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All Forum Posts by: Cindy Joseph

Cindy Joseph has started 23 posts and replied 66 times.

Post: question on cast iron piping

Cindy JosephPosted
  • Posts 66
  • Votes 10
Quote from @Bob Stevens:
Quote from @Cindy Joseph:
Quote from @Bob Stevens:
Quote from @Cindy Joseph:

hello I am new to this and  looking at a property with cast iron pipes under the house built in 1957. There are no leaks. Was wondering how urgent is it to change to pvc? Also what would the total cost of replacing pvc look like? I understand that you have to tear up the floors to do this.  Its a a 2/1 duplex about 850 square feet each side. 

Are pipe liners any good? Ive heard mixed reviews on this. 

I do these all the time. cost about $1500. Its relatively easy. You do not have to tear up flooring. (not in my market )   I assume you are referring to just from meter in the basement to HW tanks, baths and kitchen. 

I think cast iron is under the house only  evereywhere else is pvc. Wow 1500 is much cheaper than quotes I've gotten which were 10-17k

 99.9999% get ripped off on all home repairs.  Wait you mean just from street to basement? I have done many of these. Depending how long the run is 8- 11k. BTW 5 years ago we did them for 6k. Not sure why things have gone up so much. The piping is inexpensive, 

All the best  


 I believe its just the piping under the house that is cast iron, the piping lateral to the house is pvc.  We only got one quote from a plumber that was 10-17k, definately going to get more. No basement- the house is in florida. Thanka dor your help!

Post: question on cast iron piping

Cindy JosephPosted
  • Posts 66
  • Votes 10
Quote from @Bob Stevens:
Quote from @Cindy Joseph:

hello I am new to this and  looking at a property with cast iron pipes under the house built in 1957. There are no leaks. Was wondering how urgent is it to change to pvc? Also what would the total cost of replacing pvc look like? I understand that you have to tear up the floors to do this.  Its a a 2/1 duplex about 850 square feet each side. 

Are pipe liners any good? Ive heard mixed reviews on this. 

I do these all the time. cost about $1500. Its relatively easy. You do not have to tear up flooring. (not in my market )   I assume you are referring to just from meter in the basement to HW tanks, baths and kitchen. 

I think cast iron is under the house only  evereywhere else is pvc. Wow 1500 is much cheaper than quotes I've gotten which were 10-17k

Post: question on cast iron piping

Cindy JosephPosted
  • Posts 66
  • Votes 10
Quote from @John Morgan:

I had a couple built in the mid 50’s replaced. Cost me around 6k. They have to tunnel under the whole house. I’d wait til they go out. You might get another decade out of them.


 thanks, so they didnt have to tear up the floors- they were able to dig under the house keeping the foundation intact?

Quote from @Luka Milicevic:

Is there a reason you're doing this change? 

You're going to have to reframe the top of the house/get new rafters is what it sounds like. If that's the case then yes it's going to be expensive. My question would be why are you doing this, if the roof is leaking you can maybe get a new roof and improve the pitch some, but changing the entire roof does not seem feasible to me based on the limited info I have here. 


 It was mainly to have easier access to the electric and plumbing. Roof needs to be redone asap but the other can wait 

Quote from @Bonnie Griffin Kaake:

@Cindy Joseph  I don't see where you mention what state you are in. If you are in a heavy snow state, flat roofs are discouraged or not permitted due to snow loads. Too many have collapsed with the weight and can become a liability for a rental property. If I were in your shoes, I would get an estimate and then decide. Many commercial buildings have flat roofs and in snow states, they tend to leak more often than pitched roofs. 

I am an inactive commercial broker in Colorado as well as a RE tax consultant for cost segregation, tangible property regulations and more. I have also done a podcast on BP about cost segregation.  


 In Florida so no snow thankfully 

Quote from @Matt Devincenzo:

First option to do this is reframing and shingle etc. This route will require structural calc's and drawings, permit. This will be a very costly option, but could be good if you need it to implement central HVAC or another consideration. 

