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Updated over 4 years ago, 06/03/2020
Small to Medium Basement Leaks
I purchased a duplex last month that was built in 1921. There have been 2 days in the past month where we have gotten a TON of rain and we ended up with some small to medium size puddles in the basement. Is this cause for concern long-term for the property? I am occupying one of the units so I have been able to use a push broom to push the water towards the drain in the basement and get it dried out in a couple of hours.
The water comes in as a result of two things. First, the backyard is not graded correctly and it slopes towards the house which allows the water to pool and then it seeps in through a tiny hole. Second, the gutters are all routed into one PVC pipe that goes into the ground and I am assuming it connects to the driveway drain pipe underground in some manner but since that's where water is coming in, my guess is that there is something wrong with the connection.
My concern is that if I don't do anything about it, it will lead to foundation issues long-term as well as mold issues if, in the future, tenants are not as proactive as me with getting the basement dry. I am assuming that if I want to fix it properly, I need to get the backyard graded properly and dig into the ground to figure out the drain pipe issues on the driveway side of the house. However, the amount of water that comes in is really not that bad and if it's cleaned up appropriately, it doesn't really cause any issues because most of the basement is dry and we know not to store anything that can't get wet in those specific spots.
Looking for advice!
- Real Estate Broker
- 1658 N. Milwaukee Ave Ste B PMP 18969 Chicago, IL 60647
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@Andrew B. this may sound obvious, but make sure your gutters are totally cleared out. You would be surprised how many times leaks are caused by clogged gutters, down spouts, etc. That PVC pipe you are referencing could be clogged up, so check the easy stuff first. If that doesn't solve the issue the first thing you can try is injecting the cracks. Water proofing contractors can inject cracks with epoxy cement which can totally stop a small leak.
If you try these things and still have issues, then the only long term fix is installing drain tile and sump pumps. This is a worst case scenario though, because it costs a lot (10-20k in most cases).
Originally posted by @John Warren:
@Andrew B. this may sound obvious, but make sure your gutters are totally cleared out. You would be surprised how many times leaks are caused by clogged gutters, down spouts, etc. That PVC pipe you are referencing could be clogged up, so check the easy stuff first. If that doesn't solve the issue the first thing you can try is injecting the cracks. Water proofing contractors can inject cracks with epoxy cement which can totally stop a small leak.
If you try these things and still have issues, then the only long term fix is installing drain tile and sump pumps. This is a worst case scenario though, because it costs a lot (10-20k in most cases).
Is there a downside to injecting epoxy cement into the cracks? My fear is that if you fill the cracks, the water will just sit outside the foundation and cause the walls to bow inward over time. Is that a legitimate fear?
I have checked the gutters already and we are fine there but I will definitely inspect the PVC pipe myself and see if it is obstructed.
- Real Estate Broker
- 1658 N. Milwaukee Ave Ste B PMP 18969 Chicago, IL 60647
- 5,034
- Votes |
- 5,990
- Posts
@Andrew B. I don't think there is a down side to injecting cracks. A lot of times that is by far the best solution from a cost benefit stand point.
@Andrew B. Injecting cracks is eventually just going to end up with a leak somewhere else. Best solution is to figure out why water is coming in. Injecting will give you some time but no one could tell you how much. How far down on the walls is it leaking in?
Gutters, downspouts and PVC underground.....make sure they are all clear. Then any downspouts that empty into the yard (if any not underground) get extenders for. That will likely mitigate the problem immensely. The basement may still get a little wet, but as long as its not puddling, I wouldn't worry about it. Very common in early 20th century homes. If you get a lot of water, that's different. Sump pump would be a must at that point and likely drain tile next.
@Paul Shannon @Andrew B. If you're going to have to go the route Paul is saying, you're looking at $5k+
Sump pump install/drain tile, $5K yes, but saying start with the gutters and current drainage. In my experience clearing gutters and current drainage set-up and making sure they aren't clogged has saved me from having to take more expensive measures.
Originally posted by @Paul Shannon:
Sump pump install/drain tile, $5K yes, but saying start with the gutters and current drainage. In my experience clearing gutters and current drainage set-up and making sure they aren't clogged has saved me from having to take more expensive measures.
Agreed. Also banking the foundation away from the house. But if the leak is low on the wall, my bet is on it not turning out easy or cheap. At least not long term :(
First off, get a knowledgable inspector to tell you what you're dealing with and suggested remedies (if needed).
In general, moisture invasion is one of the bigger (i.e. more to fix) and more common items laying waste to property.
WAITING TO FIX MOISTURE INVASION MAKES IT MORE EXPENSIVE>
All the recommendations above are good. But older basements don’t have the same waterproofing used today. Sometimes they just leak.
I would make sure drains are clear, do what you can do to re-grade, and let any future tenant know to not store stuff on the floor. Put it in your lease too.
Around here a lot of the older houses are built with stone foundations... and water comes in occasionally. It’s one of the ‘benefits’ of an old house.
@Paul Shannon @Steven Epps
What is the best way to unclog underground PVC?
There are 4 spots where it is leaking. 3 spots are fairly close to ground level and one is about 5-6ft below ground level.
3 of the leaks (2 high, 1 low) are the result of a general down grade slope towards the house in the backyard.
The fourth leak is likely the result of a clogged underground PVC pipe.
