All Forum Posts by: Ryan Watson

I would avoid any slab house like the plague. I'd look at it as a heating problem as well. You loose heat into the ground from the floor.

Since your last post it got me to thinking. If expansion and contraction was a problem with clay soil, i wonder if you was to lime stabilize and recompact the soil under the slab like they do the roads, if the expansion problem would go away?

I think he means he doesnt want to pay good money for an incompetent fool.

Bill S, wouldnt you think that building a wall infront of a failing wall would be adding to the mess? I'd be pissed if i found something like that, and knew i was loosing lot space because of a half *** gig like that.

The best thing to do is take it out and start over.

Unless you can climb up there and get us a picture of what that top looks like, just going off the aerial view looks like you've got enough room to dig it back. if you had a contractor do it i doubt it would be 6 figures.

I'd do this project myself but then again im experienced with mass earth, so this project really doesnt look like that big of a deal. Unless that house out back really is sitting too close. I'd walk away from it then. Thats ridiculous how close those houses are.... just stupid

That slope above the wall is a moot point. That wall is already 6' from the looks of it, add the top of that hill in the picture and your looking at probably 12' to the bottom of that wall. That means you need to open up the top atleast 12' or more away from the wall depending on how your ground is. If its good ground you wont have to open it as wide, but it still needs layed back for safety. From the looks of it you might have to take out a few trees or bushes for this? It would be a serious cut. If you used a 5 ton hoe like Alex said, you could do it in a couple of cuts. Some operators might try it with one.

If access is an issue get two smaller excavators that fit through a 36" gate. Bench one machine down and pass the dirt off to the the other one above him to get the dirt out of the way.

The golden question in this job is if you can get a machine up there, and work a safe enough distance away from the wall to make that first cut. It will have to dig its way along the top of the wall to notch out the hill top to get up there.

When a contractor runs mainline up a street. It cost quite a bit of money for a crew to come in and install. To recover this cost they money they paid the contractor to install this, they charge everyone a flat rate if they dont hook in right away. Some cases they may charge this right away for everyone. It depends on the note that the city plays it. So as you state this is 8000 per unit, if you wanted separate lines. I would guess a dwelling would be no more than a 3/4" pipe from the main to the house. You could bore under the road, no need to dig it up if the conditions are favorable. It would go easy going ontop of that 72000 flat rate fee for all 9 units to start with. They would only dig one hole in the yard for the meter. Open cut would be more expensive.

If you have an existing meter, you could use what you've got if its big enough for the volume of 9 units or get an engineer to determine what upgrades could be needed to just have a master meter pit. Is this where that 100 unit minimum comes in? Anyway, this route you could save your digging to one spot. However though, it would defeat your tidy water billing plan?

Welcome

I was wondering if someone could shed some light on this topic for me.

Ive noticed that someone has put a property in the name of a trustee during the course of a bankruptcy. The owner name is titled "(Trustee name) in the bankruptcy proceeding of person X&Y".

What is the strategy behind this? Does persons X&Y still own the property after the bankruptcy is over, thus having the Trustee sign it back over once the smoke clears? What becomes of this?

awesome

I think you should go untill their lease is expired, then raise the rent. Otherwise you might end up with problems.