Spray on after pointing, this stuff just beads water right off the masonry and has a life of 3-4 yrs. 

If foam is too expensive, maybe just spray with primer to keep the wood from absorbing moisture.

But at this point, my contractor recommends I get Terminex to spray it all down and that should be sufficient.

Thicker products will dull the effects of the brick softening corner and filling in mortar lines so, think it through.Application: You can prime in the morning and technically paint in the evening depending on condition and mil. application thicknesses preferred and the product but try and stick with: clean 1 day, primer next, paint next avoid any potential issues (outgassing, drying issues, adhesion issues, etc...).I'd spray...

Paint the basement floors(gray is nice) and walls(white) (use DryLok on the walls) and spray paint the ceiling with flat black.  

You can also seal the walls with drywall compound and Spray on a knockdown or orange peal finish then paint it. 

After Sandy in 2012 destroyed a home my sister and I owned in New York, we gutted the entire thing down to studs and sub flooring, had it remediated for mold, insulated with closed cell spray foam, used environmentally sustainable building materials and rented it out for much more than what we were getting before the storm.

No "smoking gun" that there are bed bugs -- but the spray cans are a pretty strong indicator.  

@Tammy Wise CLR is a very good hard water deposit remover but it's pretty caustic on the skin and don't spray it indoors unless you want to die!

I also wonder how the property owners will like the weekly 4am sulphur sprays that vineyards require.