At yet another sale there was a brick row house/town house for sale that looked good from the street, but since it was in the middle of the row, to see the back of the house, you had to walk around the block and see the house from the alley, where the entire 3 story brick back wall of the house was laying in the back yard, and there was no back wall standing. 

Should I go through with taking ownership of the property and try to salvage it for profit or do I refrain from even involving myself in the situation as it may cost more than it's worth to save it?

She walked away with $1,500 in hand, and we salvaged the deal, netting $8,500 in the process.That deal reinforced two crucial lessons: first, title issues can create unexpected hurdles, even in straightforward transactions.

Usually an issue if older door is salvaged and new locks are installed that don't quite match up with the old door strike plate location.

There is still some value there although distressed unless its a tear down in my opinion for the foundation and exterior walls if salvageable .

He said it kept the bank from having to execute the eviction process, it salvaged the owners credit by not having a foreclosure on it, and the buyer gets it a much lower cost, because of the leverage of the impending foreclosure.

My previous tenant left the yard in a poor condition before moving out.

Maybe they would/could take it upon themselves to pay for the repairs to the roof to salvage your unit and prevent further damage then they would go after the HOA to recoup costs.

(c) Minimum front yard: 30 feet distance from front property line to building.

I have done some research on ADUs and have come to conclusion that getting a house near a hospital or good college area with a big yard to add an adu and convert gargae to junior adu would be best.