Self Storage- Boat/Vehicle/RV storage

[Henry Clark]

@ R follow up on separate post.  How to pick a location.  Also showing you customer considerations.  Use this as you plan your location.

CONSIDERATIONS FOR RV OR VEHICLE STORAGE

A. Pull through- The front, pull as far forward as possible, gives the person next to you an easier angle to turn into, from behind you. Align your front with the fronts of all other vehicles. Be courteous and leave enough room on the Driver side, so that RV can open their doors.

B. Back to back parking- our locations are set up at 60 degree parking. Also, they are setup for the driver to back in on their side, so they can use the lot next to them for alignment. This way you only have one blind side on the right side backing in. Otherwise you have two blind sides.

We have 20/30/40 foot parking at our location at xxxxxx. Each size has a different width due to how hard it is to park a longer unit at the very front angle of their turn in. 20’s- 10 wide; 30’s- 12 wide; 40’s- 15 wide. Although you could park an RV in any of these sizes, it is easier with a wider width to make the “front” turn. Or ask for an end parking spot, so you are doing a 90 degree parking, but have the whole drive way to back in with, without a turn.

C. Canopy- same issues as others, depending on if 60 degree or 90 degree parking.

D. Enclosed- Really a matter of width and depth. Keep in mind all measurements for storage are relative. For example: A 10 wide x 20 deep x 8 tall unit, with studs, roll up door and door jambs; is really 9 wide x 19 ft 6 inch deep x 7 ½ foot tall. Also if you have a 20 ft boat or Camper, its really 22/23/24 ft depending on Propeller, bumper or front hitch.

E. Surface- Rock or hard surface (concrete/asphalt); If on rock/asphalt put your tongue leg or stabilizer pads on wider pads to spread the weight out. These pads are needed on Asphalt since in hot weather they will sink into the asphalt.

F. Pest control- we put mouse bait out along the fence lines and under the units, mow excess weeds and grass. You should put both rodent and bug control in your unit. Dispose of all food sources, for long term storage. If you want to be really diligent with pest control, don’t park next to overhead lights. They attract bugs at night and then mice underneath. Put scented drier sheets in all compartments and rooms. Open all cabinets and doors.

G. Stabilizers- if doing long term storage put you stabilizers down. Most parking is in an open area and the units can rock and move with the wind. This will also help with taking pressure off your tires so they last longer.

H. Security- Put a lock on the hitch. Although you are in a secure location, RV’s and trailers are the easiest storage to break into or take without notice. Recommend you put in motion sensors or GPS tracking security. Check your vehicle at least twice a month. Most Security systems only maintain footage for 2 weeks due to camera memory capacity.

I. Propane Fuel Tanks- disconnect and store if leaving for long term storage.

J. Electronic Lifts- disconnect the battery if leaving for long term storage.

K. Insurance- most storage unit insurance policies do not cover vehicles. Keep your insurance, just have them adjust your automobile to fewer miles or just comprehensive coverage. Wind, Flood, tornado, Hail, or third party damage or theft can still occur. Traditional insurance coverage, RV’s normally stay a flat rate throughout the year, thus you will still need to maintain full coverage. Or, if you seek out a specific RV or rec vehicle insurance company, you can move in and out of winterization rates.

L. Pricing- use a 30 foot vehicle as an example:

-In the country about a $1 per foot on rock.

-With Paved access and parking spot, this might run $60 to $90

- Enclosed parking this will cost about $120 to $170 for a 30 foot.

- Enclosed parking for a 50 foot, might cost $225 to $350.

The price extremes are the cost of the concrete/asphalt road and the storage bay. Also the longer the unit the price goes up significantly because it takes more driveway width to park and the type of door changes in both size and type (remote operated). A 50 ft RV will require about a 70 foot wide driveway to back in.

We are only addressing the long term Parking portion of storage. Other items are specific to each vehicle such as water clean out, Tire/window shades, etc.

Quick non Parking list:

Wheel/tire covers; Vehicle cover.

Remove and store your tires.

Store with a full fuel tank to prevent condensation

Add fuel stabilizers

Place RV completely off the ground to prevent flat spots on your tires, if left for a long time.

Cover your HVAC, skylights, vents and windows to prevent exposure to sun and breakdown.

Boats leave your plug out, whether covered or not.

Site selection and Site building:

Surface, Canopy, Enclosed.

• Just talking Surface, not enclosed. 
  
  Have run the numbers about 10 times on Enclosed, but I would have to charge $225 to $350 per month and don't have that market here. Have only seen one location on the interstate near Oklahoma City that had that market ($150,000 to $500,000 RV's) and they were full. They have a lot of $1mm homes and lakes nearby. You have to do Concierge services for that market. Battery charger, turn fridge on before trips, Dump station, Concierge parking service, Tire/Oil/etc check, Big drive ways, electric in each unit, etc.
  
  Canopy, I have seen in Texas. Cant say much, haven't researched it.
  
  I have been in two other models. Old welding shop with 40 foot roofs. Spots are "crammed in". They park and  unpark for you.
  Another, is winter only. You go "in" the fall and everyone comes "out" the same time in the spring. They also have a lot of outside spaces. Both of these models were full.
  