The one thing that I will mention is that these leaks are quite small and only result in 1ft diameter puddles 1/8” or less deep. They also have only appeared on the rainiest of days we’ve had this spring. In talking to other owners in the area, this is fairly common and since the water doesn’t affect any mechanicals in our basement, I am less concerned overall. I mainly am trying to protect the value of the property long-term and avoid this issue developing into a much larger issue.
Originally posted by @Andrew B.:
@Paul Shannon @Steven Epps
What is the best way to unclog underground PVC?
There are 4 spots where it is leaking. 3 spots are fairly close to ground level and one is about 5-6ft below ground level.
3 of the leaks (2 high, 1 low) are the result of a general down grade slope towards the house in the backyard.
The fourth leak is likely the result of a clogged underground PVC pipe.
The one thing that I will mention is that these leaks are quite small and only result in 1ft diameter puddles 1/8” or less deep. They also have only appeared on the rainiest of days we’ve had this spring. In talking to other owners in the area, this is fairly common and since the water doesn’t affect any mechanicals in our basement, I am less concerned overall. I mainly am trying to protect the value of the property long-term and avoid this issue developing into a much larger issue.
Need a plumbers auger to run through the buried pvc to the sewer or edge of yard where the underground drain ends. Auger bit will grind/pull out any debris.
I had a duplex built in 1890 with a stone foundation. Water came in when there were heavy rains in a similar manner to what you describe. I used vinyl cement mixture to patch cracks in the wall. Then I painted the wall with two coats of Drylock, which is watertight. The water stopped coming in. Patching a wall doesn't cause a foundation to bow. It may or may not cause the water to come in another way - in my case it just kept the water out.
This is a three step effort in this order:
1. Fix the grading
2. Fix the gutters
3. Patch the foundation and water proof
Don't let the water keep coming in. Fix this problem.
Originally posted by @Paul Shannon:
Originally posted by @Andrew B.:
@Paul Shannon @Steven Epps
What is the best way to unclog underground PVC?
There are 4 spots where it is leaking. 3 spots are fairly close to ground level and one is about 5-6ft below ground level.
3 of the leaks (2 high, 1 low) are the result of a general down grade slope towards the house in the backyard.
The fourth leak is likely the result of a clogged underground PVC pipe.
The one thing that I will mention is that these leaks are quite small and only result in 1ft diameter puddles 1/8” or less deep. They also have only appeared on the rainiest of days we’ve had this spring. In talking to other owners in the area, this is fairly common and since the water doesn’t affect any mechanicals in our basement, I am less concerned overall. I mainly am trying to protect the value of the property long-term and avoid this issue developing into a much larger issue.
Need a plumbers auger to run through the buried pvc to the sewer or edge of yard where the underground drain ends. Auger bit will grind/pull out any debris.
Probably the only way you'll fix it. You could try lye/caustic soda but you'll have to have access and it's much more dangerous (lye burns). The heat could also cause problems. I'd leave that one to a pro. Auger is easy and DIY though.
Thanks for your input! To fix the grading, should I just talk to landscaping crews or is there another type of contractor that would be better suited?
Originally posted by @Andrew B.:
Thanks for your input! To fix the grading, should I just talk to landscaping crews or is there another type of contractor that would be better suited?
Just a landscaper. Have them regrade and put rock/plastic around the foundation to shed water away. Every house I buy the first call is to my landscaper to add dirt, plastic and rock around the exterior. It always settles around the house over time. I have found 90% of water issues can be fixed by just doing that.
What is a ballpark estimate I should be looking for? I know every job has it's own scope but would be helpful to know a rough range so I know I am getting an honest quote.
@Andrew B.
I’m a forensic structural engineer, just plug the hole when it’s dry with some repair material from Home Depot. Clean it out first though. It’s a puddle of water coming through an obvious hole, not a big deal. If you had cracks in the wall and seepage often, then I’d be concerned. Keep an eye on it though. I do suggest regrading too but you should only have to do a few feet from house around the perimeter, not the entire yard like what @Joe Splitrock is saying. Water proofing barrier doesn’t sound super important in this case, you just need the water to not accumulate and stay next to the house.
@Andrew B.
You can also get an endoscope inspection camera on amazon for like $20 to look inside the pvc for roots or just leaves and dirt. But I also just like buying new toys
Originally posted by @Andrew B.:
What is a ballpark estimate I should be looking for? I know every job has it's own scope but would be helpful to know a rough range so I know I am getting an honest quote.
You are probably talking $1200 to $2500 depending on the extent. If they can just put some dirt around the foundation and cover it with plastic/rock, it would be on the lower end. If they have to regrade more of the yard, then on the higher end. That is based on my market with a small independent landscaper.
@Andrew B.
If it is as you say then it is an easy and extremely important fix. Add soil to regrade, and get those downspouts pointed towards a 4x4” 6’ tall post that is at least 10’ away from your foundation wall. It looks ugly, and it works.
@Andrew B. I've had to deal with a similar problem and was pleasantly surprised to find that re-grading so the ground slopes away from the foundation worked very well and wasn't very expensive. Just the last few feet is enough but also make sure that your gutters and downspouts are directing rain water away from the building too. As far as augering out your drainage system, you can rent a power auger and do it yourself (or hire someone) but be prepared for it to take several hours if the blockage is significant. The good news is this is very straight-forward too, and can make a significant positive improvement. The suggestions for epoxy into obvious cracks are decent too, really no downside to doing this.