All Forum Posts by: Mike B.

@Frank Lorenzo does the city or utility company pay for running the gas line to the building? Just curious what your quote covers.  I had a home (in Philadelphia, PA) that had oil heating, but a gas line in the street.  The utility paid the bill to run a new main line and meter to my property.  Then I paid for the gas line run inside the property to the new heater.  Also an FYI would speak with a HVAC/heating company to find out what rebates are available.  At the time, spending a few hundred more up front for a high efficiency heater only cost me $100 after rebates.  Well worth it as a 'selling point' down the road (and for tenants if you have them paying for their own heat)

@Irfan Raza and @Tim Sharkey both bring up excellent and valid points. From experience, in purchasing 1 vacant property at auction and another at was very old (built early 1900s) and never rehabbed.. L&I wont reach out to you about upgrades or issues unless your property has been long vacant OR there's several open tickets against the property for safety/violation issues.  In the later case, L&I doesn't reach out to you directly per say, but you'll have to go down town to find out what open violations/issues there are and correct those appropriately.  If there's no open violations on the property you're good to go

@Miles Moser - all the info to do this is on the phila.gov website.  In brief, yes it will be a lot of work.  YES you want to hire a GC/experienced contractor who has done this before to ride shotgun and help you with this because it's no easy feat. You likely are required to submit formal design plans (with measurements, etc) showing your intent/location etc of the parking spot, to the local RCO and City of Phila Zoning board. 

First and foremost to consider:  Your corner lot.. the side where you want to install the curb cutout.. is there parking on that side of the street?  If so, your local RCO (and likely city of philly) will reject your request. Second, do you have enough in your rear yard to allow for outdoor parking that does NOT obstruct the sidewalk or come within certain distance to the curbline? There's strict guidelines on the space you need in/around the vehicle, distance to sidewalks and curbs so you need to ensure your property truly has enough space in consideration of these requirements.  Most row homes are 15-17' wide, at most.  So adding in a security gate or party-wall (between you and the neighbors) takes away a foot easily.  

I used to own a duplex in south philly with a GRANDFATHERED DOUBLE GARAGE with curbcuts.  We had to tear down and rebuild the garage.. that was a year long process!  Involved architechts for drawing the structure, measuring the whole property line, showing curb cutouts, etc.  Luckily my curb cutouts were on the side of the street where NO PARKING is posted so easy to keep the cutouts.  It was not an easy process, so YES.. get some help from a professional on this! It'll be worth the money in the end, IF this can go through and be approved. 

I did carpet upstairs in one of my rentals 3 years ago, it was a C+ neighborhood at the time.  Looking back now and considering what i paid for the carpet installed (approx $2.5/sqft) I should have paid slightly higher and went with a high quality/durable LVP installation.  It just looks way better and lasts longer.  In the future when tenants move out I'll likely install a waterproof one throughout the house. It's a big seller and if tenants want carpet they can throw down an area rug. I will say I still use carpet on the steps because it's cheaper and easier to replace vs. a whole floor. 

I would go the carpet route.. but get a good commercial grade carpet in a neutral color installed.  That way it can take the wear/tear and can also be easily cleaned 

I haven't done it, but have heard good reviews for bagster dumpster bag pickup by Waste Management. Home Depot sells the bags (I think $35?) and then you call to schedule pickup (additional fee.. unsure what it is).  But for a small reno, could be something to consider.  I've also cut up pieces small, bagged it up, and my trash guys take it. 

From my past rehabs I've determined (via price, headaches, long term management etc) it's just the overall better idea to put in a central HVAC system. Not only for your tenants, but also in terms of repairs, improving your ARV to your property, etc.

If you're renting it, just state in writing and verbally that they cannot mount anything on the walls. However if this is an expectation for rentals in your area, then yes, I would mount it yourself.  If you mount it yourself would include a clause in your lease that the mount, if it fails, you are not responsible for damages etc. Else you could owe them a TV!

A renter asked me one time to install a wall mount for their TV and I happily assisted because (A) it was a concrete wall and I had the tools with me to do so and (B) they had minimal tools and no experience. 

I've used high end Water PROOF LVP in kitchens and baths in two rentals now without issue.  Ensure it's a high grade product, "Water PROOF" (not water resistant which many are) and I also caulk along the bottom edge of the trim/baseboards so if water splashes/leaks you'll see it on the floors as it pools up. 

There's better ROI and investment margins buying a renovated home in west passyunk - 19145 (or buying a home that needs some cosmetic rehab, do the rehab work, and get appreciation on the property to boot (think BRRRR method).