So definitely take note of the "big 4" while you are looking at the property (Roof, A/C *indoor and outdoor*, Plumbing, Electrical), plus anything else you can see.

I am sure that there are a bunch of caveats, like the previous owner's mortgage when you're only covering the back taxes at the sale...Your help is appreciated!

Pro tip: take particular care to cover book shelves—removing dust from our books was one of the most time-consuming cleaning jobs we faced. 2.Pack as though you will be travelingThink carefully about everything you will need over the full duration of the renovation (plus the inevitable extension) when packing.

As for over-leveraging, so long as you retain around 30%+ equity in properties whose rent more than covers all expenses (including up to 70% LTV), would you really (need to) worry about that level of debt?

Just trying to plan going forward for each property I get-Capex for roof/hvac and two months rent in reserves is what I was planning on before I get leveraged with a new property.  

The buyers inspectors literally praised the work we had done throughout, but a week ago the CL-100 wood infestation inspection came back noting a small bit of non-structural exterior sheathing damage along the bottom of the back wall behind the vinyl siding due to moisture :( The good news is we are 99.9% sure the issue was caused by rain water coming off of the roof and landing in an area that had standing water before we brought in some dirt and gravel to resolve the drainage issue during the remodel (townhouse is on a slab). 

Make sure you have the cash to cover the mortgage, while also accounting for the payments during reno period when you don't have tenants.2) being near a university is great as long as your close enough.

If you are covered by an employer sponsored retirement plan (i.e. the Solo 401(k)) your income level may prohibit deductions for IRA contributions.Here is IRS info on the topic:https://www.irs.gov/retirement-plans/plan-particip...

.• On any lot with an existing single-family dwelling unit, where regardless of zoning, the lot has any of the following General Plan Land Use/Transportation designations:- Residential Neighborhood- Mixed-Use Neighborhood- Urban Village or Urban Residential- Transit Residential or Rural Residential- Downtown- Mixed-Use Commercial• On two-family (duplex) lots and on multifamily properties• In a low-density cluster development if it conforms to development standards of the R-1 zoning district, and the development and use standards of the low-density cluster permit.Minimum Lot Size3,000 square feetNo minimum lot sizeMinimum Setbacks from Rear and Side Property Lines0 feet for 1-story conversions and new construction.5 feet for second-story ADUs constructed above a garage or accessory structure.0 feet for 1-story conversions and new construction.4 feet for second-story ADUs constructed above a garage or accessory structure4 feet minimum rear and side setbacks required for detached ADU in multifamily developments.Maximum HeightFor detached ADUs:Single story – 18 feet maximumSecond story – 24 feet maximumAttached ADUs are subject to the height limits of the main home.Single-family properties - No change in height requirements.Multifamily properties - 16 feet maximum height for detached ADUs.Rear Yard CoverageArea covered by the ADU, accessory buildings, and accessory structures, except pools, shall not exceed forty percent (40%) of the rear yard.Area covered shall not exceed forty percent (40%) of the rear yard or up to 800 square feet, whichever is greater.Detached ADU Allowed LocationsRear yard only, at least 6 feet away from primary dwelling.May be attached to a detached garage or other existing accessory structure.Must meet minimum setbacks for an accessory building in accordance with Section 20.30.500.No changes except that ADUs that exceed forty percent (40%) of the rear yard must maintain minimum 4 foot side and rear setbacks.

Banks have "Loan Loss Reserves" set aside to cover the difference.