  Attached below is an Inventory list of an exact 2 acre parking lot we have. Also the row configuration. See cut and past below.    Back to Back parking to use less driveways, even though everyone would prefer "drive through" parking.
  
  Might not apply if your on concrete, which would be great, but I'll throw these out anyway.
  Its on rock. Use 1 1/2 inch with "Fines". Cost about $20,000 for rock delivered.
  Put Geogrid underneath, so no potholes after 4 years. Otherwise, you need to put a base of 3 inch rock first, then the 1 1/2 with fines. Be careful if you blade snow.
  Payback is about 12 years.
  Not the best use of the land, but didn't need it at the time for storage.
  Put at 60 degree angle, otherwise you get a lot less spaces, since your driveways have to be wider. Example: If you do 90 degrees parking on a 50 foot space, you might need a 70 foot driveway. Also 60 degrees makes it easy for the driver. Also put the 60 degrees turn on the driver side window so they can see the turn.
  Put a Wire and posts down the middle of the shared back to back parking so vehicles stay on their side. Used other posts, stakes, number signs (reflective) to define each space.
  Mix. Went with even surface area for 20/30/40 foot spaces. Did not do any 50's for large RV's. Where we are at, most RV's are in the $10,000 to $70,000 range. Actually worked out pretty good. The 20's have a few vacancies.
  Price $20/$30/$40. This is in a 10,000 population community with about 4 no wake lakes to the East within 60 miles. Prices could be higher, but= No city restrictions on vehicles, which would increase your market. Plus we are in the country, where you can find a friend to park.
  Run light and security camera poles first.
  Definitely put a "License Plate" specific camera at a narrow point and other cameras and lights at that bottleneck. Our spot is fenced off from the Storage location, with one access point, no gate there. Recommend your NVR has a timeline with Red markers for motion on your cameras.
  Layout and capacity really depends on the lot shape. The same two acres, could probably get about 30% more if it was a rectangle versus a square, due to less turnarounds.
  
  
• Site selection:
• a.  Near two way intersection or cross light.
• b.  On the way to entertainment area.  Preferably out of city limits, so land and regs are cheaper.
• c.  Near the city or near the water.  Look at your hurricane impact.  You might prefer closer to the city, versus the water.
• d.  Level.
• e.  Preferably on the Right side of the highway or interstate on the way to the water.  Also after you get off the exit, a right turn back towards the city.  That way people see you prior to the off ramp.  
• Attachment:
  This is a relaxed layout, I did not try to cram the spaces in.
  

  Rows and Road Configuration
  A	Road	B	C	Road	D	E	Road	F
  This layout is on a 2 acre square.
  Roads are all the same width.
  All rows are set at 45 degree angles

  Unit	Description	Row:
  G001	1x20x1	A
  G002	1x20x1	A
  G003	1x20x1	A
  G004	1x20x1	A
  G005	1x20x1	A
  G006	1x20x1	A
  G007	1x20x1	A
  G008	1x20x1	A
  G009	1x20x1	A
  G010	1x20x1	A
  G011	1x20x1	A
  G012	1x20x1	A
  G013	1x20x1	A
  G014	1x20x1	A
  G015	1x20x1	A
  G016	1x20x1	B
  G017	1x20x1	B
  G018	1x20x1	B
  G019	1x20x1	B
  G020	1x20x1	B
  G021	1x20x1	B
  G022	1x20x1	B
  G023	1x20x1	B
  G024	1x20x1	B
  G025	1x20x1	B
  G026	1x20x1	B
  G027	1x20x1	B
  G028	1x20x1	B
  G029	1x20x1	B
  G030	1x20x1	B
  G031	1x30x1	C
  G032	1x30x1	C
  G033	1x30x1	C
  G034	1x30x1	C
  G035	1x30x1	C
  G036	1x30x1	C
  G037	1x30x1	C
  G038	1x30x1	C
  G039	1x30x1	C
  G040	1x30x1	C
  G041	1x30x1	C
  G042	1x30x1	C
  G043	1x30x1	C
  G044	1x30x1	C
  G045	1x30x1	C
  G047	1x40x1	D
  G048	1x40x1	D
  G049	1x40x1	D
  G050	1x40x1	D
  G051	1x40x1	D
  G052	1x40x1	D
  G053	1x40x1	D
  G054	1x40x1	D
  G055	1x40x1	D
  G056	1x40x1	D
  G057	1x40x1	D
  G058	1x40x1	D
  G059	1x40x1	D
  G060	1x30x1	E
  G061	1x30x1	E
  G062	1x30x1	E
  G063	1x30x1	E
  G064	1x30x1	E
  G065	1x30x1	E
  G066	1x30x1	E
  G067	1x30x1	E
  G068	1x30x1	E
  G069	1x30x1	E
  G070	1x30x1	E
  G071	1x30x1	E
  G072	1x40x1	F
  G073	1x40x1	F
  G074	1x40x1	F
  G075	1x40x1	F
  G076	1x40x1	F
  G077	1x40x1	F
  G078	1x40x1	F
  G079	1x40x1	F
  G080	1x40x1	F
  G081	1x40x1	F
  G082	1x40x1	F
  G083	1x40x1	F
  G084	1x40x1	F
  G085	1x40x1	F
  G086	1x40x1	F
  G087	1x40x1	F
  G088	1x40x1	F
  G089	1x40x1	F