All Forum Posts by: Gary Siver

I would not hesitate buying it. If it’s a good deal go for it. A termite guy told me once that in Florida it’s not if a house will get termites it’s when. They are everywhere here. Repair it, have a remote company come out and inspect, treat and then sell you a termite bonds for any future problems. That way the house is always covered. As far as telling the future buyer  I can’t remember if it is on the sellers disclosure. I believe it asks if there is current termite damage but not sure about past damage that is no longer existing.

Not sure why you are looking for hourly rates.  Are you hiring all guys per hour or trying to ballpark what jobs will cost to get done?  If you hire all your trades by the hour you will over pay for everything. Plus the rates you have down have such a big variation from high to low I don’t know how you would ever get an accurate price.

Tear it out and get new flooring.  You said some of it was short 2 inches, quarter round won’t cover that. If they did that bad off a job who knows how the rest of the install is.

@Derek Roncaioli Here is a photo I found of broken durock cement board.  Maybe that will help. If it is asbestos I don’t know if I would disturb it. Just put a topcoat over it and lay down the new floor.

@Derek Roncaioli Anything is possible I guess. Did the tile look like it was that old? If it was old insulation then the floor should sink in when you step on it because there is no support.

It’s not dry cement. It looks like durock. It’s something you can put down as a sub floor to lay tile on. It’s usually put over wood.

How do you plan to pay for it?  If it is hard money they are able to provide a proof of funds letter for you.

Labor price might be a little high.  Remember you get what you pay for.  $600 a day for a 2-3 man crew is not much, it’s getting harder and harder to find people that know what they are doing and will show up to work.  No one  wants to do physical work any, that’s way prices are going up. Buy the material yourself and save any mark up.  I don’t see that taking more than two weeks with a 2-3 man crew.

You should be able to find the manufacture of the window and get all the needed information of the window.  Then you can have the inspector come and sign off on the installation. It shouldn’t  matter if they were installed 10 years ago or 10 days ago as long as they are brought up to current code.  You just need to have the inspector come out and have a talk with them. Explain the situation and they will usually work with you.