:)We have the firm jigglies over here, home of the plastic surgery!

OTOH, this is really only an issue on exposed metal or people, so insulated wiring or plastic piping should be unaffected.

If I use this kind of material (or even a cheapy plastic 5 piece tub surround) does it matter what is behind it (e.g. sheet rock, green board, etc.)?

The seller "fixed it" (spacing) by zip tying lattice to all the spindles....yes, zip ties and plastic lattice....smh i tore out all the spindles, patched holes, repainted, then sunk all new spindles using 3" screws.

Plastic one piece bathrooms with tub and shower, original carpet and tile and thirty year old toilets, sinks and water stops.

The problem is there was some things not done to code i.e. the furnace wasn't installed properly and has to be redone before a tenant could move in, venting for plumbing is being vented in attic, and the minor one is that the water heater has plastic piping going to it instead of the copper....

It was just kind of tinny.  3/8 drywall more easily hole-prone, cabinets made out of particle board with no top or back, hollow-core doors with cardboard 'struts', 2X2 stud walls, poly plumbing. plastic washerless faucets,etc. 

the tenants are also cool with covering the windows in plastic wrap i the middle of winter to eliminate any draft...none of these tactics did the previous owner do.  

If the peanut butter or jelly jar is brand new, and has an inner seal under the plastic lid, and the directions don't mention the seal, either stab the knife through the seal, or just tap the end of the knife against the seal and look confused. 

We have a shower only, and it has the plastic insert, so are still debating whether to tile it, or leave it as is.