If that search comes up dry and the letter comes back as "undeliverable / no forwarding address", I send everything I know to my skip tracer and have them work on it.

I repeat use a flexible block or get the 3m sponge pad sand paper. otherwise your job will not look as professional. the un-eveness of your palm would show in the final product.The flexible blocks or sponge pads allow you to get a real even brush stroke look.They are meant to be used dry. although I probably could have gotten similar resultswith a flexible block and wet sand paper.

yes I understand there are too many variables and its difficult to detail in forum; initially I thought of taking full dry walls out and do the complete renovation; afterwards realized I may not need to take all walls at all; but still need full HVAC duct work and need to take the existing one out as it is not placed right; and need to add heat system on the same A/c duct work (basically central heat and A/c with 4-zone system); kitchen needs to be redone completely, take out existing put the new one with Gas stove (currently it is electric stove); 2 bathrooms full renovation; apart from that full floor (around 1700 sqft; in that 800 is in basement floor), window replacements (around 9 double hung window and 1 bay window); all interior doors needs to be replaced, new insulation, drywall and veneer plaster; but no wall move or anything (just take the existing one and replace); still it is significant work.

My credit is not the Best, but not the worst either....around the middle. and with me having a 6 member familyto support, my ability to put 'skin in the game' is rather difficult.Any suggestions???

Lite sand (180-220 grit) with the grain, vacuum, wipe down twice with damp towel, let dry, tape off walls and floors, stain first coat wiping with the grain using a sock/towel & let dry, stain second coat the next day.

The well could also run dry causing issues with water access to live on."

Either way, you need to factor ongoing maintenance expenses into your calculation - it's not going to be as cut and dry as $500/month in profit ($2000 rent - $1500 payment).3) Make sure to do proper tenant screening - credit history, references, etc. - even if you know the renters.

I'm in a 11 month dry spell.

I have a similar 1926 Spanish bungalow in LA (3bed 2 bath, 1300sqft, single level), that i just rebuilt completely, so here's my 2 cents1. with plumbing and sewer, make sure that you insect and assess the main drain line form house to street sewer - in houses of that age, they are cast iron and are often buried under a concrete driveway. if it needs to be replaced, make sure re-pavement of driveway is accounted for2. houses of that age have often started as 2bed 1bath and then somewhere along the way been converted to say 3/2 - mine was in the 70's. ask whoever inspecting the foundation to pay attention to the way it's laid out - variation in crawl-space hight, floor joists and different materials used for pillars that house sits on could point to an addition. flat roof over one of the bedrooms or bathrooms in an otherwise house with an attic is another sign it's been added. either way, check with the city that those additions are legal/permitted3. termite damage and dry rot in California and Arizona is a given - in any house, especially that old. as you walk around the rooms, stop in each corner of every room and jump up a few times - if the floor is soft and even a sign of weakness, i bet you you'll have to re-drywall, remove subfloor and repair floor joists in at lest half of that room. just a simple "poking wood for termites" test from the crawl space often misses that. i like my jumping test as well5. size and age of electrical panel - yes, but also age of main electrical wire runs is important. those are usually suspended in crawl spaces or laying on top of ceiling joists in the attic. old wire should be replaced as it's a potential fire-hazard surrounded by all the old fluffy insulation that's in old attics - speaking of fluffy insulation, i hear in some cases it could contain asbestos, so wouldn't hurt to checkfyi, just installed central air in my house and my best estimate - had 7 total - came through Costco at just under $7000 for a 3-ton Lennox system (heat and cool), all new ductwork, permit and inspections. curious as to what your HVAC bid was

Some require monthly payouts, some just want the money to grow and they'll take it out when the project sells.Your investor is going to want you to have "skin in the game."