What does two meters and one boiler mean?

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This is true but with conditions. You will have to split up the hot water lines to the radiators as well. If you are lucky each unit will be on a separate piping circuit and you can tie that circuit to the new boiler. Worst case, you will have to redo the piping as well as install a new boiler. Hope this helps.

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If each unit has its own thermostat it is likely plumbed separate and will require minimal re-plumbing. When it comes to boiler work it is best to hire someone who is a pro. A friend of mine runs a business strictly for fixing boiler messes. (meaning someone screwed up)

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This is not a selling point to anybody who is aware of how tenants use utilities, especially heat. Please read some of MikeOH's posts on how tenants will place ice packs on the thermostat and have the windows open to get the heater to produce more heat. Even when you "think" that you compensated for having to pay for tenants' heat, they'll find a way to make you pay more than that. And I agree that $35 is nothing significant - and it DOESN'T EVEN COME CLOSE to the heat used by a tenant. I'll save everybody the trouble of searching for that post I mentioned - here it is: http://www.biggerpockets.com/forums/52/topics/39794-heating-season

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I think you got your answer from previous posters. It always makes sense to get those utility costs down to your tenants as soon as its $$$ feasible. Tenants will take advantage of landlord supplied utilities. I get a chuckle every time a prospective tenant asks about whats included in the rent. Uh um, a roof over your head LOL... Get a HVAC licensed professional to look at your options. Get 3 separate bids and perform some diligence on their references. You actually have the hard part already done by having the separated meters already. Many other factors to consider as some mentioned, separated loops, installing a chimney liner, hot water tanks, etc... Try to stay conventional vs high efficiency if you can, cheaper and easier to maintain. There are many pluses and minuses and only a HVAC person looking at your situation can tell you what can work in your situation. Here was my last year project - http://www.biggerpockets.com/blogs/4313-why-residential-multi-family-properties

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That is NOT what you should have gotten from reading this thread. Two separate gas meters, two separate heating systems, two separate hot water heaters, two separate cooking fuel sources ... in other words, two totally separate systems so that each tenant is individually responsible for utility usage for their unit. Consider electric baseboard heat for the third floor unit, so that each tenant would pay for their own heat.

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Do I read correctly there exists Gas hot water boilers made with 2 gas line supply sources so it could supply heating to 2 apartments who would pay their utility bills separately? I need a new boiler soon for my 2nd floor, but would like to use it for 3rd floor unit also if that is possible with one boiler install.. thanks!

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I would recommend leaving it as is. If there are problems down the road, then you could potentially use that as an opportunity to reorganize and restructure things. As they say, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Many times, utilities included can be a selling point - especially for people with poor credit, etc. Utilities might cost you an extra $35 so you charge them accordingly, $50 more in rent. And when things break down, maybe that's a time when you could fix things to your liking.

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Just to add my 2 cents. I have come across this before and what's stated above is true. You'll need to add another boiler and do some P&H work, although somewhat miminal. I would also recomend to check with your state or town on permits. I work in the state of VT..anyone touching P&H in a rental property has to have a license. The process is still fairly staight forward: fill out a construction permit, have a licensed P&H person do the work, and have it inspected. If you go to sell the place in a few years, all your paperwork will be in order. Tom

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Adding another boiler might require you to introduce more air to support combustion, or else run the risk of backdrafting of fresh air through the exhaust system (the chimney). If air for combustion has to come from the chimney, this is usually a code violation. There is something called an "air make up kit" (called a scuttle I think) that is used to bring in outside air to avoid combustion air coming down the chimney. Or, you can get direct vented equipment that will have a direct air intake and direct exhaust, so that the new boiler does not get it's air from the boiler room. These direct vent systems also have the plus of better energy efficiency (at higher price for buying the boiler). As to separating cooking gas - well, you might already have that since there are two meters. Or electric cooking can be used as an alternative.