Fill the can with redi-mix concrete and put in the stick.

You're obviously a very savvy business person and it's great to get the whole story (entertainingly told, I might add) rather than a polished up version of "woo-hoo, look at this cash-on cash return!"

I've built a few fences before and durability wise I've always used screws instead of nails,used treated 4x4, and 2x4, make sure 2 bys are standing up and overlapping 4 bys make sure to tell contractor too premix cement before pouring in hole ive seen guys put water in hole then pour dry concrete and procede to try to mix it normaly I go about 2 feet deep hole and they last pretty good did 300 feet 2 years ago still looking good

Even if in the city people would like some outside space to remind them of the burbs with clean grass and fresh air etc.The concrete stairs are literally falling apart in front.

There is the tile, then about an 1"-1.5" of concrete that is held up and together by a very sharp metal mesh.

Plus I surmised that a couple of their polishers/cutters work off the books for cash.After a few meetings I discovered the owner is into flipping homes to make extra money!!! 

:I think it's worth mentioning that you can put tile over plywood but it might not hold up as well and I would use polymer-modified thinset instead of regular thinsetI also skip underlayment on laminates that don't have underpad attached because I don't see much added value in the underlayment If you are laying tile over plywood, or any subfloor other than concrete, you want to first make certain your subfloor is stable - no vertical deflection - and then use an uncoupling membrane (ditra, protegga, old-fashioned felt & wire {if you have the skill, but the newer membrane products are better}, etc) to absorb any remaining movement in your subfloor.

Concrete that is to support a load will have a footer or beam that extends down into the earth up to a few feet.

Nail polish remover 

I just used bleach on the concrete floor and maybe pinesol...no primer/sealer.