Determining load bearing wall

[Jody Young]

I'm working on my third flip and want to open up the living space. How do most people determine if a wall separating the living room and kitchen is load bearing in a traditional rectangle shaped home?

If this wall is load bearing, I want to cut out a pass through window. However, my first preference would be to take out the whole wall.

Attached is a pic I took during one a walk through. The wall behind the chair is my target and runs perpendicular to the trusses. Thanks!

[Jon Holdman]

The best solution here is to hire a structural engineer.  If there are trusses the usual method of looking for splices in the ceiling joists won't work.  But the wall may still be structural to support the trusses, depending on how they were sized.  I did this for a project last year (though just had final inspections last week).  It was about $350 to get him to come out and look at what I wanted to do and advise me.  He then inspected the work after it was done and wrote a letter for the city saying it was correct.  He could have made and stamped drawings but this was a cheaper approach.  My project was a bit more complex because I was moving multiple walls.  

This was money well spent.  He advised me how to put a beam over the joists where I was removing a bearing wall and then tie these together with hurricane ties. I had to add posts to support that beam.  The end result left the living area completely clear of beams.  No headers or anything in the living space.  And much easier than what I was expecting to have to do.

If you DIY'ing this project (I did) a pneumatic palm nailer is a lifesaver.  Swinging a hammer is impossible in tight spaces and a regular nailer isn't precise enough to hit the holes in the various hangers.  I was surprised, but the palm nailer will sink a 16d nail into a board like a hot knife through butter.  I think is was $25 or so at Harbor Freight.