All Forum Posts by: Randy F.

Caulk makes a huge difference in the finished job as well. After its primed, caulk all the joints and corners. Cut tip of caulk tube with as small a hole as possible at about a 45 degree angle apply only enough if a bead to cover cracks and smooth with a wet finger. Then a little spackle to fill the nail holes. Oil or shellac based primer works best.

Just like to add that IMO extending your vent is not a solution, even as it could eliminate the odor. Vents dont need a draft to do the job they are intended to do. They are nothing more than a vacuum break... Pulling air IN to replace the water flowing out. A draft will pull sewer gas up and out but if there is no break or dry traps it doesnt need to draft.

For proper draft on a chimney, the rule is the top of vent shoud be two feet above the nearest point ten feet away. So if you ran a ten foot level line from the pipe to where it hits the roof, the pipe would need to be at least two foot above that.

If there is a break in the vent, under windy conditions the vent could become pressurized, forcing sewer gas into wall cavity. It would then still have to find its way into the living space. If the water feed to your toilet comes thru the wall, seal any gap around the pipe. If the odor no longer exists, youll have to open the wall.

Is the toilet base caulked? There may have been a leak at wax ring at some point and you could have rot in subfloor. If it isnt caulked, I would caulk it in and see if the odor is still present.

Hi Amie!

I guess Ill throw in my two cents as well!! :c)

First, if house is still settling, one would likely see fresh signs.... Cracks appearing at wall corners, over or under windows etc. If this isnt taking place, then Id trust the inspectors.

So... If no settling is occuring, why is the floor moving and cracking tile and grout joints? Either the joist size and span is the problem, or there is too much give in the floor planking between the joists. What I do in this instance is address both. I'd sister new joists to the old. Depending on the span, could be every one or every other one, to stiffen floor. This will also decrease joist spacing a bit and help stiffen planking. Considering easy access with crawlspace below, and as long as there isnt a bunch of ductwork or plumbing in the way, this is quick, easy, and cheap.

As long as the planking is sound, there shouldnt be much give between joists. If there is, 3/8" exterior grade plywood glued and screwed should do it. If there are any larger swails, they should be taken out by floating with webcrete or leveler before plywood goes down. If planking is stiff, hardibacker or durock bedded in thinset, creating a monolithic substrate is best option and will take out smaller waves if done correctly. Low spots are found with a level and marked out. When backer is set in mud, fasteners arent used over low areas until mud sets. This takes experience and patience, constantly checking level as you go.

Anyway, if you want tile... You should have tile. A good contractor can give you what you want and it shouldnt cost you your first born male child to get it!! It sounds to me like three to five hundred bucks over and above what a straight forward tile job would cost. And I wouldnt go smaller tile, Id go bigger and porcelain not ceramic and be sure setter butters backs of tile. And this, "I wont guarantee this job because its an old house" is a bunch of male bovine pooh! If he cant guarantee it he shouldnt do it. Ive done lots of these type of floors and its no biggy. Never had a problem or call back.

Good luck!!

No. The advantages of hot mud are that it shrinks very little as it sets and that it is much harder/stronger than all purpose mud. It does set very quickly but it takes many hours to dry. Another drawback to hot mud is that its hardness makes sanding difficult. When it is set, yet still has moisture in it, it can be scraped to smooth so that top coats go on nicely.

I just dont see any scenario where he could get the entire job done in one day. At the least, he would have to come back the next day to sand. I have dont patch jobs and used a heat gun to drive moisture out so it could be finished same day, but I cant see that working on that much area. If he uses hot mud and he's good, he could get it in tape and one top coat, but hot mud doesnt feather well and it would require knockdown or heavier texture to hide. And that applies only if there are no butt joints, which require floating out further than do the tape bed joints.

It doesnt sound like you know what texture you are using, so he should be finishing it to accomodate even a light orange peel. Cant do that in one day.

Question: Is there any demo involved? What kind of texture is going on it, and did your contractor inquire about that?

If there is no demo, and all he has to do is show up with another guy and hang and tape... Id say thats a bit high. $300 is more like it. Nobody in their right mind would set up scaffold for two sheets on a ten foot ceiling. They'll hang it with a couple six or eight foot step ladders. If its orange peel, they'll need to tape it, then come back and float it once minimum if they bedded with hot mud and likely twice. Then are they sanding it out before texture or are you? If they are hanging AND doing a complete tape & finish job, you got it cheap at $350. It isnt difficult by any stretch, but two guys to hang, and multiple trips for one guy who'll drop off the floor, mudsling, and clean-up, multiple times... It eats up a contractors time.

I know guys that charge $350 minimum for drywall patching, even if its for one doorknob hole, so dont feel bad!! :c)

I agree with John. Need to determine if raising the floor height by several inches will be a problem. If not, I would put down 6 mil vapor barrier, run nailers as John suggested, and install foam panels between nailers so entire floor is supported.

Josh, my experience as a contractor informs my decisions as an investor. My opinion is my own and I share it for no other reason than to help those with lessor experience. Everyone is entitled to their opinions.

That said, yes... For me it IS a matter of ethics. If I wont put laminate in a kitchen with renters, then I must know that it doesnt hold up well in that environment. I could blame its failure completely on tenants, but that would be shortsighted at best. If I put a product into a potentially wet environment that I know will likely fail in that environment, in order to save myself a few bucks, I am NOT doing the right thing.

So the question is... Is there a specific laminate out there that will withstand water spills and repeated cleanings? If you have found one by all means let everyone know that this particular product has withstood the test of time. What I have a problem with is justifying laminates use in kitchens by saying better glues are being used and that its the new owners responsibility to know how not to damage it. For ME, that is kicking a potential problem down the road for someone else to deal with, and ethically wrong.

You are correct that each type of flooring has its own drawbacks. My general rule if thumb is under $100K ARV... Sheet or plank vinyl. Over $100k... Porcelain tile. I dont use ceramic on floors as it chips too easily.

Anymore, in most markets I believe that over a certain home value, tile is desired and even expected. On lessor properties a quality vinyl should generally suffice and will hold up better than laminate. Again... Just my opinion.

I NEVER install laminate in kitchens or baths. EVER!

While there are several manufacturers who use a wax-like coating on the edges that reduces movement and helps resist water penetration, It is a risk I wont take. And the idea that its ok to use if selling the house, bothers me! So the new homeowner sets a bag of garbage on the floor overnight that leaks... Thats his problem that the floor is ruined?

All it takes with MOST laminate is for the laminate to be wet mopped and you forever see the raised/swelled joints. Yes, I saw a laminate floor that was flooded and after hogdog dehumidifiers were used and it was dried out there was no visible damage. However, it was a very dark, textured laminate in an office with no direct sunlight to expose any swelling.

IMO, investors should do the right thing... Tile or vinyl products in baths and kitchens.

Carried away? LOL! Most here are adults... Whats the prob?

If we all had the same ideas on things life would be boring! If you didnt use dimentional lumber for stair tread, what would I have to tear out and replace with OSB or plywood?? :c)