Refinish hardwood or install LVP?
I'm renovating a unit in my 5-plex (first multi-family rental property for me). We removed old disgusting carpet, and found fir (?) floors underneath. They have clearly been sanded many times and are kind of thin, but would probably hold up for another sanding (per flooring contractors who have taken a look). There's some water damage in one bedroom that may require patching on a small area.
My question:
Is it worth spending the $ to refinish, or should I just install LVP on top of the wood? Wood floors would definitely be a nice selling point in this market, and would go with the historic nature of the house, but I also liked the look of the LVP I installed in another unit, and I like the durability of LVP. I've been given quotes for refinishing the hardwood at around $2,800, and purchasing LVP would be around $2500, with installation costs being the unknown factor.
Thanks in advance!
#5 Investor Mindset Contributor
- Investor
- Greenville, SC
refinish hardwoods...no question
Totally agree with @Mike Dymski refinish them
Thanks for your responses. The floors are in pretty bad shape and not super nice floors to start with. I think they will look OK refinished but not fantastic.
I like hardwoods but I am very happy with the LVP I have been putting in on turnovers now. If it were me I would do the hardwoods I can see a nice tenner appreciateing that.
Install modern laminated flooring with new sound barrier and moisture barrier-silver. It even provides some thermal resistance with the foil and bubbles. People like new looks. Make sure it is 12 mm or thicker. The cost for me is $1.45/sf+ installation. Make sure your doors do not need to be shaved off.
Real wood floors always look great and are a great selling/renting feature. I'm not sure how involved you want to get with the labor process (if at all) but it's pretty cheap to re-finish hardwood floors yourself. Now if your floors have quite a few damaged spots, that definitely adds more time a bit of complexity to the job since you'll be doing carpentry.
I have personally refinished about a dozen hardwood floors (both pine and oak) on properties that I own and have achieved really great results for a fraction of the price a flooring contractor would charge. Here is a quick breakdown of costs/labor and what we do:
1. On a 1000 sf home, one guy runs a drum sander (with belts about $80-$100/day rented from Home Depot), one guy runs a hand-held belt sander ($30 at Harbor Freight), and the third guys runs a 6" Rigid orbital sander (about $130 purchase at HD). Three guys can take care of 1000sf in 5-6 hours.
2. Vacuum up the floors thoroughly and then wipe down with tack cloth.
3. Using a lambs wool applicator on a pole and a paint brush for the edges, apply a coat of sanding sealer. I've used both Minwax and Parks products but prefer the Minwax. Read instructions but you may have to lightly abrade the floor after the sanding sealer and wipe again with a tack cloth.
4. Apply a coat of Minwax (oil-based) polyurethane with a different lambs wool applicator. Read the instructions, there are specifics about re-coating and as long as you re-coat after a certain number of hours but not to exceed xx hours, you don't need to sand (lightly abrade) the floor between coats. I typically to just two coats but some would argue three or more is better but my floors have held up nicely for years.
If you're tight on your budget and you want to save some money and maybe learn something, even with having to purchase the orbital and belt sanders, you should be able to refinish 1000 square feet in two days for around $500 ($350-ish if you can borrow the tools or next time after you already own them.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Anna W. Wood. Durability and the ability to repair easily when needed.
Refinish the wood! I just did that this spring in my rental. I was also told after 3-5 years to have the floors buffed and then clear coated again. You can do this for about $1.50 per sf. I get they sand up better than you think. If not it only adds character to the floors. Remember furniture may cover some of the bad areas.
Originally posted by @Anna W.:
Thanks for your responses. The floors are in pretty bad shape and not super nice floors to start with. I think they will look OK refinished but not fantastic.
Pretty hard to call for one or the other without seeing the existing floors. You seem to be indicating that the existing floors are in pretty bad shape. Any photos?
I've faced the same issue with oak floors.
Depends of the rental class. Also oxymoronically, fir is a soft hardwood, so it will get beat up fast. The duration of a sand and poly job will be 5-10 years, LVP will last much longer
Unless my rents were class A or $1500+. I'd go LVP. Certainly cheaper in long run
Tenants often cannot tell whether it is real wood or not. And they really just care if it looks good. If you go with lvt, give your tenants a packet of felt pads and tell them to place under all furniture, especially chairs.
Originally posted by @Sam Shueh:
Install modern laminated flooring with new sound barrier and moisture barrier-silver. It even provides some thermal resistance with the foil and bubbles. People like new looks. Make sure it is 12 mm or thicker. The cost for me is $1.45/sf+ installation. Make sure your doors do not need to be shaved off.
Do you mean 12MIL wear layer or 12mm total thickness? The wear layer is normally either 6, 12, or 20 MIL. Total thickness can vary depending on core, etc. Also, are you talking about glue install? LVP can be done lots wrong ways. I have heard that in recent years the 6MIL wear layer will last ten years and feel/look great as long as prepped and installed with quality glue. Thoughts?
Laminated is currently popular in West. Installed interleave only. The adhesive will out gas to the point that may make some residents sick. Several lawsuits going on here on the completely glue flooring. Most million dollar homes are installed with either 25 or 12 mm total thickness. Labor is so costly remodeller just tear them out replace another style as opposed to polish.
From just a cost stand point, you can install Vinyl Plank Flooring for $1.59/sqf and it will last 10 plus years (i think the warranty is 20 years) , at least. If you redo the wood floors, how long before you need to redo them again? If the answer is less than 10 years, then i say Vinyl. They will hold up longer, and look newer in the long run. Dont use up the last sanding on those floors just to be ruined by tenants in 5 years.
BUT, it also depends on the competition and your market. If your market is super high end with people who can truly tell the difference between hardwood and vinyl, then you may want to stay competitive and go wood.
You can shop that price around though most contractors are happy to undercut their competition. I see both sides of this argument some people just like the look and frankly that’s it’s only appeal. Refinishing would take way longer and be much harder To make them look even lVinyl is just a better product all around there is no excuse not to with the textured and scraped nobody can tell if you have pets or kids vinyl it is a no brainer I have a German shepherd and after 8 years it’s like new not a scratch she has hAd accidents as a puppy no big deal vinyl is water proof hardwood isn’t, anyone can lay A floating floor refinishing takes skill. Hardwood is difficult to work with and can leave noticeable patchwork even being refinished they can be noisy When walking on it While with a padded under laminate vinyl is noise free it will look new still by the time the hardwood needs refinishing
@Anna W.
Yikes to that price quote. I’ve had floors refinished many times and it was always cheaper than vinyl plank.
With wood floors you already have the material for the most part. And the labor is a relatively quick and simple process.
I used vinyl once and it is okay but I did get really small scratch marks from the stove legs. You can see them when the floor gets dusty.