If you're just trying to eliminate ponding and/or insulate the roof better, then you should consider a pitched foam type roof system. For commercial roofing there are pre-sloped foam segments that will put a very slight pitch on the flat roof to allow better drainage as well as creating an insulated system. You probably still will need a permit for this option but it should be more of a re-roof type permit and not nearly as costly or involved to implement. 


 The main reason for the pitched roof was to access the eletric and plumbing down the line for repairs, I wonder if the slight pitched one will allow for this

Quote from @Luka Milicevic:

Is there a reason you're doing this change? 

You're going to have to reframe the top of the house/get new rafters is what it sounds like. If that's the case then yes it's going to be expensive. My question would be why are you doing this, if the roof is leaking you can maybe get a new roof and improve the pitch some, but changing the entire roof does not seem feasible to me based on the limited info I have here. 


The roof needs to be redone asap. But the electrial and pipes need to be done in the next few years. With a flat roof, they said its harder to access the electrical/pipes vs a pitched roof. Thought that maybe if it made sense could do a pitched roof and wait on electrical/plumbing. If we do flat roof, it makes sense finacially to just do all at once.

hello I am looking to change my flat roof to a picthed roof for a prospective property. Its a 2/1 dupkex 1800 sq ft total. Is changing from pitched to flat substantually more expensive? Would anyone be willing to share estimates?

Post: question on cast iron piping

Cindy JosephPosted
  • Posts 66
  • Votes 10
Quote from @Kevin Sobilo:
Quote from @Cindy Joseph:
Quote from @Kevin Sobilo:

@Cindy Joseph, That isn't actually that old for cast iron pipes. For sewer pipes laid under the ground, I think they have an 80+ year expected life span. For pipes in houses, not buried underground I would expect them to last longer than that.

I would repair when there is an issue and replace whenever I do a renovation on plumbing such as doing a gut rehab on a bathroom.

I have houses that are older than yours 1900-1920ish and really never see issues with the cast iron. As an agent, I have seen a few instances of cast iron pipes failing but it isn't common at all and nothing on a house as new as yours. Those pipes might well last another 100 years.

Pipe liners are a good idea if you think you have a problem developing on the buried sewer pipe between your house and the lateral line in the street. Maybe the sewer line is cracked, or being infiltrated at a joint by roots etc. Since it isn't easily accessible  and expensive to dig up and replace a liner can be a good option. If you aren't having those kinds of issues, it isn't something I would worry about yet.


Thank you for your insigight. Just got the sewer scope results back and the report showed the "lateral line was old, cracked, rusting, damaged and should be replaced" and there were low spots noted in main and laterals. I am guessing this means more immediate replacement?

@Cindy Joseph, perhaps. All cast iron pipes are rusting so that scary word alone really doesn't mean much. They are fairly thick so they take a long time to rust through depending on the conditions.

Did they provide pictures of the cracks? Are there roots penetrating? Is there any kind of collapse where there are jagged edges that will catch things and cause blockages? Minor imperfections might persist for many years without causing an issue.

For me if there was nothing that is obviously going to cause an issue like tree roots or the line collapsing, I might take a measured approach and start budgeting for having it lined or replaced BUT I would probably wait and schedule it to be done during my next tenant turnover. 


 Fortunately there were no penetrating roots. There was no collapse but there was a foriegn object in one of the lines. No mention of jagged edges. I have attatched the pictures. Do you think I could wait in this case?

Post: question on cast iron piping

Cindy JosephPosted
  • Posts 66
  • Votes 10
Quote from @Kenneth Woodruff:

Replace with modern plumbing as soon as possible.  The last thing you want it demo on new construction to fix a cast swear, they do and will fail.

Cost depends on what is needed to get to it, we had a property with cast sewer running under a cement porch, we added a BR and during demo put the new sewer in for $3100.  32ft of run.  Feb of 2020


thank you! were all the pipes cast iron or just the one under the porch?