All Forum Posts by: Chris E.

Decided to stick with the attorneys office since we already had the ball rolling. We'll see how it goes. Should have the sale under contract tomorrow

Well they really aren't advising me I haven't even talked to an attorney, just a legal assistant who I sent my version of the offer to and and then they had an attorney draft the long version with a closing date of a month away. While I have an interested cash buyer, I want to get this deal done. 

Ok so were selling our first flip. We had a few minor things to finish up so we put it up for sale by owner locally and were going to have it listed by an agent next week. We immediately had interest and had someone make a cash offer that we are willing to accept. I asked a local attorney to look over my simple one page as-is offer to purchase. They emailed me back 11 pages of the standard WI real estate offer contract with a condition report we need to fill out. Was looking for advice on whether I really need the whole contract with condition report and everything? I don't want the buyer being intimidated by the long contract especially since they have cash and we own the property free and clear, and both of us want to close ASAP. I figured this should be a very simple deal.

Considering replacing a house rather than rehabing it. The house we own was built as a small 1 room cottage. In the 1940s. It has since been added onto several times to make it a 2 bedroom house with an odd floorplan and needs to be completely gutted at this point.

Im considering just replacing it with a basic prefab if i can find one at a price that makes sense. Anyone have any experience with costs of cheap prefab homes in southern wi? Just looking for 1500sq ft or less 2-3bed homes

Wasnt really thinking about the anchors pulling out. I could probably double up on them, the concrete is in good shape. But I do like the idea of pushing with a bottle jack and a 4x4. I could back my truck up against the garage and run the 4x4 into the bed to reduce the angle and get it as high up as I can. Seems like an over-all better method with less prep time and less risk

Red line shows about how the straps would be angled

I have a leaning garage on a property I just bought this week. It seems to be leaning because the garage was built in front of a smaller work shop. Instead of building the garage and making a doorway in the back to connect the two, they just built the garage without a back wall, so its just two side walls and a roof that has slowly shifted over the years. My plan is to use heavy duty 9000lb ratchet straps to pull the garage over. One at the front and one at the rear.  and then ad a half wall, with  well anchored sill plate on the floor to square it up. Heres my plan:

1. Mount a 6ft long 2x6 on the outside top of the wall on the left side, screwed to 3 or 4 studs.

2. Run a through bolt though the board, and garage siding/osb into the garage

3. attach ratchet strap to through bolt

4. attach other end of strap across the garage to through bolt on another board which is mounted to the floor using two 1/2 inch concrete anchors. (the kind that you drill a hole and then hammer them in the hole roughly 2 inches deep, rated for 3500lbs a piece)

Only real concern I can think of is the fact that Im pulling over and DOWN instead of just straight over. My dads idea was to use the same method only instead of pulling to the garage floor, he said to use the inside wall on the house to pull from and use 2x4s anchored from the wall studs to the floor joists to secure the wall. but id rather not use the house. It has a very old floor that already needs to be jacked up in areas due to sagging and I dont trust it. 

Anyone have any similar experience they'd like to share with fixing leaning buildings?

I own a couple of lots that Im curious on how deep they are. I know its 140ft deep but there is a very steep incline that runs along the entire property. Do surveyors remove the slope mathematically to find the 140 ft depth or do the basically run a measuring wheel down the hill for 140ft? (i know its done with more precise equipment than just a wheel) and I know I should get a survey obviously but Im just trying to get a general Idea of where I can expect the lot line to be. 

Ive been told by several people that closing on a cash deal with a title company shouldnt cost more than a few hundred dollars. I got the invoice today for a property Im closing on in 2 weeks and its $925. 

Policy Premium for Owner's $425

GAP Endorsement $125

Special Assessment letter $200

Closing fee $50

Borrowers charges $125

I assume the borrowers charges is something we dont need  to pay considering were paying cash. What about the rest of them?

Still havent decided what to do with the houses, just looking at all the options right now