SERVICE NOT INSTALL guys & asking what brands of mini split they can recommend...  especially if you're in for longer term or even for higher resale/etc.  My Mitsubishi mini splits that are 15+ years old have required little to no repairs, and parts are generally available, while some off-brands went out within 2-5 years...  (That said some other Japanese & Korean off brands are still working ok for me as well). I feel like the quality has probably come up somewhat across the board in the last 5+ years. 

Along with the possibility of 2 units, for example one in main bedroom, one in open livingroom area.... it's also worth considering 2-zone (or more than 2 zone) units that have one outdoor unit feeding (via copper lines under home) multiple indoor units that can be controlled independently.  

Efficiency rating is an important consideration when choosing/comparing models. And one last thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is that most mini splits aren't ideal/appropriate for heating in extremely low (below somewhere around 20F) temperatures, the specs will all list the temperature range. In certain climates you will want to go for the units that have built in electric heat backup for the lowest possible temp range.

I don't think hipcamp or airbnb is necessarily the way to go on a property you don't actively manage (Live onsite or nearby, or have a property manager for).  Is let's say ~$15-40 a night- for a camp site (or 'cabin'/trailer/etc)- worth the hassle? only you can say..  Plenty of considerations with short term rentals that you might not think of initially, for example- different people coming & going all the time, does this have any impact on neighbors? Instead, I would suggest seeing if you can find a 'caretaker' / renter who wants a parking & garden space for their self-contained tiny home on wheels, trailer or rv.  (of course, there may be some code/etc limitations on how long someone might stay/live there, or limitations on what types of trailer/rv/tiny home might or might not be allowed without a permitted septic)....   That said, with the added bonus of fruit trees & garden space you may find a like-minded longer term renter.  In my area for example- I often see off grid 'tiny home parking' or 'property caretaker parking space' for rv's advertised on cl - 200-800 a month depending on the location & amenities

Nicole Bussard - in situations where I've been unable to find the "right" person to approach the permitting/planning  process on a similar "difficult" project (when I don't have local/personal recommendations to turn to), I've had good luck searching local public records for recent permits (similar projects etc) and working backwards - find the contractor or even landowner who submitted permits, they will/may have an architect / engineer that they perhaps recommend or like to work with.  

My thoughts are you're probably taking an extreme best case guess about both occupancy AND nighty rate plus I see zero mention of expenses as well. Other replies have covered most of the basics but with the same end goal in mind I'd tend to approach it a little differently: -Can you find a property with a house on it already, with zoning that will allow at minimum 1 additional ADU, or multiple additional residential units under the current zoning code (or after subdividing, if required)? Don't forget environmental/site conditions like wetlands/slope, available water supply, and Septic. Maybe you will find something with additional under-utilized outbuilding/s already on it, that could perhaps convert to rentals? --buying something with a home on it already will allow conventional financing and then put the $ into developing additional STR units when your additional $ is available over time. --Have you considered using sub-permitted (ie under ~200f sq ft cabin, or "tiny home" built on a trailer frame)? Sub permitted rustic cabins/sheds/portable buildings on pier blocks, non-permanent/temporary (rv/trailer/tiny home/park model) and other unconventional rental units like tree houses seem to rent almost as well as larger units, especially worth looking into if start up cost is a consideration.. These could be more affordable to start things out and see if you can make it work in the area - just make sure whatever you're proposing is a legal use in the county/city zoning code. If you have the right natural attraction like a river, or even a "themed" property/units of some sort, smaller or more unconventional rentals even without all traditional amenities seem to rent out pretty well on airbnb in some cases.. -Finally if you can't find or afford the right property with a house on it already as above, the best rural new construction opportunities/deals are often land with a tear down mobile on it. If you can find something with at least a permitted septic and utilities on site, that could take a tiny bit of the risk/unknowns out of the equation vs developing bare land.

As a huge upgrade over baseboards but still on the more affordable end of the spectrum I too would suggest taking a look at mini splits (ductless aka "mini split" electric heat pumps) ESPECIALLY if you have a fairly open floor plan. One caveat I know their efficiency may not be that great in extreme cold, so in Maine you'd need to talk to local hvac installers to pick the most appropriate models (and probably/may need the type with electric strip heat backup in that climate).  The efficiency is way better than standard electric, yet purchase & install cost is significantly less than a duct-ed heat pump or duct-ed gas furnace etc. Especially if the building is designed for them, you shouldn't have any problems with the banks 'accepting' them, I think that's a misconception or you're thinking of a different situation.. You might want supplemental small electric wall heaters or baseboards in bedrooms (if they will be closed off from the main heated area), and I've been able to get away with just electric heat mat under tile floors for heating the bathroom in these situations as well.  The rest of the world relies pretty heavily on mini splits for buildings of all shapes and sizes.. Multi zone units can work great for larger/more complex spaces too!  I would usually go with Mitsubishi even with the premium price but these days the other 2 or 3 big names probably make quality products as well